Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[Natedog]

I want to paint part of my body flat black on the outside any recommendations? Brush is ok, but spray paint would be better, I've been reading around and Tamiya PS-55 is flat clear, but my RTR bodies are already painted red inside. I've done outside paint on lexan bodies before and like it, but want the black to be more flat than Duratrax or Tamiya lexan paint. Maybe Krylon Fusion in flat black?

Camouflage Paint made with Fusion for Plastic® Technology
This ultra-flat paint is non-reflective to provide the ultimate camouflage.
Bonds to most plastics, PVC, hard vinyl, ceramic glass, wood, metal and wicker
No sanding, no priming; ultra-flat, non-reflective colors
Ideal for sporting and hunting equipment, decoys and more. Not for use on skin, hair or clothing
Fully chip resistant in 7 days
DRY TO TOUCH:
15 minutes or less
DRY TO HANDLE:
After 1 hour
FOR USE ON
Wood, Metal, Wicker, Wrought Iron, Plastic, Hard Vinyl, Glass, Plaster, Ceramic, Paper, Paper Mache

http://www.krylon.com/products/camouflage-paint-made-with-fusion-for-plastic-technology/

 

[Itali83]

I just painted mine flat black. I used all automotive paint though. I started with Martin senior gray etching primer, then with the flat black paint. I scuffed the shell with scotchbrite pads and then painted away. Haven't hit the trails yet to see how well the paint holds up but I didn't care really. I had the paint and was being cheap. I did flex the body by hand and it's not flaking off so I think it'll be just fine. Not much help but my 2 cents. I really like how it came out and I do like the painted windows on the inside for contrast.
Ben

 

[CODYBOY]

Hey Nate, what I do is paint the color I want inside or outside and then clear with a matt finish clear on the out side. Worked pretty good on a rat rod I did. I sprayed a rust color primer on the inside and the clear on the outside."thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Painted with enamels and ready to bake. I sprayed the silver Plastikote 600F engine enamel and brushed the Testors red enamel, next time I'd just free-hand brush it all, way less time and looks just as good. Re-purposed some old wire garden fence as paint rack.

 

[northernerbill]

I do like those rotors and nice job on them mate!!

I've painted nearly every lexan shell I've had on the outside. I always use automotive paint and always use their plastic primer first.
Our biggest store chain in the UK do those flat camouflage colours but again I'd recommend plastic primer first as it will eat into and bond properly. Just be sure to key the surface well too.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Painted with enamels and ready to bake. I sprayed the silver Plastikote 600F engine enamel and brushed the Testors red enamel, next time I'd just free-hand brush it all, way less time and looks just as good. Re-purposed some old wire garden fence as paint rack.

The brakes look incredible! Now I need to paint mine.

How are you going to mount the rear brake discs?

 

[Natedog]

I do like those rotors and nice job on them mate!!

I've painted nearly every lexan shell I've had on the outside. I always use automotive paint and always use their plastic primer first.
Our biggest store chain in the UK do those flat camouflage colours but again I'd recommend plastic primer first as it will eat into and bond properly. Just be sure to key the surface well too.

Thanks, I can't wait to get them mounted!

The brakes look incredible! Now I need to paint mine.

How are you going to mount the rear brake discs?

Thanks, yes you do.

To the Vaterra aluminum knuckles up front and rear aluminum lockouts. Front set will go with brake calipers on the front side....I think the rear go the same way, been looking at pics online. The Vaterra aluminum rear lockouts are both the same, there is no left and right specific pieces. The stock plastic composite c-hubs and rear lockouts were still very nicely snug fitting even after much use and abuse! The Vaterra aluminum pieces were even tighter fitting...very nice! "thumbsup"

 

[Asuckaphish]

I painted the outside of my stock RTR body with Tamiya black. It came out pretty flat and is pretty durable boot. It will eventually wear through if your rough on the truck but it doesn't flake off. I would've liked a little more flat. I've heard Testors used to make a backing black that comes out nice and flat but it does not appear to be available anymore.

This is what it looked like after four coats

Here is what it looks like after a lot of running and constant abuse.

 

[Natedog]

Did you use Tamiya spray or brush black paint? Pics not showing up...

