Natedog's Vaterra ASCENDER

[Natedog]

I've replaced the stock HiTec phillips servo arm retentions screw with 2.6x8mm cap screw and tiny washer with loctite.

Note at full left lock steering (tires gently rubbing lower links) the tie-rod can get blocked by the drag link ball end on the servo horn. I have not found any way around this, therefore it's beneficial to run a skinny tie-rod so that it clears better and it can slightly and gently flex to get past this point when travelling up or down in the suspension travel. I've never noticed anytime when it got locked with suspension compressed that it didn't flex slightly and travel past each other. This servo horn I'm using raises the draglink up (closer to the servo) by about 3 - 4mm than the thick stock plastic horn, allowing a little more suspensioin up travel (good), but does allow for this linkage rubbing to get closer than stock.

I'm going to look at my collection of steel links (skinny but strong steel) to see if something will work...iirc Billinvic used one for his tie-rod. Thing is I like the stock steering linkage, it just works well and keeps everything away from the tires inner sidewall. Might be able to run stock linkage and just replace the aluminum rod with adjustable steel linkage rod with Vaterra plastic end links. I have a slightly longer Hudy servo arm (super sweet piece of machining) and it will raise the draglink even little closer to the servo than my current setup. I think the slightly longer arm and the more clearance will be good. this setup as pictured ran at Bald Rock comp no problems at all!

 

[CODYBOY]

I've replaced the stock HiTec phillips servo arm retentions screw with 2.6x8mm cap screw and tiny washer with loctite.

Note at full left lock steering (tires gently rubbing lower links) the tie-rod can get blocked by the drag link ball end on the servo horn. I have not found any way around this, therefore it's beneficial to run a skinny tie-rod so that it clears better and it can slightly and gently flex to get past this point when travelling up or down in the suspension travel. I've never noticed anytime when it got locked with suspension compressed that it didn't flex slightly and travel past each other. This servo horn I'm using raises the draglink up (closer to the servo) by about 3 - 4mm than the thick stock plastic horn, allowing a little more suspensioin up travel (good), but does allow for this linkage rubbing to get closer than stock.

I'm going to look at my collection of T-Maxx and Revo links (skinny but strong steel) to see if something will work...iirc Billinvic used one for his tie-rod. Thing is I like the stock steering linkage, it just works well and keeps everything away from the tires inner sidewall. Might be able to run stock linkage and just replace the aluminum rod with TMaxx or Revo steel linkage rod with Vaterra plastic end links. I have a slightly longer Hudy servo arm (super sweet piece of machining) and it will raise the draglink even little closer to the servo than my current setup. I think the slightly longer arm and the more clearance will be good. this setup as pictured ran at Bald Rock comp no problems at all!

Sent you a text, bet I could help you out with something!"thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Replied and thanks! 8)

 

[CODYBOY]

Your titanium tie-rod is in the mail. Just passing it forward. And I know you will do the same."thumbsup"
Ernie,

 

[Natedog]

Hey Ernie,
Dang you're fast, thanks and you know I will!
Nate

 

[Natedog]

Bought set of lower shock springs, soft, medium and hard for testing. Styrene ready for paint...




Masked off and painted inside of body shells to keep the light from showing through.






Some other paint work, still need to touch up in the little holes and couple crevices with a tiny paint brush.






Codyboy Lunsford TiTiRod installed and clearance checked! No more problems with tie-rod to servo horn and drag link ball stud interference and a tiny bit more up-travel before touching the servo horn. Thanks Ernie!
~Nate

 

[Natedog]

Here's how I measure up linkage rods to get as close to same eye to eye length settings as possible, or if I want it to be slightly longer or shorter than the existing link.

"Old" stock link goes on hex wrenches first (closest to the handles), these RD Logics wrenches are very close fit through the end link balls. "New" Codyboy Lunsford TiTiRod link goes on top, then stand the wrenches on nice flat level table as shown, gently move the wrench handles in and away from each other while carefully watching the ends (it's like a parallellogram) and the slight angle offset back and forth should be the same if you want the links to be exact eye to eye length. If you want new link a bit longer, then the wrench tips should be able to move away from each other a tiny bit more than they can move towards each other. I've tried several methods including trying to sight and measure links and this has proved to be the quickest and most accurate for me.

