johnnyh66
Scale Detail Engineering
If using the Mini T rod end mod: Drill a hole through each mini t plastic cup. This allows easy access to the .05 hex inside for adjustments and maintenance.
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Micro Mod bible
- Thread starter BEELZEBOB
- Start date
I didn't get the chance to read all the mods, so forgive me if anyone has done this.
I added the losi Mini T links, and did a bit of shuffling with the rear end. First where the links mount to the rear axle, instead of on the outside I put them on the inside, which naturally gives it a bit better twist. Trick of full size crawler suspensions.
This has the negative side effect of interfering with the shocks more than the links already do. So on the upper shock mounts, mount them to the outside instead of the stock inside locations. If you want pics let me know I'll take some. Makes the rear end flex ALOT better then just swapping in the mini t links alone.
I added the losi Mini T links, and did a bit of shuffling with the rear end. First where the links mount to the rear axle, instead of on the outside I put them on the inside, which naturally gives it a bit better twist. Trick of full size crawler suspensions.
This has the negative side effect of interfering with the shocks more than the links already do. So on the upper shock mounts, mount them to the outside instead of the stock inside locations. If you want pics let me know I'll take some. Makes the rear end flex ALOT better then just swapping in the mini t links alone.
Pics for those who need some more visual instruction!
Links- cut to whatever legnth you need to get the desired wheelbase:
Longer driveshaft- cut the plastic 'shaft in half, cut the aluminum tube to the desired legnth, superglue two halves into either end of the tube:
You can see the black plastic end just peeking out to the left:
Links- cut to whatever legnth you need to get the desired wheelbase:
Longer driveshaft- cut the plastic 'shaft in half, cut the aluminum tube to the desired legnth, superglue two halves into either end of the tube:
You can see the black plastic end just peeking out to the left:
BEELZEBOB
I wanna be Dave
Thank you jeff!!!
the pics are great for everyone.
Lets keep these pics coming in this thread.
it seems that a lot more people are buying the micro again, so help everyone help someone!
the pics are great for everyone.
Lets keep these pics coming in this thread.
it seems that a lot more people are buying the micro again, so help everyone help someone!
soild aluminum rod, 3m die, part# asc21387 18t2 ball cups, tubing bender from harbor freight $5.99 w/ degrees.
The formula to custom bent links and low cg weight.
ill post pics soon.
cut and bend alum rod to you specs, tap ends so you can thread ballcups on, 18t2 ballcups are hollow so use losi gold ballends so you can just use a allen key to remove links.
The formula to custom bent links and low cg weight.
ill post pics soon.
cut and bend alum rod to you specs, tap ends so you can thread ballcups on, 18t2 ballcups are hollow so use losi gold ballends so you can just use a allen key to remove links.
Fungi
RCC Addict
Servo wire mod...
Here's one I haven't seen mentioned before. I removed the bottom of the servo case, drilled a 1/8" hole in the center, removed the plug, routed the wires through the hole and replaced the plug. This centers the wire between the shocks and prevents the wire from effecting the suspension travel.
Here's one I haven't seen mentioned before. I removed the bottom of the servo case, drilled a 1/8" hole in the center, removed the plug, routed the wires through the hole and replaced the plug. This centers the wire between the shocks and prevents the wire from effecting the suspension travel.
nerwal
Newbie
everyone talks about wrapping coils of the spring around the top & bottom of the shock....
I must be stupid or something 'cause I can't for the life of me figure out how to do this!
Can someone describe it, step by step?
I must be stupid or something 'cause I can't for the life of me figure out how to do this!
Can someone describe it, step by step?
BEELZEBOB
I wanna be Dave
LOL
So like, @ the top and bottom of each spring, there are 2 coils, or a coil and a half, that are smashed together so people such as myself dont stab themselves with the end.
Now what you want to do, is find the end of the spring, or the tip, and seperate that a smidge from the next coil.
once you have found the tip, see if she will let you stick it in....
take the end of the spring and get it over the screw @ the top of the shock, and spin it 1 -2 times clockwise.
this will get the spring to wrap around the shock body, w the screw holding it in place.
for the bottom of the shock, just coil the spring around the lip of the spring retainer.
you will then have a lower ride height, a kinda 50/50 droop set up, and your shocks wont unload when you go verticle.
Here's one I haven't seen mentioned before. I removed the bottom of the servo case, drilled a 1/8" hole in the center, removed the plug, routed the wires through the hole and replaced the plug. This centers the wire between the shocks and prevents the wire from effecting the suspension travel.
this is a good one! will look to do this mod on mine! thx!
