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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

TTDRIVER13 said:
Their out already, $65 shipped. Uses smaller rod ends than the stock losi 7mm so theirs a gap that he says can be "tighten" to fit but I advise the use of washers/shims. Kit comes with ss uppers and alum lowers. Alum uppers is an option as well. They do look clean thou!



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I don't have FB. Looking at the page as a guest it still says they are in the design phase. Can these be ordered w/o A FB account.
 
Someone warned me that Pro-Line beadlock wheels might not hold onto these tires very well. So far they're working fine. I had to make a point of tucking the outer beads into the slot in the wheels when assembling them, so I think they'll hold fine.
 
I didn't see a full throttle jump. and looking for a take off body goes in the wanted section.

but anywho.. alum lowers???? ...nobody ever learns.
 
if they bend.. they keep the shape. id rather use my plastic lowers.

and im working on a cf upper set. super easy.
 
Also what should I use in my gear box for grease and my diffs? I ran the truck 1 time so far but heard that they need to be greased ASAP

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 
marine grease front and rear. sealed bearings on pinion front and rear with 1 shim. and the center diff.. id just leave it alone or put in sealed bearings. I didn't lube mine, and ive had no problem. but im only running it at a tops of 10 minutes at a time.

as far as the rear uppers.. its just a carbon sleeve over allthread. 8/32 with long traxxas revo ends. the uppers im using now doesn't have enough thread going into the rod end. I snapped one off after avoiding a kid on a bike and hit a curb..

the carbon sleeve is to just keep the all thread from bending. I might have erik d lux maybe make a set out of titanium.
 
I also used marine grease. I greased all the gears, and cleaned out the front diff and filled it with grease too. (the reason I filled the front diff with grease is so it couldn't torque-steer the truck if one front wheel comes off the ground.) The center diff I filled with 30K silicone oil, to help the rear axle get more of the motor's power during hard accelerations. That also makes it easier to break the rear tires loose and induce intentional oversteer, which is by far the easiest way to turn sharp corners with this truck.

So far I'm really liking the way this truck handles with the stock tires mounted on non-vented beadlock wheels. It seems to give the outer sidewall a bit more stiffness, which makes it easier for the truck to slide once the outer edges of the outer tread blocks get rounded-off a bit.
 
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fyrstormer said:
I also used marine grease. I greased all the gears, and cleaned out the front diff and filled it with grease too. (the reason I filled the front diff with grease is so it couldn't torque-steer the truck if one front wheel comes off the ground.) The center diff I filled with 30K silicone oil, to help the rear axle get more of the motor's power during hard accelerations. That also makes it easier to break the rear tires loose and induce intentional oversteer, which is by far the easiest way to turn sharp corners with this truck.

So far I'm really liking the way this truck handles with the stock tires mounted on non-vented beadlock wheels. It seems to give the outer sidewall a bit more stiffness, which makes it easier for the truck to slide once the outer edges of the outer tread blocks get rounded-off a bit.
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can you explain the grease part in the front diff? I just don't really get it.. why not use 30k? not knocking ya down or givin you shzit. just wanna know.

30k in the center diff is the best :) letting that rear end break loose in the corners is the best thing to see in a sct 4x4 race.

pro tip: if using glue on sct wheels (not traxxas) glue the inside of the outer sidewall to the side of the rim. better sidewall support. "thumbsup"
 
Hmm, the red rings look better than I thought they would. They pick up the red in the Losi logos.

- - -

The reason I filled the front diff with grease was so it would diff-out super easy when the chassis twists and one front wheel lifts into the air. I learned from my Yeti that when the chassis twists during hard acceleration, one of the front wheels will get lifted into the air, and the other front wheel will pull the vehicle forward asymmetrically if the diff has thick oil in it -- thus causing massive torque-steer. The AVC that comes with the Baja Rey can reduce that effect, but it can't eliminate it.

I also wanted the front diff to be able to diff-out when cornering, to help unload torque from the motor if the truck starts to traction-roll, because the locked rear axle would be unable to unload any torque at all. That helps keep the truck from continuing to power itself into a corner and roll over once the inside wheels start to lift off the ground.

This truck rewards oversteer, though. The easiest way to corner sharply is to slow down slightly, start turning, then mash the throttle. The rear end squats down, lowering its center of gravity, and the rear axle breaks loose and powerslides to help the truck steer. Relying on the front wheels to do all the steering just causes frequent traction-rolling. I basically drive it like a RWD truck when I want to corner sharply, and I drive it like a 4WD truck the rest of the time.

It's not a perfect setup, but it works way better than my Yeti ever did.
 
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The filled front diff robbed battery life from mine (3min)when I tried it and dint notice a significant difference other than it turning into a 2wd truck. It did get hotter and was rather sluggish up front. I'm no expert by far but the greased up diffs does everything you just explained. I can pitch my truck around a dime. I was told by a couple reputable racers that filling the diffs is more orientated towards the 3 diff buggys where you are trying to manipulate the power, no need on this truck with the rear end locked.
 
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