Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[521BBF]

How is the ring and pinion gear mesh adjusted on these things? I know how to do it on a 1:1 car by adjusting the pinion depth and ring gear from side to side until the backlash and pattern are correct, but I know we're not concerned with the pattern on these and only need to get the mesh correct. With these, there is no rear cover, so you can't install the pinion and feel the ring gear, so what do you do? Do you just hold the rear yoke and feel how much play there is by rotating a wheel back and forth? If there is too much play, do you shim the pinion deeper or do you shim the ring gear? Where do you get the shims?

 

[Timmahh]

How is the ring and pinion gear mesh adjusted on these things? I know how to do it on a 1:1 car by adjusting the pinion depth and ring gear from side to side until the backlash and pattern are correct, but I know we're not concerned with the pattern on these and only need to get the mesh correct. With these, there is no rear cover, so you can't install the pinion and feel the ring gear, so what do you do? Do you just hold the rear yoke and feel how much play there is by rotating a wheel back and forth? If there is too much play, do you shim the pinion deeper or do you shim the ring gear? Where do you get the shims?

Yep. that's pretty much the deal.

Once assembled, I grab the pinion, then hold the hex. or put the wheels on and put on table. Then turn the pinion feeling for slop/lash. if there is too much, then take it apart, drop a shim or two behind the pinion, re assemble and re check. Repeat as often as needed. lol

Usually only needed one of the med thickness 5mm shims, but its been many years since I built up axles. and never did a Losi. But it should be the same process.

I Never shimmed a ring gear. most of the time the axles go in after the tubes are built to shimming would be a trick. not undoable, but not easy.

Typicaly getting the mesh between the ring and pinion is more than sufficient. But if a setup is so loose as to need shims for the diff/ring gear. Shim that bitch. lol

I don't think that is needed, but I very well may be mistaking. Nothing I ever did myself, or seen others needing to do or even doing....

 

[521BBF]

Yep. that's pretty much the deal.

Once assembled, I grab the pinion, then hold the hex. or put the wheels on and put on table. Then turn the pinion feeling for slop/lash. if there is too much, then take it apart, drop a shim or two behind the pinion, re assemble and re check. Repeat as often as needed. lol

Usually only needed one of the med thickness 5mm shims, but its been many years since I built up axles. and never did a Losi. But it should be the same process.

I Never shimmed a ring gear. most of the time the axles go in after the tubes are built to shimming would be a trick. not undoable, but not easy.

Typicaly getting the mesh between the ring and pinion is more than sufficient. But if a setup is so loose as to need shims for the diff/ring gear. Shim that bitch. lol

I don't think that is needed, but I very well may be mistaking. Nothing I ever did myself, or seen others needing to do or even doing....

Sweet, thanks. I guess I'll check and adjust the front ring and pinion, too. I can't imagine why the front wouldn't need to be checked.

Here's an interesting fact. Losi forgot to draw the ring gear on the exploded view of the rear axle in the Raptor Baja Rey manual. It is shown in the original Rey manual (the one with the locked diff).

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/LOS03020T1-Manual-EN.pdf

 

[RocknE30]

Reposting some questions I had:

) What size hex removes the body panel screws? Any recommended hex driver sets to snag that aren't crap? I'm used to 4 body clips so having 5,000 screws to work on it is surely going to get old so hopefully I can minimize how often I have to do that haha.

2) The truck doesn't have reverse setup so I assume it's set to program value 1 on the ESC, how do you recommend getting reverse with brakes setup running 3S? Was looking at the manual and I'm not sure if I can edit the current program it's on or if I need to use a different one. Not sure if there is a preferred program setup. And what all needs to be removed to get to the esc in the first place to reprogram?

3) I just ordered a 10T pinion, any other recommendations on how I should upgrade on the driveline without breaking the bank? I'm guessing dropping down to a 2S would be a drag since I started on 3S and ruined myself, but I don't want to obliterate the driveline either.

4) Any handling upgrades you recommend? It seems awfully soft but I don't know how these solid rear axle trucks are usually setup. I read the stock steering servo is crap but I have been out of the game for so long I dont know what a reasonably priced upgrade would be.

Thanks!

 

[521BBF]

Reposting some questions I had:

) What size hex removes the body panel screws? Any recommended hex driver sets to snag that aren't crap? I'm used to 4 body clips so having 5,000 screws to work on it is surely going to get old so hopefully I can minimize how often I have to do that haha.

2) The truck doesn't have reverse setup so I assume it's set to program value 1 on the ESC, how do you recommend getting reverse with brakes setup running 3S? Was looking at the manual and I'm not sure if I can edit the current program it's on or if I need to use a different one. Not sure if there is a preferred program setup. And what all needs to be removed to get to the esc in the first place to reprogram?

