Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[BobTeagle]

Flexible plastic would cause the gears to bind and wear prematurely. The rear diff cover on my Baja Rey is actually quite stiff; I think the problem is simply that the bearings are too small to handle the load.

I'm content to use a plastic axle. It's lighter, so there's less unsprung weight, which means the rear suspension will actually do its job properly. It just needs larger bearings, that's all. Dlux Fab modifies stock AR60 axles to accept 5x13mm inner pinion bearings, and they work great; maybe we can talk them into doing the same with Baja Rey front diff cases and rear diff covers.

I see where you are coming from. I agree larger bearings would have to help. The rear end of the Rey would be an easy mod since that piece tha holds the bearings is so small.

But I have both the yeti rock racer kit and the yeti score kit. I used fast Eddy bearings from day one on both. I used the same motor / esc in both. I put a ton of aluminum into the rock racer which made It much heavier than my score. In the rock racer I used a boom racing alluminum rear axle which uses stock sized bearings and it's still going strong. On my Score I used the stock AR60 axle and it blew this same bearing three times. All this happened without any premature gear wear. I know this all happened with Axial not Losi, but the bearing size didn't matter. The same fast Eddy bearings held up on a heavier vehicle which took more stress but had the alloy axle to hold the bearing firmly in place.

Just explaining where my logic came from. I may be wrong, but that's what happened to me. The good news is the Losi is holding up much better as I have only blown one bearing. I too replaced mine with Boca ceramic bearings in the rear. That has worked so far

 

[CM9000]

Haven't looked, but is there enough material around the bearing for dlux to mod the housings for bigger bearings?

no. but I bet bushings and banana lube would be a moderate fix if you blow bearings out every other 2 runs.

ive only had the front and rear fail once. well the front slightly go loose enough for me to hear a crunch.

mine is still apart as im trying to source an older tekin 4300 non pro4

 

[CM9000]

keith... check your front ones. I bet they might wobble a bit on the shaft.

 

[BobTeagle]

keith... check your front ones. I bet they might wobble a bit on the shaft.

I plan to brother!
Won't be in town until next Wednesday, but tearing down the front end of the Rey is #1 on my Rc to do list..

 

[ser3100]

I dont think it would be that hard for an aftermarket vendor to fabricate a new 3rd member for the losi's rear axle with a larger diameter hole to fit a bigger bearing. Its basically 4 bolts that need to be removed in order to remove that piece and it really doesnt look like much to make it. I believe that would be a pretty good fix and relatively cheap compared to swapping out the whole entire axle. What do you guys think? I can see about finding a shop with a cnc machine around me or maybe even contacting metal concepts to see if they could do a one off piece. From what im getting from you guys thats the weak point in the rear axle as of now.

 

[CM9000]

hey! that's a good idea! id buy a third member! shzit.. even if its 50 bucks.

 

[shelby7]

No issues jumping my Rey at moderate or full throttle. I have added weight to the back fuel cell, the same amount as a spare tire weighs so it's like having two spares in the back, upped the shock oil to 45wt losi oil and adjusted ride height to about 40bump/60droop roughly. .

what do you think about using 60wt for the rear? and how important are the bump stops?

what is the 40bump/60 droop? how is this measured? droop=sag when setting still?

 

[ser3100]

Bad news. Metal concepts can't do the 3rd member as of now. He may in the future but because the yeti axle from him works on the Baja Rey he said that took care of the tiny bearing. I'm just not a fan of the narrower than stock version he put out. I'm holding out hope he either makes it wider or develops this pinion cover in aluminum. Onto the next vendor.......

 

[BobTeagle]

Bad news. Metal concepts can't do the 3rd member as of now. He may in the future but because the yeti axle from him works on the Baja Rey he said that took care of the tiny bearing. I'm just not a fan of the narrower than stock version he put out. I'm holding out hope he either makes it wider or develops this pinion cover in aluminum. Onto the next vendor.......

I would just use RC4wd axle extenders if that were the only issue with the Metal Concepts axle.

RC4WD Rear Wheel Adapters for 1 10 Axial Yeti Z S1604 | eBay


My biggest complaint about the metal concepts axle is that it uses the Axial ring and pinion which is not the correct ratio for the Baja Rey! That is going to cause issues with the center diff not having matching front to rear ratios!

 

[fyrstormer]

Any chance that the Baja Rey diff and pinion gear fit into the AR60 axle? I never thought to check.

