Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[521BBF]

Heischb224, what's the orange material on the shocks?

 

[521BBF]

Hi Everyone,

I posted this earlier, but it didn't go through for some reason. I'm a noob interested in an aluminum rear axle or third member for a Rey, but parts seem scarce. The Currie rear from Vanquish is "unavailable", and Vanquish told me that they have no idea when it will be back in stock. Everyone seems to be sold out of the SSD third member, and a Vitavon rear will take forever to get here as it comes from China. Is there any way to get one of these parts immediately? Is it usually this hard to get parts for this truck or is this related to the coronavirus?

 

[Heischb224]

521bbf, I used water balloons. I bought a pack of 12 inch balloons, and I cut the balloons a little longer then the spring. After they were cut to the correct length I pushed the left over ballon down into the shock and put the shock back together.

 

[edjo69]

Hi Everyone,

I posted this earlier, but it didn't go through for some reason. I'm a noob interested in an aluminum rear axle or third member for a Rey, but parts seem scarce. The Currie rear from Vanquish is "unavailable", and Vanquish told me that they have no idea when it will be back in stock. Everyone seems to be sold out of the SSD third member, and a Vitavon rear will take forever to get here as it comes from China. Is there any way to get one of these parts immediately? Is it usually this hard to get parts for this truck or is this related to the coronavirus?

Vitatavon shipping is still pretty fast, I just ordered another transmission housing from them and I got it in just under 2 weeks.

 

[edjo69]

Heischb224, I just sent you a PM for a bit more info, thank you! Ed

 

[521BBF]

Vitatavon shipping is still pretty fast, I just ordered another transmission housing from them and I got it in just under 2 weeks.

Thanks! Did you order it from Ebay? Is that the only way to get ahold of their stuff?

 

[Panther6834]

Thanks! Did you order it from Ebay? Is that the only way to get ahold of their stuff?

As far as I know, yes.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

 

[521BBF]

How will this battery work in this truck? Is it a high enough amperage rating?

https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_99&product_id=548

 

[Panther6834]

How will this battery work in this truck? Is it a high enough amperage rating?



https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_99&product_id=548

Most definitely...excellent choice. My only suggestion...nay, call it a VERY-strong recommendation...would be this:

I you plan on running 3S, and you don't want to break anything (other than things that might get broken under 'any' circumstance), you need to go to a lower tooth pinion and/or swap motors for a lower kV motor. In my case, I kept the stock 14T pinion, but swapped the stock 3800kV motor for a Tekin ROC412 HD 3100kV. With that combo, my BR hit just under 43mph...mind you, this is with an additional 2.4lbs of machined aluminum parts.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

 

[edjo69]

How will this battery work in this truck? Is it a high enough amperage rating?

https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_99&product_id=548

SMC make good packs, they aren't Maxamps quality, but I have 3 SMC batts and they all perform well, I have however had to re-solder the connectors for a better connection without frayed wires etc, when I order from them again, and I will because of the price, I will get them without connectors and just solder them on the first time around. That particular one is going to be a snug fit you will have to remove the divider but it should fit.

 

[edjo69]

Most definitely...excellent choice. My only suggestion...nay, call it a VERY-strong recommendation...would be this:

I you plan on running 3S, and you don't want to break anything (other than things that might get broken under 'any' circumstance), you need to go to a lower tooth pinion and/or swap motors for a lower kV motor. In my case, I kept the stock 14T pinion, but swapped the stock 3800kV motor for a Tekin ROC412 HD 3100kV. With that combo, my BR hit just under 43mph...mind you, this is with an additional 2.4lbs of machined aluminum parts.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

Just an FYI the gen 1 Baja Reys use a 13t stock pinion and come with a 10t for running 3s with the stock motor. Not sure about the "Raptor" versions but it sounds like they might be 14t and I have no idea if they come with the extra smaller pinion for 3s, anyway just thought I would let you guys know. E

 

[521BBF]

Most definitely...excellent choice. My only suggestion...nay, call it a VERY-strong recommendation...would be this:

I you plan on running 3S, and you don't want to break anything (other than things that might get broken under 'any' circumstance), you need to go to a lower tooth pinion and/or swap motors for a lower kV motor. In my case, I kept the stock 14T pinion, but swapped the stock 3800kV motor for a Tekin ROC412 HD 3100kV. With that combo, my BR hit just under 43mph...mind you, this is with an additional 2.4lbs of machined aluminum parts.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

Thanks! I'm definitely going to install a 10 tooth pinion. My question was more along the lines of will a pack that is only rated at 110A be enough for a motor that draws 130A continuous. It sounds like it will be fine, but just want to make sure.

 

[521BBF]

Just an FYI the gen 1 Baja Reys use a 13t stock pinion and come with a 10t for running 3s with the stock motor. Not sure about the "Raptor" versions but it sounds like they might be 14t and I have no idea if they come with the extra smaller pinion for 3s, anyway just thought I would let you guys know. E

Good info, thanks. I had no idea that the current models don't come with the 10t pinion.

 

[Panther6834]

SMC make good packs, they aren't Maxamps quality.