3) I just ordered a 10T pinion, any other recommendations on how I should upgrade on the driveline without breaking the bank? I'm guessing dropping down to a 2S would be a drag since I started on 3S and ruined myself, but I don't want to obliterate the driveline either.

4) Any handling upgrades you recommend? It seems awfully soft but I don't know how these solid rear axle trucks are usually setup. I read the stock steering servo is crap but I have been out of the game for so long I dont know what a reasonably priced upgrade would be.

Thanks!

The body screws are 1.5mm. Bondhus makes amazing hex drivers/allen wrenches. Every time I use mine, I can't believe how much I love them.


As for your question #3, there's plenty of info in this thread. I read over it while deciding what truck to buy and found lots of info. I just got the truck today, so I really can't give you and first-hand experience. I will tell you that I bought an aluminum steering set from Exotek and an aluminum third member from SSD that I plan to install before running it at all. If anything else breaks on 3S, I'll upgrade as necessary. There are also plenty of servo recommendations in this thread.

 

[Mervon]

Where do you guys buy your upgrades from?

P.s. TImmah, I appreciate your response. I replied back to you a few days ago but for some reason it said moderators have to review the post before it's published? Been a few days now and noticed it's still not up.

 

[521BBF]

Thanks again. AMain Hobbies just confirmed that the Black Rhino Rey, and I assume all of the Raptor Reys, do not come with the 10t pinion. The part number of the 10t pinion if anyone needs it is LOSA3570.

Well, AMain was wrong. My Black Rhino Rey came with a 10t pinion in a baggie. Since I ordered a 10t pinion when I ordered my Rey, I now have two.

 

[521BBF]

Is it possible to remove the stock tires and then re-mount them without damaging them? I'd like to add some Gorilla tape to the fronts and put them back on the wheels.

 

[TheLetterJ]

Yes, I baked them in the oven at 325° for about 15 minutes and they pop right off with no damage to anything but the glue. It does smoke a bit, so I wouldn't use this method in a place that doesn't have good ventilation. I never had much luck with the tape method, but stuffing stiffer foams (closed cell would be best, but double stuffing open cells is an option) made a big improvement in decreasing pizza cutter action.

 

[521BBF]

Alright, for he rear axle, what's the trick for pulling the yoke off of the pinion gear? Yes, the set screw is out. I think it's probably just some loctite holding it on, but still wondering how others do it.

 

[vonmarshall]

Hi all I have a comparison question that I cannot find an answer to and wonder if any of you can help.

I am smitten by the idea of a desert truck and the Losi has really caught my eye. I was originally going to pull the trigger on the Traxxas UDR which blew me away when I saw it on youtube, but I then stumbled on the Baja Rey and now I cannot make my mind up!

There are loads of Super Baja Rey vs UDR threads and videos out there but none of the 1/10 vs the UDR. Seen side by side they are obviously similarish in size and although there is a large RRP difference (+£400 for the Baja Raptor vs +£800 for the UDR), I am based in the UK and Losi are not a big brand here whereas Traxxas are well supported and deals do seem to come along.

So, putting upfront cost aside and based on the fact I have electrics already, which car do you think is the most fun to drive scale. I won't be pulling wheelies or landing huge jumps and I won't be racing, just having a blast on my local golfcourse in the evening when all the golfers have finished and taking her to the beach a couple of times a year.

Any advice most welcome. Thanks

 

[edjo69]

Hi all I have a comparison question that I cannot find an answer to and wonder if any of you can help.

I am smitten by the idea of a desert truck and the Losi has really caught my eye. I was originally going to pull the trigger on the Traxxas UDR which blew me away when I saw it on youtube, but I then stumbled on the Baja Rey and now I cannot make my mind up!

There are loads of Super Baja Rey vs UDR threads and videos out there but none of the 1/10 vs the UDR. Seen side by side they are obviously similarish in size and although there is a large RRP difference (+£400 for the Baja Raptor vs +£800 for the UDR), I am based in the UK and Losi are not a big brand here whereas Traxxas are well supported and deals do seem to come along.

So, putting upfront cost aside and based on the fact I have electrics already, which car do you think is the most fun to drive scale. I won't be pulling wheelies or landing huge jumps and I won't be racing, just having a blast on my local golfcourse in the evening when all the golfers have finished and taking her to the beach a couple of times a year.

Any advice most welcome. Thanks

From my own research before buying I found the Traxxas seemed to suffer more reliability issues from the start once people started running them harder. Upgrading to more durable components leaves you mostly with one option (though it seems as though we are on the tail end of the Baja Rey at this point as well). Also cost of parts is allot more. Its a tough call though for sure, I am still tempted by the UDR, I just really can't stand Traxxas electronics so I would be stuck having to immediately replace electronics and the way they build everything "in" makes that difficult from the start. The UDR is a great truck but so is the Baja Rey. Either one is a good platform to own.