 

[Itali83]

Nice to see some more work being done. Was missing the new additions to the truck with photos and write ups. I know how it is though, mine just does what I want and it just works, no need to change anything. I keep wanting to spend money on upgrades but can't justify them yet really. I am doing another body though since I got another blazer body in trade so I'm playing around with that. Keep up the good work.

I am ready to upgrade my suspension links though. What are your thoughts. The vaterra links like you have or the titanium ssd ones which are cheaper too. I would think that the titanium will slide better since it's a harder metal than aluminum but figured I'd ask your opinion. Thanks!
Ben

 

[CODYBOY]

Here's how I measure up linkage rods to get as close to same eye to eye length settings as possible, or if I want it to be slightly longer or shorter than the existing link.

"Old" stock link goes on hex wrenches first (closest to the handles), these RD Logics wrenches are very close fit through the end link balls. "New" Codyboy TiTiRod link goes on top, then stand the wrenches on nice flat level table as shown, gently move the wrench handles in and away from each other while carefully watching the ends (it's like a parallellogram) and the slight angle offset back and forth should be the same if you want the links to be exact eye to eye length. If you want new link a bit longer, then the wrench tips should be able to move away from each other a tiny bit more than they can move towards each other. I've tried several methods including trying to sight and measure links and this has proved to be the quickest and most accurate for me.

Same way I do it Nate, I agree, best I've found!"thumbsup"

 

[Power to Satisfy]

Like the measuring tip Nate. Usually use calipers for stuff like that but that is a great idea for when no measuring devices are around. Most of us have and extra tool sitting close by which would work perfect like this. Thanks for the great tip.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Natedog]

Nice to see some more work being done. Was missing the new additions to the truck with photos and write ups. I know how it is though, mine just does what I want and it just works, no need to change anything. I keep wanting to spend money on upgrades but can't justify them yet really. I am doing another body though since I got another blazer body in trade so I'm playing around with that. Keep up the good work.

I am ready to upgrade my suspension links though. What are your thoughts. The vaterra links like you have or the titanium ssd ones which are cheaper too. I would think that the titanium will slide better since it's a harder metal than aluminum but figured I'd ask your opinion. Thanks!
Ben

Thanks, yeah the Ascender has most of the mods/upgrades in the box and once the TT is addressed it just flat out works...and goes like the Energizer bunny without much if any breakage. "thumbsup" I just got some upgrades to install, so I'm going to be busy with it again. Oooh another body, I'm looking forward to see what you do with it! I've got some body mods coming soon too.

The Vaterra HD machined aluminum links are very stout pieces especially the way the plastic rod ends are recessed into the machined pocket at both ends making it highly unlikely that the ends or the 3mm setscrews that attach them ever get bent. "thumbsup" The SSD titanium linkage rods are very nice too (prolly slightly lighter weight), should slide over rocks a little easier than aluminum, but I've never got stuck due to the aluminum links on my truck. You could do Vaterra HD lowers and SSD upper links...or SSD upper and lower...kinda a personal choice. "thumbsup"

Same way I do it Nate, I agree, best I've found!"thumbsup"

Like the measuring tip Nate. Usually use calipers for stuff like that but that is a great idea for when no measuring devices are around. Most of us have and extra tool sitting close by which would work perfect like this. Thanks for the great tip.

I've used rulers and calipers measured to end of rod, plastic rod end to rod end, and using two wrenches like this eye to eye is the most accurate. "thumbsup"

 

[pete959]

The Vaterra HD machined aluminum links are very stout pieces especially the way the plastic rod ends are recessed into the machined pocket at both ends making it highly unlikely that the ends or the 3mm setscrews that attach them ever get bent. "thumbsup" The SSD titanium linkage rods are very nice too (prolly slightly lighter weight), should slide over rocks a little easier than aluminum, but I've never got stuck due to the aluminum links on my truck. You could do Vaterra HD lowers and SSD upper links...or SSD upper and lower...kinda a personal choice.