MY problem with using an AR60 axle on the Baja Rey is that the linkage mounts aren't in the same positions, and so the AR60 axle will screw up the suspension geometry.

 

[fyrstormer]

Time to show off a couple mods I made:

1) I bought some extra bump-stops, cut one in half, and added each half to the rear shocks to increase the stock bump-stops' height by 50%. This helps keep the rear frame of the rollcage from smacking against the axle housing.

2) I bought a set of Traxxas 49mm camber links (part number 3643) to make adjustable steering links, then I added a bit of toe-out. The truck is more stable now, and easier to recover when it starts to traction-roll. I also bought a set of Dubro 3mm washers to use as shims to take up the extra space around the steering link ball-ends attached to the steering knuckles, because the ball-ends are not the same height as stock. They work fine once shimmed snug, though.

 

[rcbasser]

Which servo do you guys think is best for this truck? I'm assuming we don't need a super high torque servo like a rock racer/crawler does.

I put a Spectrum S6240 in mine works awesome. only 208 oz of torque ( which is plenty ) but a .08 second time is nice and fast. (6V)

 

[TTDRIVER13]

what do you think about using 60wt for the rear? and how important are the bump stops?



what is the 40bump/60 droop? how is this measured? droop=sag when setting still?

60wt seems rather high but if that's what you have available and want to try it let us know how it turned out. I've worked my way up from stock 30wt in increments of 5 and have settled in 45 atm. Bump/droop travel is from ride height how much it compress and extends. I find ride height very important and touchy on this truck relative to high speed turns. Front has 3" of travel and rear 4". Find the middle and lowers it a tad more.

 

[shelby7]

60wt seems rather high but if that's what you have available and want to try it let us know how it turned out. I've worked my way up from stock 30wt in increments of 5 and have settled in 45 atm. Bump/droop travel is from ride height how much it compress and extends. I find ride height very important and touchy on this truck relative to high speed turns. Front has 3" of travel and rear 4". Find the middle and lowers it a tad more.

I love the 60 in the rear, it jumps perfectly level now. I completely drained the stock shock oil and filled up with Losi 60wt shock oil. I guess I got lucky with it, didnt make it touchy at all.

anyone else have bent trailing arms? (2 rods running from the frame to axle to stabilize.) my right side has bent pretty bad.

one quick question, my steering does not return to center sometimes after a tumble or jump and is hard to steer it (kinda gets stuck wanting to turn left). however if i take it and turn the wheels all the way to the right with my hands I hear an audible "click" and then I seems to drive straight and not be stuck trying to turn left or right. what is this?

 

[Wes S.]

I love the 60 in the rear, it jumps perfectly level now. I completely drained the stock shock oil and filled up with Losi 60wt shock oil. I guess I got lucky with it, didnt make it touchy at all.

anyone else have bent trailing arms? (2 rods running from the frame to axle to stabilize.) my right side has bent pretty bad.

one quick question, my steering does not return to center sometimes after a tumble or jump and is hard to steer it (kinda gets stuck wanting to turn left). however if i take it and turn the wheels all the way to the right with my hands I hear an audible "click" and then I seems to drive straight and not be stuck trying to turn left or right. what is this?

Sounds like a stripped servo gear to me. Happens all the time to my Stampede.

 

[shelby7]

and has anyone moved the rear shocks to the other mounting hole on the trailing arms? it appears to have 1 spot of adjustment to move the bottom of the shock rearward toward the axle. this would be less leverage and therefore stiffen the rear end up, correct? anyone tried this? if so, what were the results?

 

[shelby7]

Sounds like a stripped servo gear to me. Happens all the time to my Stampede.

even if it goes back to original position when I force it back?

also, how does the servo saver on this truck work? should i check it or adjust it?

 

[Wes S.]

even if it goes back to original position when I force it back?

also, how does the servo saver on this truck work? should i check it or adjust it?

Possibly. I wouldn't keep forcing it back until you figure out what the real problem is, though.

I'm not the person to ask. I've never seen the Rey in person..

 

[BobTeagle]

even if it goes back to original position when I force it back?

also, how does the servo saver on this truck work? should i check it or adjust it?

The stock servo has metal gears but the servo arm is plastic and strips out easily. Get a metal servo arm and you should be fine. Of course w/out having your truck in front of me this is an educated guess..

 

[TTDRIVER13]

Seized bearings and melted case....