While MaxAmps might be very good, they do have one "problem" - the MaxAmps price. I don't mind paying a 5-10% premium for something slightly better, but I'm not going to pay a 50-100% premium, no matter how good they might be. MaxAmps' pricing is "rip-off" pricing. There are plenty of other batteries that are just as good, if not better, for much lower prices (Turnigy, TP, Dinogy).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

 

[521BBF]

Just an FYI the gen 1 Baja Reys use a 13t stock pinion and come with a 10t for running 3s with the stock motor. Not sure about the "Raptor" versions but it sounds like they might be 14t and I have no idea if they come with the extra smaller pinion for 3s, anyway just thought I would let you guys know. E

Thanks again. AMain Hobbies just confirmed that the Black Rhino Rey, and I assume all of the Raptor Reys, do not come with the 10t pinion. The part number of the 10t pinion if anyone needs it is LOSA3570.

 

[521BBF]

So am I good to run a 130A continuous motor with a 110A battery like this one?

https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_99&product_id=548

Anyone?

 

[edjo69]

So am I good to run a 130A continuous motor with a 110A battery like this one?

https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_99&product_id=548

Anyone?

Yes, the motor will only pull what amperage is offered up by the battery and what can pass through the ESC, the motor is not constantly pulling 130A, it may peak occasionally somewhere near that but during the course of a run you will only pull max amperage on WFO straight lines runs. That battery will work just fine.

 

[RocknE30]

Hey everyone, I finally got back into the rc truck game after a 15 year or so hiatus and picked up a lightly used Baja Rey. Used to run gas stadium trucks and had an electric duratrax mini quake, I think I actually have an account on this site from 2004 but I couldn't remember my password or email it was setup with. I only got the truck, transmitter and a 5000mah 3s pack so I will need to pick up some tools and downloaded the manual. I've got a few questions, haven't had time to read through more than 10 pages of the thread so apologies if there's some common questions.

1) What size hex removes the body panel screws? Any recommended hex driver sets to snag that aren't crap? I'm used to 4 body clips so having 5,000 screws to work on it is surely going to get old so hopefully I can minimize how often I have to do that haha.

2) The truck doesn't have reverse setup so I assume it's set to program value 1 on the ESC, how do you recommend getting reverse with brakes setup running 3S? Was looking at the manual and I'm not sure if I can edit the current program it's on or if I need to use a different one. Not sure if there is a preferred program setup. And what all needs to be removed to get to the esc in the first place to reprogram?

3) I just ordered a 10T pinion, any other recommendations on how I should upgrade on the driveline without breaking the bank? I'm guessing dropping down to a 2S would be a drag since I started on 3S and ruined myself, but I don't want to obliterate the driveline either.

4) Any handling upgrades you recommend? It seems awfully soft but I don't know how these solid rear axle trucks are usually setup. I read the stock steering servo is crap but I have been out of the game for so long I dont know what a reasonably priced upgrade would be.

I've only had a few packs to rip through on the street but it's fun to drive. Just trying to find the limit of high speed cornering without rolling it is enough to keep myself entertained. I read the stock tires are crap as well so I'll have to order some new wheels and tires before the stock tires self destruct. Need to get it out on dirt but so far so good!

 

[Mervon]

What up guys, just wanted to introduce myself as a new Baja Rey Owner. Its been over 15 years since I've been in the hobby and WOW how things have changed (Used to have a HPI Nitro Rs4 and Ofna 1/8 Nitro Buggy)

Initial thoughts:
- Truck is beautiful, love the details
- Running 3s and this thing is crazy fast and handles very realistically.

Disappointments:
- Front steering servo is weak (What did you upgrade to?)
- Grinding sound from gears when starting from a stop/very slow speeds
- Owners manual doesn't have much info. Not sure what the plastic bar is for.
- Car seems to have over heated on my first run as it basically shut itself off...what can be done about this? *Edit* It appears the battery was just dead? Do Lipo batteries just turn off once they are dead?

Also a newb question here:
- I am new to electric and learning all bout the batteries/connections. I ordered my truck from Amain hobbies and showed the customer rep everything I was ordering (Truck, charger, battery) and he said this is all I need. I specially asked if I needed another connection for the charger to battery, but he said no. Of course when I get my truck, the plug is too large for the battery. Apparently the battery is IC5 while the charger is IC3. I ran to my local hobby store and grabbed the connection.
- All charged and ready for my first run, and I see the trucks plug is also IC3. I thought, no big deal, I have the connection from the charger I can use. Well when using the connection, I have way to much slack of wire that does not fit in the battery box...what are my exact options here besides buying a different battery? Real disappointed with Amain as I asked TWO employees prior to my purchase and both said I have everything I need to run.

Appreciate the help guys and I look forward to learning more from the forum and its members

- Mervon

 

[Timmahh]

What up guys, just wanted to introduce myself as a new Baja Rey Owner. Its been over 15 years since I've been in the hobby and WOW how things have changed (Used to have a HPI Nitro Rs4 and Ofna 1/8 Nitro Buggy)

Initial thoughts:
- Truck is beautiful, love the details
- Running 3s and this thing is crazy fast and handles very realistically.

