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Micro Mod bible
- Thread starter BEELZEBOB
- Start date
Fungi
RCC Addict
It's actually based on the Micro Eclipse by Ripper777. I made some changes to the original design, which has some problems, and cut it out on my laser. I contacted the owner of the company, but he apparently has no interest in constructive feedback from his customers.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=299389
whiplash
Quarry Creeper
one mod...
If you're looking to make your crawler crawl well and dont want to dump a bunch of cash into it I have an idea for ya!. All the mods on this rig are free and just require a little time and basic stuff you most likely have around the house.
I do have RC4WD tires on it but thats the only aftermarket part on it.
I bent the TVP plates 90 degrees to inboard the shocks and WOW..it crawls! Way better than the stock set up.
The rest of the mods are quite common like de cased ESC relocated battery ( I run a 1s lipo 250mah heli pack) power switch removed, weight in the tires (bird shot) shaved axels, and slightly bent upper links that I just warmed up with a lighter bent them in a little for tire clearance.
the body is lowered by movint the posts down to the lower hole and I then ground down the ends of the post until I had a nice little hook to put on the small rubber band to secure the body.
I have 3 of these things one is modded a lot with BTA steering and a DP chassis and a bunch of aluminum stuff, the second has a lot of free mods and ext. links, trimmed chassis ect, and the one in the pics. Honestly the one pictured is usually the one I grab when I need a crawler fix because it does so well.
Good luck and Keep On Crawlin':mrgreen:
If you're looking to make your crawler crawl well and dont want to dump a bunch of cash into it I have an idea for ya!. All the mods on this rig are free and just require a little time and basic stuff you most likely have around the house.
I do have RC4WD tires on it but thats the only aftermarket part on it.
I bent the TVP plates 90 degrees to inboard the shocks and WOW..it crawls! Way better than the stock set up.
The rest of the mods are quite common like de cased ESC relocated battery ( I run a 1s lipo 250mah heli pack) power switch removed, weight in the tires (bird shot) shaved axels, and slightly bent upper links that I just warmed up with a lighter bent them in a little for tire clearance.
the body is lowered by movint the posts down to the lower hole and I then ground down the ends of the post until I had a nice little hook to put on the small rubber band to secure the body.
I have 3 of these things one is modded a lot with BTA steering and a DP chassis and a bunch of aluminum stuff, the second has a lot of free mods and ext. links, trimmed chassis ect, and the one in the pics. Honestly the one pictured is usually the one I grab when I need a crawler fix because it does so well.
Good luck and Keep On Crawlin':mrgreen:
warfish
Rock Stacker
How to get more travel from stock shocks
I was looking at a broken shock and I noticed that there was more room inside the shock housing than there was shaft length. So I decided to see if it was possible to take advantage of that fact and came up with this simple shock mod that extends the travel of stock shocks by 1/8".
Remove the end cap of the shock that has the screw, remove the spring, then grab the shaft with some pliers and the bottom cap will unscrew from the shaft. Now you can slide the shaft out the top of the long housing. Next step is to find some small paneling type nails that are a bit longer than the shaft (I do not have a size to provide, sorry) Now you just cut the nail to the proper length (about 3/16" longer than the stock shaft then grind down if needed), ream out the bottom hole of the shock housing if needed then slide the new shaft in place, glue end cap on bottom, screw top back on and done. The head of the nail will keep the shaft from sliding out of the housing. If you use all the extra space inside the housing you should now have 1/8" extra shock travel.
I have been using this in my rig for about 30 packs so far and love every bit of the result. The only problem is I might have a bit too much articulation now.
I was looking at a broken shock and I noticed that there was more room inside the shock housing than there was shaft length. So I decided to see if it was possible to take advantage of that fact and came up with this simple shock mod that extends the travel of stock shocks by 1/8".
Remove the end cap of the shock that has the screw, remove the spring, then grab the shaft with some pliers and the bottom cap will unscrew from the shaft. Now you can slide the shaft out the top of the long housing. Next step is to find some small paneling type nails that are a bit longer than the shaft (I do not have a size to provide, sorry) Now you just cut the nail to the proper length (about 3/16" longer than the stock shaft then grind down if needed), ream out the bottom hole of the shock housing if needed then slide the new shaft in place, glue end cap on bottom, screw top back on and done. The head of the nail will keep the shaft from sliding out of the housing. If you use all the extra space inside the housing you should now have 1/8" extra shock travel.
I have been using this in my rig for about 30 packs so far and love every bit of the result. The only problem is I might have a bit too much articulation now.
staylow
Newbie
BBs in your backside
Been through the mod bible a few times, did the basics like most on here. Mini DT rear springs wrapped around the shock, blue in back, red up front, removed servo saver ect... I have to say though, the one mod I didn't come across but was the first thing I did, was BBs stuffed into the back side of the wheel, no glue required. Just another way to add some more weight, if you're like me and glued the tires beyond removal after cutting foams and putting BBs inside.
Keep on modding, this little thing sees the basement rock course more than my leaf sprung 1.9 Pajero does. If it wasn't for the short run times and the motor, esc, getting rippin hot I wouldn't be able to stop.
So I've heard the Trekker tires are taller, and I'd be willing to try a tire that maybe had a little more bite on the dusty rock course, are they a direct bolt up to the Micro Crawler?
Been through the mod bible a few times, did the basics like most on here. Mini DT rear springs wrapped around the shock, blue in back, red up front, removed servo saver ect... I have to say though, the one mod I didn't come across but was the first thing I did, was BBs stuffed into the back side of the wheel, no glue required. Just another way to add some more weight, if you're like me and glued the tires beyond removal after cutting foams and putting BBs inside.