I have ssd links on all my trucks atm i love them but if the links r like the knuckles then it will be a great product to

LIFE IS GOOD

 

[Natedog]

More parts showed up, I've never painted brass, what's the best prep and paint to use on the brass brake rotor weights? I have all new bearings for the knuckles, rear carriers and tranny build. Going to build one of my Ascender kit trannies as 2-speed and swap it out with the Single Speed tranny that I've been running. Got a pair of aluminum battery tray pivot brackets that I'm going to try using as RULRs in the rear.




1-speed to the 2-speed!!!!!!! I was tired when I ordered and ended up with 3mm E-clips, think I have a pack of HPI 2.5mm E-clips in my box...checking... :ror: I got more 2.5mm locknuts and shims than I need for a couple tranny builds, but they are good to have around. Also have another 2-speed shift linkage pack on the way. Also ordered couple sets of the hardened steel tranny gears that I'm waiting on.

 

[NTA_Shawn]

What is the advantage(s) of having the 2speed? Besides being able to run fast?
I've been eyeing up the conversion, but really don't need to go fast with my Ascender as I have an Associated B4.2 dirt oval car that handles my need for speed.

 

[Natedog]

Ability to gear first down a little more for better low speed control and second gear for the steep loose climbs where you need tire speed to make it up and over.

I have shortcourse 4x4 truck brushless for speed fun.

 

[pete959]

Cant wait for rulr do that mod first

LIFE IS GOOD

 

[Itali83]

Cant wait for rulr do that mod first

LIFE IS GOOD

Check out my build. I just recently did mine and wrote about it. Helps with pinion angle but didn't notice much else. I bought them for pinion angle so I'm happy with them.
Ben

 

[CODYBOY]

Nice load of goodies Nate! On your brake rotors, probably any paint made for metals. Clean with paint thinner and paint. They are tucked away behind your wheels and not a rotating part, so most any paint would probably work.
I stopped on the way home from Medford at the Cottage Grove track and talked with Kelly Lunsford about the 1/8th scale links, and should have some later in the week. They are measured from end to end so that is the measurement I need."thumbsup"
Ernie,

 

[new2rocks]

Great job on the hi lift, Nate. We'll make a scale guru out of you yet...

 

[Natedog]

Cant wait for rulr do that mod first

8) Lots of work to do, did a bunch, need to take pics, bunch more to go. I didn't get to the RULRs yet.

Check out my build. I just recently did mine and wrote about it. Helps with pinion angle but didn't notice much else. I bought them for pinion angle so I'm happy with them.
Ben

Ben,
Thanks for the info, yours is a good build thread too. "thumbsup"
Nate

Nice load of goodies Nate! On your brake rotors, probably any paint made for metals. Clean with paint thinner and paint. They are tucked away behind your wheels and not a rotating part, so most any paint would probably work.
I stopped on the way home from Medford at the Cottage Grove track and talked with Kelly Lunsford about the 1/8th scale links, and should have some later in the week. They are measured from end to end so that is the measurement I need."thumbsup"
Ernie,

Ernie,
Doh, I was too into details looking at all the new parts thinking about the paints I bought for my styrene HiLift jack and Blazer grill detailing lol. Dug through all my spray cans and found a good Plastikote High Temp. Third coat on yesterday and going to bake the paint on today. Then I paint the calipers, bake again and install. Nice trip, thanks for follow up, I'll measure and let you know! "thumbsup"
Nate

Great job on the hi lift, Nate. We'll make a scale guru out of you yet...

Thanks, it's easier than it looks! I followed yours and others styrene threads here for awhile, searched the web, printed some pics I liked, sketched a rough drawing with key measurements. Then I bought a bunch of different plastic, shapes and thickness, glue, paint and started gluing it all together. It went through about 10 revisions along the way as I thought of better ways to do and more detail to add, like the 'teeth' on the part where it lifts. Paint is not quite as bright as it looks in pics, really wanted more of a brick red like my real jack, but it's good for now and easy to re-paint. It was lots of fun and took way more hours than it should have, but hey it was fun! "thumbsup"
Thanks, Nate