BeerInn
Newbie
How are you removing the tire foam? Do you cut the tire as close to the rim as possible or does something like guegone (mentioned earlier in the thread) disolve the tire glue enought to get the tires off without cutting/damaging?
I am a noob and picked up the micro 4x4 trekker a couple days ago ...a little nervous about pulling the tires from the rims to remove foam and add weights/bb's since my lhs doesn't have replacements in stock ...unless I get the kind that don't require glueing the tires ... are those worth spending the $ on?
Sorry if these are dumb questions ...any info is appreciated (or pointers to posts that I haven't found yet).
I am a noob and picked up the micro 4x4 trekker a couple days ago ...a little nervous about pulling the tires from the rims to remove foam and add weights/bb's since my lhs doesn't have replacements in stock ...unless I get the kind that don't require glueing the tires ... are those worth spending the $ on?
Sorry if these are dumb questions ...any info is appreciated (or pointers to posts that I haven't found yet).
StreetKill831
Quarry Creeper
Throw them in the fridge/freezer for an hour or two. When they come out just pull the tires. The glue becomes extremely brittle.
Beedlocks are definitely worth spending the money on, but if you do you should just get some new tires too.
9mm washers for wheel weights. 4 of them fit between rim and inner ring.
Remove an inner ring and take that wheel to ACE with you to size them up. 8 washers cost me $1.60. Cheap and easy whel wheights, and is tuneable.
Jrob
Quarry Creeper
Number one in my book,"thumbsup" washers inside and out on wheels" i removed the fake beadlock rings and hot glued the washers" this made the tires taller and a lil skinny. Also removed foams and wraped about 8" of plumbers soldier around the front wheels and 4" in the rears. i cut 4 coils of the springs for a droop setup,also used rubber bands as limit straps, this will not allow the shock to over extend helping climbs and decents. i used one long one and wraped it like a "U" shape over the chassis and to each side of you upperlinks on the axles. removed the Esc from plastic case and heat shrunk it and mouted on top of the stering servo which is a Hitec hs5056mg servo with a lil over 1 pound of steering torque, i also removed the battery tray from the top of the chassis. heated and custom bent stock lower links made them into hi clearance,REMove THE BODY POSTS!!! AND USED HIGH QUALITY VELCRO!!! no more getting hung up on the sides also i am using a micro t body. also filed the chassis and skid plate for more clearance. and i use a eflite blade sr120 1 cell lipo, i get about 30-45 min of run time great wheel speed and they cost 7 bucks!! my build was to see how capable i could get this truck with all the stock components and it is awsome!!! no lengthing cutting links drive lines nothing!!! i have 45$ in it after the purchase of the truck and that was mainly for the servo!! i will get some video and pics asap. it dominates the micro mountains and is a ton of fun"thumbsup"BeerInn
Newbie
StreetKill,
Thanks! That worked out well. I still used a new blade (exacto) and kinda just slid it along the rim...came off pretty easily with no damage to the tires!
Thanks again. I really appreciate it
(posting instead of PM'ing in case another noob sees this...might help them too ..I don't think the tires would have come off without using the knife)
Thanks! That worked out well. I still used a new blade (exacto) and kinda just slid it along the rim...came off pretty easily with no damage to the tires!
Thanks again. I really appreciate it
(posting instead of PM'ing in case another noob sees this...might help them too ..I don't think the tires would have come off without using the knife)
notez2beat
Pebble Pounder
Has anyone used this battery?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...cro-Heli-Airplane-25C-Battery-Pack-74V-240mAh
I have a Trail Trekker and was hoping it would fit on the rear axle. I tried measuring and it looks like it will be close.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...cro-Heli-Airplane-25C-Battery-Pack-74V-240mAh
I have a Trail Trekker and was hoping it would fit on the rear axle. I tried measuring and it looks like it will be close.
warfish
Rock Stacker
I have some batteries that are 22mm wide and they BARELY fit between the shocks of my micro crawler, I am not sure of the dimensions of the Trail Trekker though. I have a Thunder Power 7.4v/250mah pro lite v2 that is 21 mm wide and clears much better.
i luv duct tape
Quarry Creeper
pretty sure theyre the same size
warfish
Rock Stacker
There actually not the same size, the Thunder Power is 1 mm thinner and it does actually help with situating things.
It's the micro eclipse from Ripper777, do a search on here for eclipse to see some other rigs using that chassis.(thats one in my avatar) Its a great little setup. Here's a link to the site http://www.rcgearheads.com/rcg_site/index.php ."thumbsup"
