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My Two Optics
- Thread starter Col_Sanders
- Start date
Yes i thought it was a machined link as well. Im assuming they did it this way due to tolerances with the threads. A tiny shim can make a big difference on how things line up. I wonder how plastic rod ends would do.
Hopefully Vanquish comes up with something better. Maybe something like Htech but with adjustable tension like their rod ends.
This was my fear with those links. Seems most designs will need jam nuts. I was planning on making my own.
truublue
Newbie
Big respect on the scratch build!
I'm doing something similar at this point with all the extras I have from my RTR build. ended up with enough stuff for a fully "off-the-shelf" build
Rough list below. I don't even want to think about how much this rig is ending up costing. luckily i got the vast majority of this stuff on black friday sales / used rewards at various retailers
your thread is providing some motivation to finally get this thing together haha.
I don't even know if ill have space for the transmission servos and the 4ws but we will see!
I'm doing something similar at this point with all the extras I have from my RTR build. ended up with enough stuff for a fully "off-the-shelf" build
Rough list below. I don't even want to think about how much this rig is ending up costing. luckily i got the vast majority of this stuff on black friday sales / used rewards at various retailers
- furitek cage
- vfd twin
- spektrum firma 2in1
- 4WS with VP clear anodized axles front and back
- fully built VP s8e shocks or dravtechs (haven't decided yet)
- shiftrcs gt3s or nsrdc 700v2 in the front, nsdrc 650 down back
- 2x nsdrc rs100m
- incision driveshafts
- VP limited matte red methods
- hardcore high clearance ti links
- cliff mcrawl panels
your thread is providing some motivation to finally get this thing together haha.
I don't even know if ill have space for the transmission servos and the 4ws but we will see!
89Industries
Quarry Creeper
Stick a compliant washer or o-ring between the spacer and rod end. Center spacer is pretty worthless for anything other than looks.
The plastic rod ends are pretty much a nylock nut and aren't going to turn or self adjust under driving conditions. So they don't need to be jam nutted or firmly up against the center spacer.
On the tie rod steering links on my ifs2 VW I just cut some plastic tubing to length. Then when you tighten the rod and down, the plastic tube is compliant enough to allow you to get both ends aligned properly. Then I switched the plastic tube for some black plastic derailleur housing end caps that I turned into plastic tubes. Then used a washer to get everything length adjusted and tightened so no rattling parts.
An o-ring would do the same. Even a 1mm thick plastic washer would do that for aluminum rod ends.
I bet with plastic rod ends, the plastic itself can deform enough you might not even need a compliant member. Or you might have to shave them a bit with an xacto knife to then align them the last 1/4 turn at worst.
But I do agree that just buying some long m4 set screws and spacers and doing it yourself is likely better than buying the rod and spacer as a packaged product.
The plastic rod ends are pretty much a nylock nut and aren't going to turn or self adjust under driving conditions. So they don't need to be jam nutted or firmly up against the center spacer.
On the tie rod steering links on my ifs2 VW I just cut some plastic tubing to length. Then when you tighten the rod and down, the plastic tube is compliant enough to allow you to get both ends aligned properly. Then I switched the plastic tube for some black plastic derailleur housing end caps that I turned into plastic tubes. Then used a washer to get everything length adjusted and tightened so no rattling parts.
An o-ring would do the same. Even a 1mm thick plastic washer would do that for aluminum rod ends.
I bet with plastic rod ends, the plastic itself can deform enough you might not even need a compliant member. Or you might have to shave them a bit with an xacto knife to then align them the last 1/4 turn at worst.
But I do agree that just buying some long m4 set screws and spacers and doing it yourself is likely better than buying the rod and spacer as a packaged product.
A black plastic spacer would be better since it would give a little. It just would not look as bling. If I were doing it again, that would be the route I went. The link/set screw is 25mm and the spacer is 8mm if anyone is interested in making their own.
Good info, thanks!
svt923
I wanna be Dave
I assumed the spacer was going to be some weird, custom size, not a plain, old 8mm. You can get those from McMaster for $2/piece and probably under $1/piece if you willing to wait for some generic version to be shipped from China.
VP has a link that other are using. its the short link that comes in the 2 link pack for the Shfit linkages on the VFD Twin I think it is.
But you have to buy 2 packs to get 2 short links, or 4 for 4WS rigs. be nice to see them drop a pair of those with Rod ends and just sell them as an upgrade package.
That's one way. I would have had to buy 6 kits though since I'm doing a a 4ws and a normal 2ws.
Yes, but that link doesn't appear to fit perfectly either. I've seen spacers, spacers, lock nuts, etc. used with those shift links.
When I measured the stock plastic ends and the vp metal ends and did the math, it worked out at 8.17mm width needed between the 2 rod ends to be equal length to the stock plastic ones. The post I made should on the Incoming H10 thread.
May as well put these fancy scales to work and get a baseline. This is my son's rig ready to go with a 2200 mah 3s pack. For the TLDR crowd, this is a kit with lightweight trans gears, fusion se, 35kg Amazon servo, Chanquish Methods, 5.25 TSLs with Injora silicone inserts.
Fairly balanced left to right. A little weight up front will get to the 60/40. Might just start with a brass servo mount.
Fairly balanced left to right. A little weight up front will get to the 60/40. Might just start with a brass servo mount.
I have one of those scales and it is less than accurate. You can't really make repeatable measurements. It varies based on how you set the vehicle down and if one shocks is compressed more than the other it throws everything off. I don't know how to rectify that.
I'm guessing mine is biased way up front then with the standard weight gears and the Treal knuckles. Like I said on my post, maybe too much weight up front...
Mine is pretty consistent as long as you center the tires on the scales. My buddy's was way off. He had to buy a $25 1000 gram weight to calibrate it.
Never heard that and it doesnt make sense to me. Id think you want to know the weight the way youre gonna run it. Unless you did with shocks connected then disconnected? Might help with preload adjustments?
Honestly, I'm not that serious about it. Not like i am going to be removing screws from one side to subtract a couple grams for a perfect balance. I use it as a tuning tool for bigger changes like where to put batteries, electronics, etc.
Honestly, I'm not that serious about it. Not like i am going to be removing screws from one side to subtract a couple grams for a perfect balance. I use it as a tuning tool for bigger changes like where to put batteries, electronics, etc.
You wouldn't take the shocks off, just disconnect one end so the weight is there but the shock isn't functional. This allows the sprung weight to position itself based on where the springs put it. Then the corner weights can be adjusted to one's liking without the residual damping from the shocks possibly altering the ride height and thus affecting the corner weight measurements. But I have to admit that this seems a bit extreme for a 1/10 scale rock crawler. It was important for me back in the day when I was doing SCCA Solo II.
