Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Deleted by user.
(For some unknown reason, my post got dbl-posted)
(For some unknown reason, my post got dbl-posted)
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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck
- Thread starter grunt95
- Start date
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
The thread size is a standard 2mm screw, the same as in almost all servos. Length (if I remember correctly) should be 8mm, but no longer (as you'll damage the circuit inside). As for the horn's arm length, any 20mm horn will do. As many would probably agree with, I'd definitely recommend the aluminum horn over a plastic one. Look for Losi part #LOS331007, as that's Losi's own aluminum horn for the BR/RR.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Thanks. It sounds like some people have used the TLR22. There is also the Hot Racing TLR 22, which is a clamping version that is supposed to be compatible with the TLR22. So, one might think that the Hot Racing TLR 22 would also work. Am I crazy here or will the Hot Racing TLR 22 work?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-racing-tlr-22-aluminum-clamping-servo-arm-25t-hrash25ltr22/p769037
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-racing-tlr-22-aluminum-clamping-servo-arm-25t-hrash25ltr22/p769037
edjo69
Pebble Pounder
They will both work, but probably replace your servo before you buy a horn so you get the right teeth count. You don't want to get one for the stock servo and then have to get another when you replace the servo! I prefer clamping horns.
Thanks, but too late! I bought an aluminum 23t arm for the stock servo and the stock servo crapped out after 1.5 packs! oh well. If anyone needs it, let me know. I am getting a new 25T servo now and trying to decide what arm to get.
Is there any advantage to using a 20mm long arm? Stock is 15mm (I just measured it).
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
I could be wrong on the length. Honestly, I never measured. I ordered the aluminum horn made by Vanquish (now discontinued), made for the Baja Rey & Rock Rey.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
vonmarshall
Newbie
I pulled the trigger last night and ordered one of the Last BR's I can find here in the UK. I cannot remember being this excited about a new RC car for a very long time.
I appreciate I am late to the party and normally would avoid a car that looks like it may be discontinued soon, but I always wanted a IFS/SRA combination so decided to take the risk.
Losi is not a well supported brand here in the UK so I am going to make a few tweaks to make it more robust from the get go and also stock up on some parts that I may need but find hard to source in a year or two.
Could all of you who have owned and run one of these for a while cast your eyes over my list and let me know your thoughts?
First up is a selection of parts being bought primarily for cosmetic reasons, simply because I like metal!
a) GPM alloy front lower and upper arms (I have not seen much evidence in this thread or on youtube of the standard front arms being weak but they are very much on display and I simply want them to look cool).
b) GPM rear lower suspension... as above
Next up are parts that seem to address weaknesses that can arise after time
c) Steel upper arms for rear suspension. Probably GPM or Vanquish
d) Hot Racing or SSD third member for SRA with big bearings
e) SSD Front Bulkhead with larger bearings
f) GPM alloy servo mount[/URL]
g) GPM alloy stearing set
I plan on sticking with the standard suspension and link mounts, figuring it is better for them to bend or even break in an impact. The same thinking sits behind retaining the standard front knuckle arms.
So please let me know if there are any upgrades I have missed out that would be worth it if I hope to get a decent long life out of this beauty.
And also what standard Losi spares would you keep in your parts bin?
Finally I do love alloy wheels but it seems that there are no SC wheels made in alloy. Am I restricted to Proline Protrac as the only other wheel out there?
thanks in advance for your thoughts and input.
I appreciate I am late to the party and normally would avoid a car that looks like it may be discontinued soon, but I always wanted a IFS/SRA combination so decided to take the risk.
Losi is not a well supported brand here in the UK so I am going to make a few tweaks to make it more robust from the get go and also stock up on some parts that I may need but find hard to source in a year or two.
Could all of you who have owned and run one of these for a while cast your eyes over my list and let me know your thoughts?
First up is a selection of parts being bought primarily for cosmetic reasons, simply because I like metal!
a) GPM alloy front lower and upper arms (I have not seen much evidence in this thread or on youtube of the standard front arms being weak but they are very much on display and I simply want them to look cool).
b) GPM rear lower suspension... as above
Next up are parts that seem to address weaknesses that can arise after time
c) Steel upper arms for rear suspension. Probably GPM or Vanquish
d) Hot Racing or SSD third member for SRA with big bearings
e) SSD Front Bulkhead with larger bearings
f) GPM alloy servo mount[/URL]
g) GPM alloy stearing set
I plan on sticking with the standard suspension and link mounts, figuring it is better for them to bend or even break in an impact. The same thinking sits behind retaining the standard front knuckle arms.
So please let me know if there are any upgrades I have missed out that would be worth it if I hope to get a decent long life out of this beauty.
And also what standard Losi spares would you keep in your parts bin?
Finally I do love alloy wheels but it seems that there are no SC wheels made in alloy. Am I restricted to Proline Protrac as the only other wheel out there?
thanks in advance for your thoughts and input.
I'm a noob, but I just got a Baja Rey (one of the last ones I could find in the US) and my servo lasted 1.5 packs, so you'll definitely want to add a better one to your list. I just ordered a Savox and a 25T horn, which was almost impossible to find.
I also installed an SSD third member and checked the gear mesh before even running it. I found lots of grease in the rear. This contradicts what I read in older posts about the rear being dry, so apparently Losi fixed that issue. I got a spare ring and pinion just because people have blown theirs up and they were also very hard to find, so when I found one, I grabbed it. I really hope the parts shortage is related to COVID and not something else. Does anyone know why there are so few parts?