Keep on modding, this little thing sees the basement rock course more than my leaf sprung 1.9 Pajero does. If it wasn't for the short run times and the motor, esc, getting rippin hot I wouldn't be able to stop.
So I've heard the Trekker tires are taller, and I'd be willing to try a tire that maybe had a little more bite on the dusty rock course, are they a direct bolt up to the Micro Crawler?
i luv duct tape
Quarry Creeper
yes they are
crawler kid420
Newbie
sweet thanks for the tips gunna use some
bouncingbabyboy
Rock Stacker
What to buy and where
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=289074
Poor man's sticky, threat hijack... call it what you will.
If you posted sticky this thread and can delete please do. Let's clean up the what to buy and where thread.
"thumbsup"
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=289074
Poor man's sticky, threat hijack... call it what you will.
If you posted sticky this thread and can delete please do. Let's clean up the what to buy and where thread.
"thumbsup"
Hydro-Tank
RCC Addict
Just got my Trekker a while ago and I think this might be a good mod. I give all credit to Cobrawes.
Ok, so if you have a large lipo, the reciever may be in the way. I dont know all about how he did this, but I am going on my knowledge. So it looks like he took the insides of the reciever box and wraped it in electric tape. He then zip tied the reciver and battery to the tray underneath. Now every thing is all nice and compact and not in the way and the COG(center of gravity) is mostly in the middle.
Ok, so if you have a large lipo, the reciever may be in the way. I dont know all about how he did this, but I am going on my knowledge. So it looks like he took the insides of the reciever box and wraped it in electric tape. He then zip tied the reciver and battery to the tray underneath. Now every thing is all nice and compact and not in the way and the COG(center of gravity) is mostly in the middle.
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Midlife Crisis
Rock Crawler
For those running Eclipse Chassis'
I found a solution to upper rear link interference with the chassis. I used 2 of my Trekker's extended ball studs to space the links out on the axle mounts. Works pretty good and allows just a bit more articulation and the links no longer hang up on the bottom edge of the rear of my Eclipse.
I found a solution to upper rear link interference with the chassis. I used 2 of my Trekker's extended ball studs to space the links out on the axle mounts. Works pretty good and allows just a bit more articulation and the links no longer hang up on the bottom edge of the rear of my Eclipse.
Last edited:
rik
RCC Addict
free wheel widener mod. This is the DANALLY method. I think it should be included in here. Jeepkid just dug this one out of the archives.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270040&highlight=DANALLY
Here's my rig half way thru the process. front widened, rear stock.
(i quickly browsed thru the 9 pages in this thread and didn't see this listed. sorry, if it is already in here)
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270040&highlight=DANALLY
Here's my rig half way thru the process. front widened, rear stock.
(i quickly browsed thru the 9 pages in this thread and didn't see this listed. sorry, if it is already in here)
Cj7easternshore
Newbie
Hi Wiplash, I really like what you did there. since I have the battery tray gone already I bent the forward mounts in, but when I went to remove the ecs tray i found that it is used to separate the chassis plates - did you have to fab a new cross piece or does it work fine without that piece?
8695Beaters
Rock Crawler
-Lengthen wheel base using Mini-T suspension links.
-Then use Trail Trekker driveshafts to lengthen driveline to fit.
-Stack Gen-1 XMODS blue and red springs. Lowers ride height but are soft enough to completely compress.
-Li-Po!!!
-Rear Steer. You have to adjust your driving, but the added maneuverability is worth it.
-New rims and tires. I'm going with Miclaws and BWD's wheels, haven't got them yet, we'll see how they work.
-Then use Trail Trekker driveshafts to lengthen driveline to fit.
-Stack Gen-1 XMODS blue and red springs. Lowers ride height but are soft enough to completely compress.
-Li-Po!!!
-Rear Steer. You have to adjust your driving, but the added maneuverability is worth it.
-New rims and tires. I'm going with Miclaws and BWD's wheels, haven't got them yet, we'll see how they work.
Midlife Crisis
Rock Crawler
Don't forget the BWD widener kit, you wont be able to turn otherwise.
8695Beaters
Rock Crawler
Oh yeah, that's coming too. I need more track width anyway. If I pull a tight circle with the setup I have, I can pick up a tire and turn over.
Here's one I haven't seen mentioned before. I removed the bottom of the servo case, drilled a 1/8" hole in the center, removed the plug, routed the wires through the hole and replaced the plug. This centers the wire between the shocks and prevents the wire from effecting the suspension travel.
hay love this. i tried to do this on mine and also glue my servo saver but i wish i didn't because i have stuffed up the thing as it now the motor does not make contact withe the other gears.
instead of it doing what is suposed to do it just spins its pinion. i will post a pic if you want me to. thanks fungi for the idea of doing the servo mod. love it 
Link Ends
Alright guys, im new to te micro crawler world and im starting my micro scaler as we speak, but as i went to change everything over to the trekker chassis all the factory nuts for the brass link ends stripped out! Does anyone have any idea of what to use instead of these brass link ball ends? Any help is greatly appreciated! thanks for reading
Alright guys, im new to te micro crawler world and im starting my micro scaler as we speak, but as i went to change everything over to the trekker chassis all the factory nuts for the brass link ends stripped out! Does anyone have any idea of what to use instead of these brass link ball ends? Any help is greatly appreciated! thanks for reading