Disappointments:
- Front steering servo is weak (What did you upgrade to?)
- Grinding sound from gears when starting from a stop/very slow speeds
- Owners manual doesn't have much info. Not sure what the plastic bar is for.
- Car seems to have over heated on my first run as it basically shut itself off...what can be done about this? *Edit* It appears the battery was just dead? Do Lipo batteries just turn off once they are dead?

Also a newb question here:
- I am new to electric and learning all bout the batteries/connections. I ordered my truck from Amain hobbies and showed the customer rep everything I was ordering (Truck, charger, battery) and he said this is all I need. I specially asked if I needed another connection for the charger to battery, but he said no. Of course when I get my truck, the plug is too large for the battery. Apparently the battery is IC5 while the charger is IC3. I ran to my local hobby store and grabbed the connection.
- All charged and ready for my first run, and I see the trucks plug is also IC3. I thought, no big deal, I have the connection from the charger I can use. Well when using the connection, I have way to much slack of wire that does not fit in the battery box...what are my exact options here besides buying a different battery? Real disappointed with Amain as I asked TWO employees prior to my purchase and both said I have everything I need to run.

Appreciate the help guys and I look forward to learning more from the forum and its members

- Mervon

Hey Mervon, Welcome to the Addiction again (Crawling is a bigger addiction that other RCs. lol Trust me when I say this. lmao) I got out in 2012, and just got back into the scene. I do not have the Baja or Rock Rey rig. YET.

But I can help with some of your questions.

To start, yes, the technology of Brushless Motors and LiPo/LiFE Batteries have seriously changed the market for ever. For the Better no doubt.


As for your questions.
Just like back in the day. Stock Gear is just enough to get it done in most all cases (not always, some rigs have some good electronics, but they are just very few and very far between)
A Lot of people are using Savox Servos. With today's Coreless/Brushless motors and LiPo/LiFe batteries. gone are the 5 minutes of fun, and 15 minutes of draining the NiCD/NiMH pack to charge up for 5 more minutes. lol

I get hours of crawl time on a single 2S 5200 Turnigy Lipo in my rig.

I am liking the Reefs RC servos. Their 422hd V2 servo is just about 100.00 and on 2s will provide 422 in/oz of torque for your rig.
I used to be a JR Servo Snob (just loved their quality and reliability) but they were generally 30%ish percent more than Futaba Hitecs of similar specs.
Many use the Savox servos with great results.

Just be sure it has a minimum of 300 in/oz of torque for steering these rock rigs. with the tires pinched in rocks, you'll need some good torque to move them.

The start up/slow speed grinding noise could be a few things. if it goes away at a bit higher speed, that tells me the gear mesh is probably good at the pinion/spur. If it was too tight, the grinding would continue on higher speeds.

Depending on the gearing, it may just be a tight set of gears working in (news gears may need a lil runtim to smooth out.

But generally, these rigs are not quiet or silent with running slow/low speeds. The gears (some are spiral cuts ) make a bit of noise normally. so you may not have a problem, but a more normal gear train. Watch some vids of other reys and see if yours does the same, or worse. May help clue you into if there is an issue. and what it may be if there is one.

Most Manauls are great on Pics, but very space on info. Best I can offer here is to scour that manual and find the pic of the bar you reference. It would show you where it goes. A Pic here may help others help you on the bar (what bar is it, what it looks like etc).


These New Electronics for Brushless and Lipos have some built in fail safe features.

This can get pretty deep for info on LiPo Safety. But to cut to the chase, Lipo cells are flat (out of charge) when they hit 3v (3.2/3.4v per cell) and it's Time to recharge. Fully charged they give out nearly 4v.
when Lipos get Undercharged or overcharged, it can cause an issue, and that can lead to not good issues (beyond bad cells, a LiPo can ignite and flame out due to being to far drained, or over charged, or even the cells getting out of balance can be a big issue.)
So New ESC's have LiPo Charge Monitoring. and that will shut off the power to the motor via the ESC when it notes the cell charge is too low.

You'll have a bit of a learning curve on LiPo charging and Balancing to get caught up on, and from there, the ESCs and programming them for your LiPo batts. Its not a hard curve, its pretty easy to learn. But the Differences in these new LiPo cells is worth learning the ins/outs of LiPo Batts.

Basically it sounds like you're ESC shut off the power to the motor as it sensed the charge was low. at this point, it should like the ESC did what it was designed and programmed to do. Shut down power so you can't keep driving and further drain the LiPo battery.

Here is a vid that will help get you up to day on LiPo batts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQtKgiv70DQ


The connectors used today are many. Not like when we had basically one or two connectors. Today there are T Plugs (Deans style) EC3/5, Traxxas has their own, XT 30/60/90 connectors, as well as bullet type connectors. So this is a bit of a haphazard area where the majority of us guys will buy a bunch of one type of connectors and use them on all our batts, escs, and Charge leads.

I know the Vid is from A main.lol But it is solid info.