If you'll be running on 3S, the front tires will balloon very badly. I just dismounted my front tires last night to see if Gorilla tape will help. Seems like a lot of people have success with it. Good luck!
smirk-racing
Newbie
I bought a Baja Rey about 3 months ago, and it has been more difficult to get sorted than any RC I've ever owned.
Challenges so far:
-- grinding noise on any hard acceleration or braking
Tore into all three diffs (front/center/rear) to inspect gears, and all were 100% ok. Replaced front diff case with exotek metal case just to be extra safe. Put everything back together, and problem was still there. Replaced rear diff gears with Losi diff locker and problem went away. So there is something wrong with the rear diff gears, but I'm not sure what. I have a metal third member which I can install, but so far the rear axle is stock.
-- won't turn left
Tested a different (known good) servo on the bench, and it clearly showed the problem. Throw to the right was fine, throw to the left was about 30%. I replaced the receiver and transmitter with a basic unit I had lying around and immediately had full throw in both directions.
Have other folks had any such problems?
Challenges so far:
-- grinding noise on any hard acceleration or braking
Tore into all three diffs (front/center/rear) to inspect gears, and all were 100% ok. Replaced front diff case with exotek metal case just to be extra safe. Put everything back together, and problem was still there. Replaced rear diff gears with Losi diff locker and problem went away. So there is something wrong with the rear diff gears, but I'm not sure what. I have a metal third member which I can install, but so far the rear axle is stock.
-- won't turn left
Tested a different (known good) servo on the bench, and it clearly showed the problem. Throw to the right was fine, throw to the left was about 30%. I replaced the receiver and transmitter with a basic unit I had lying around and immediately had full throw in both directions.
Have other folks had any such problems?
Alright, so I fixed the crazy ballooning of the stock tires on 3s. I cut a width of Gorilla tape the exact width of the tread and taped the insides after scuffing the tires' inside surfaces. I overlapped the end 1/2", then added another piece of tape 1/2" long 180 degrees from the overlap for balance. I then CA'd all the way around both edges of the tape and all joints with the tire not inside out. The beads of CA are at the 90 degree angle where the inside of the tread surface meets the sidewalls. I figured that would add a lot of strength to the tire overall. Let it dry overnight, reasembled, and glued. I have run a few 3s packs through it since and there is absolutely no ballooning at all. I can't even see the tires expand a little bit. I'm pretty happy about it. I hope it lasts! I also took the opportunity to paint the beadlock rings silver to match the paint of the Black Rhino body and it looks killer.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Something I learned early on is, when building a kit, ALWAYS go with a stronger/faster servo than the kit manufacturer's "recommended" servo, and when buying an RTR/ARTR (car, truck, boat, etc), ALWAYS make replacing the stock servo with something stronger/faster one of your first upgrades. I ordered my BR's replacement servo before I started deciding any other upgrades.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
smirk-racing
Newbie
The original Baja Rey had a locked rear diff, but the new one has an open rear diff. Which do people prefer and why?
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Personally, I prefer the open rear. With a locked rear, it's locked...end of story. However, with an open diff, you can vary how "open" (or locked) you want it to be, simply by increasing/decreasing the weight of the diff fluid. If you truly want it "open-open", you could put in something as light as 10K, or 15K...if want it "locked", or fairly close, you can user 500K, or maybe even 1M.
For my BR, I wanted to create something very close to a limited-slip, with just a slight bias towards the 'slip', so I decided to go with 80K. I could have removed a little of the 'slip', and gone with 100K, but I felt that 80K would handle slightly better in turns...and, so far, it has.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
smirk-racing
Newbie
Thanks Panther. Do you have any trouble keeping the oil in the diff? Because of the way the axle shafts enter the diff, I have trouble with leaks...
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
I'll be honest...I haven't checked the axle since rebuilding it...but, it's funny you should ask that question, as I was planning on doing just that later today...especially since my piggyback shocks were finally delivered, and I need to work on the truck's rear end anyway. Considering how thick 80K diff fluid is, I had no trouble, whatsoever, getting the diff installed, and the axle assembled...tho, I did use a little "trick" to do it.
Before placing the gears inside the diff cup, I put some waterproof grease in the bottom opening (from the outside). I did the same thing to the ring gear (which is also the diff 'cap'). This acted as a temporary "plug", allowing me to add the first gear, add some diff fluid, add the planet gears, and then more diff fluid, without losing any fluid out the bottom. I figured, there was also the possibility that, once the axle was fully assembled, the waterproof grease might also help to keep the fluid inside the diff.
If I remember, I'll report back the results of the rear axle.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Ok...got the piggyback shocks installed. Despite being "cheap Asian imports" off eBay, they look really nice, and installed easily enough. Also, note that the piggybacks are NOT just for looks...they ARE functioning, with adjustable back-pressure. Anyway, I did, thankfully, discover something (and, it's A REALLY good thing I did) before installing - where the pressure hose attaches to the shock & piggyback, you need to remove the attachment point from the shock/piggyback, and use some Loctite. I'm not referring to the coupler that holds the hose into the attachment piece...I'm talking about where the attachment piece screws into the shock cap & piggyback.
As for your initial question, here's your answer:
As you can see, the waterproof grease I used to "plug" both ends of the diff is holding up EXTREMELY nicely. It doesn't appear as if any diff fluid has exited the diff.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
edjo69
Pebble Pounder
Panther, are those 125mm RC Run shocks?
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
I bought them on eBay. The brand want listed, but that's what the sticker on the piggyback says. On eBay, they're just listed as '4pcs 123mm Negative Pressure Hydrolics Shock Absorber for 1:10 RC Car Model'. They were $65.99 for 4 shocks.
~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place