 

[edjo69]

Alright, for he rear axle, what's the trick for pulling the yoke off of the pinion gear? Yes, the set screw is out. I think it's probably just some loctite holding it on, but still wondering how others do it.

Soak it with CA de-bonder, it will eat the loctite.

 

[Panther6834]

Hi all I have a comparison question that I cannot find an answer to and wonder if any of you can help.



I am smitten by the idea of a desert truck and the Losi has really caught my eye. I was originally going to pull the trigger on the Traxxas UDR which blew me away when I saw it on youtube, but I then stumbled on the Baja Rey and now I cannot make my mind up!



There are loads of Super Baja Rey vs UDR threads and videos out there but none of the 1/10 vs the UDR. Seen side by side they are obviously similarish in size and although there is a large RRP difference (+£400 for the Baja Raptor vs +£800 for the UDR), I am based in the UK and Losi are not a big brand here whereas Traxxas are well supported and deals do seem to come along.



So, putting upfront cost aside and based on the fact I have electrics already, which car do you think is the most fun to drive scale. I won't be pulling wheelies or landing huge jumps and I won't be racing, just having a blast on my local golfcourse in the evening when all the golfers have finished and taking her to the beach a couple of times a year.



Any advice most welcome. Thanks

The BR is definitely smaller than the UDR. Size-wise, a closer comparison would be the Super Baja Rey. However, based on your intended use, I'd probably recommend the BR. While it's smaller, it's a total blast to drive. I've replaced all the stock electronics, going with a lower kV motor (3100kV vs the stock 3800kV), but I am also running it strictly on 3S (no more 2S for this truck...uh-uh). With this motor, on 3S, she breaks 42mph (using stock pinion). Sure, I could slow her down, by swapping to a smaller pinion, but my throttle control is good enough that I won't bother.

Save yourself a load of cash, and get yourself the Baja Rey. Then, use some of that saved money to do upgrades...and, with whatever is left over, buy yourself & your significant other a really nice dinner...especially since you're going to need to do something 'super nice' to explain why you spent so much money on a "big boy's toy"...lol

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[vonmarshall]

Save yourself a load of cash, and get yourself the Baja Rey. Then, use some of that saved money to do upgrades...and, with whatever is left over, buy yourself & your significant other a really nice dinner...especially since you're going to need to do something 'super nice' to explain why you spent so much money on a "big boy's toy"...lol

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Some great advice there!

 

[edjo69]

Some great advice there!

Since you are in UK if I were you I would get the Traxxas UDR, you are going to break parts no matter how gentle you run it and if Traxxas is well support in the UK that's your best bet. Like I was saying the Baja Rey seems to have peaked in after market support about a year ago, so parts I have on one of mine aren't even being made anymore. Currently wrapping up a super scale version right now and my third BR is going to be a Nick Foremen replica of one of his Trophy Rat series trucks but due to lack of parts support I am trying to stick with as many Losi made parts and stock OE parts as possible, while buying spare aftermarket parts when I see them for future repairs. It is such a fun truck as the UDR is as well. Do they make a locker for the rear axle on the UDR? (if they don't drain and refill the diff with at least 100K diff fluid) If so I would get one, then you will truly experience scale desert truck driving and handling personalities to the fullest, sliding corners, massive powering out of turns etc... All three of my Baja Rey's run locked rear diffs.


Hope some of this helps, E

 

[521BBF]

Soak it with CA de-bonder, it will eat the loctite.

Thanks. I got it off after posting. I put the yoke/u-joint in an aluminum jawed vice and pulled up on the third member. It came right off. It was definitely loctite on the pinion shaft making things difficult.



I got 1 1/2 3S packs through the truck and holy god is it a lot of fun and extremely fast. The servo is toast already (will not turn right for some reason) and the front tires balloon way too much. I'd like to find some that fit the stock rims, are the same diameter, and don't balloon so I can actually go full throttle.

 

[edjo69]

Thanks. I got it off after posting. I put the yoke/u-joint in an aluminum jawed vice and pulled up on the third member. It came right off. It was definitely loctite on the pinion shaft making things difficult.



I got 1 1/2 3S packs through the truck and holy god is it a lot of fun and extremely fast. The servo is toast already (will not turn right for some reason) and the front tires balloon way too much. I'd like to find some that fit the stock rims, are the same diameter, and don't balloon so I can actually go full throttle.

Proline Hyrax are the stiffest choice, listed on their website under SCT tires, they're 4-3/4" in diameter, they look good and perform great, you can also get Proline Pro-Trac F-11 bead-lock wheels as well, esp. if you are like me and hate gluing on tires!

 

[Panther6834]

The Axial YETI SCORE Method 105 wheels also work well...extremely well.

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[521BBF]

Can anyone recommend an aluminum, 25T servo horn that has the stock dimensions and thread size? I don't know what the stock thread size is and most horns don't even have the length or thread size listed, so it's kind of difficult to determine what will work.