 

[TLR_junkie]

Looking good natedog, I may or may not be dropping in a 15t today...

 

[Asuckaphish]

Not sure why the pics don't show up. Show up on my end.

Anyway I used the Tamiya spray. Don't recall the exact number but it was pretty much their standard black. I can get it later today when i'm at home.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Thanks, yes you do.

To the Vaterra aluminum knuckles up front and rear aluminum lockouts. Front set will go with brake calipers on the front side....I think the rear go the same way, been looking at pics online. The Vaterra aluminum rear lockouts are both the same, there is no left and right specific pieces. The stock plastic composite c-hubs and rear lockouts were still very nicely snug fitting even after much use and abuse! The Vaterra aluminum pieces were even tighter fitting...very nice! "thumbsup"

Oh so the aluminum rear lockouts have provisions for the disc brakes? I didn't know that.

Did you see Vaterra's servo horns? They look very thin which might alleviate some of the clearance issues betwen the servo horn and the tierod.

 

[Natedog]

Looking good natedog, I may or may not be dropping in a 15t today...

Thanks, cool but might be too low turns for long motor life.

Not sure why the pics don't show up. Show up on my end.
Don't recall the exact number but it was pretty much their standard black. I can get it later today when i'm at home.

Hmmm, I don't even see a link. Copy and paste the IMG to here.

Oh so the aluminum rear lockouts have provisions for the disc brakes? I didn't know that.

Did you see Vaterra's servo horns? They look very thin which might alleviate some of the clearance issues betwen the servo horn and the tierod.

Yes, they have two drilled and tapped holes on each lockout, so that the brake rotor weights can be clocked to line up properly on both sides of the truck.

Yes, thanks I saw those but they don't look as low profile as the Dynamite arm I'm using and the Hudy that I have is definitely offset the opposite direct and farthest out hole is slightly longer too. "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Four wheel disk brakes painted and installed with new Vaterra machined aluminum rear lock-outs, c-hubs, and knuckles, all very high quality parts! I used all new AvidRC rubber sealed bearings, the old bearings were getting gritty from lots of dirt and water crossings. Used a new set of four little steel 'hats' for the knuckle pivots screws, the original were pretty good only couple thousandths worn (still fit better than most other brands new parts) but I had new, so use them with the new aluminum parts. The rear lockouts and front C-hubs fit so snugly that I lightly greased the outer ends of the axle housings before installation.






Brakes peaking out through the Wagon Wheels. ;-)












My scratch-built Hi-Lift jack/hood pin! Sill need to install and trim little bolt in top of jack.




I've been playing with the Vaterra machined aluminum battery tray pivots and they are made to be used without the nerfbars and mounts. They are designed to bolt to the two frame rail holes that secure the front of the tranny skidplate and nerfbar mounts. I'm thinking use one existing hole per side in the rear and drill another hole or maybe drill all new frame mounting holes.

 

[Itali83]

Mmmmmmmm, those aluminum parts plus brake rotors sure look nice! Not making it easy for me to hold off buying some myself. I like the jack/body clip disguise. Let us know if you notice any adverse effects with it because of weight up high. Even though it's probably not heavy and you just added weight down low with brakes and aluminum bits. I'm just so conscious of the weight thing now.
Ben

 

[Natedog]

Thanks, the aluminum parts are very nice and worthy of the price. Thanks, jack weighs very little, it's hollow styrene tube for the handle and then it's got holes in it for the jacking mechanism where the pins move in and out as it goes up and down, pretty light. IIRC all the window stickers were about 8 grams total and the added weight of aluminum parts and brake rotors more than makes up for it.

 

[pete959]

Looking good buddy

LIFE IS GOOD

 

[CODYBOY]

Looks good Nate, you know I don't think you have near enough scratches on those sliders. We need to decide on a size for your next set!"thumbsup"
Ernie,

 

[Natedog]

Thanks, always working on it and they are working awesome! Yes, we do.

 

[Natedog]

I see this truck around fairly often and it's super sweet, clean build, this is a body Vaterra needs to release in 12.3"wb for us! Dana 60 front axle and iirc rear too, Cummins Turbo Diesel swap, 3-4" lift, 35x12.50x17" tires on black spoke steelies. "thumbsup"



Icing on the cake