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mir4dor's Hilux (exploring that styreen thing)

Yes it's a two-component filler Pantablo. Thank you for the write-up man, very helpful "thumbsup"
I will try to use your method with adding more styreen and then sand it down, sounds logical now I think of it.

So the "Tenax 7R or Plastruct Bondene" is different than normal CA that I'm using ? I found that only using CA isn't always strong enough, when I bolted my dropped bed to the chassis to tight, the floor came loose from the sidewalls of the bed with a snapping sound :-( [EDIT] seems I just found the answer on scale4x4 ... I just have to find that Tenax 7R.

Sorry my dutch is a bit rusty. I reliezed afterward what i said didnt make sense. What I was trying to say was Good work. Your work is outstanding, keep it up"thumbsup"

No problem man ! I like how you tried to speak Dutch "thumbsup" My English is more rusty than your Dutch is I guess :lol:

I like it a lot and hopefully i will get to drive it when it's finished.8)

You will my friend, I'm planning to take it with me on our GTG next sunday for a little testdrive 8)

This is a work of are. I will be watching this one close for updates. Keep up the inspiration for the rest of us.

Thanks man ! No updates at this point but when I have I'll post it ...
 
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So the "Tenax 7R or Plastruct Bondene" is different than normal CA that I'm using ? I found that only using CA isn't always strong enough, when I bolted my dropped bed to the chassis to tight, the floor came loose from the sidewalls of the bed with a snapping sound :-( [EDIT] seems I just found the answer on scale4x4 ... I just have to find that Tenax 7R.

got your answer...good. they are vastly different to CA.
 
Tiny little update here.

Tonight I seperated the floor from the bed in order to align it properly to the cab.

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This operation just convinced me that normal CA is not the ticket to glue styreen, not bomb-proof really. At some spots I could just break the floor from the side walls, other spots where I used some thinner styreen (fenderwells) I had to cut in order to seperate ... It just took me some 3 mins. to seperate, that's not bomb-proof is it :mrgreen:


Still trying to find that Tenax 7R. Tower doesn't ship that. Found it on the bay but they didn't respond to my e-mail just yet :-(

Is there anyone that can help me out or is it illegal to ship it to europe ?
 
Thanks for the reply's guy's "thumbsup"

The Tenax is here so I'm learning to work with it. Pretty amazing stuff but you just have to allign things precisely to get it to work.

Like I said: I'm a slow builder but this thing is a roller and I can't stand the temptation to drive it.
It happened to be that a 1/2 hour drive RC-club managed to build a serious rockcrawling course, great for testing and driving this one "thumbsup"

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As you can see the RC4WD Flashpoints are mounted, man, those work as aspected ! Great compound and so great bite on those rocks !

Too bad something has to die when you're riding an unfinished rig, I stripped the spur on the GD-600 last sunday:

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At this point I just leave the GD-600 and only running the 4:1 RC4WD GRU, more wheelspeed, that's for sure :twisted:

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I sleaved the motor-shaft with some 3x4mm brass tubing to fit the traxxas yoke and hope that it will survive, testdrive tomorrow. Are there more common ways to convert a 3mm shaft to a Traxxas 4mm yoke ?
 
Great work on the cab "thumbsup" looking forward to seeing more updates.
 
Like I said in the SP: I'm a slow builder but I did make some (minor) progress.

GD-600 is out because I stripped too much spurs on that. R2 is back in. Together with the killer-TC it's al metal gears now, can't beat that "thumbsup"
Also I changed the Tekin Rebel2 into the FXR-Pro: dragbrake is so cool !!
The rig has proven it's abbility for sure so it's for the looks for now ...

Thanks to Pantablo's howto on the tube I now know how to use styreen & solvents like Tenax. Lately, it's so good, I'm high on Tenax 7R all the time :twisted:

I had the doors cut out and didn't knew what to do with 'm yet. Now I just tought about doing some "inner-door-thingies", (how would you name that ? door opener, arm-rest, window-opener etc.)
Anyways:

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My inspiration:

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While I was at this I tought of making a real opening door on this build. This is not easy by any means. It can not be done by just a hinge, the hinge has to slide when the door is opening I had discovered ?

Far from done but here it is right now:

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It's difficault for me to tell you exactly how it works but the hinge I made is turning and sliding, the door can be opened and closed by hand. Well, it doesn't stay closed so I had to come up with a spring that pulls the door to the cab ... (?)

I tried to hide a spring between the door and the inner door by using a 2.5mm styreen rod that holds the spring. This is before I let the Tenax flow ...

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As always I hope to update soon. If everything fails on the working door I throw it in the bed for future restoration :mrgreen:

Thanks for looking ...
 
Thanks ! I'm far from done but it's so much fun to work on it :mrgreen:

I have to tweak it here and there but it's a start:

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