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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

Do you know anyone who could make custom rims for a build?

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No. And, honestly, such a prospect could be extremely expensive. I have no clue on what that might cost, but if be willing to bet it could be $100/wheel, or more.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
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No. And, honestly, sick a prospect could be extremely expensive. I have no clue on what that might cost, but if be willing to bet it could be $100/wheel, or more.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
Ok, you are probably right on the cost, and that wouldn't be in the range I'm willing to spend. Could I get a 2.2 rim with a deep offset and not have any issues?

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Actually I just found a proline set that matched the set I needed

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I knew this would happen, but after three packs? Disappointed. Maybe order some beefier rods (Custom length) with some M5 steel/aluminum ends?

<a href="https://ibb.co/X2NZ1HV"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/f1BYfJQ/0679121-B-5387-4238-8-D4-F-7724-CCEB1-BE3.jpg" alt="0679121-B-5387-4238-8-D4-F-7724-CCEB1-BE3" border="0"></a>
 
I knew this would happen, but after three packs? Disappointed. Maybe order some beefier rods (Custom length) with some M5 steel/aluminum ends?



<a href="https://ibb.co/X2NZ1HV"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/f1BYfJQ/0679121-B-5387-4238-8-D4-F-7724-CCEB1-BE3.jpg" alt="0679121-B-5387-4238-8-D4-F-7724-CCEB1-BE3" border="0"></a>
Was that the rear upper links? If so, which ones (ie. brand/model) "died"? Also, what's the length of the links (the eye-to-eye length, as well as the length of just the metal turnbuckle without the rod ends). An idea just popped into my head, but I won't know whether, or not, is a possibility until I know the length of the rods.

I can't measure mine right now, as I'm in the middle of moving things around (today is the second of what I think would be 3-4 days off "moving things around"). Trying to make room for both only the BR, but also a large FE boat.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
Just found this website. Don’t even know if this is the right size at all! But just browsing for a couple seconds I see that they will have something that everybody might like for rod ends! Check this out guys. Panther I will answer you tomorrow on that I didn’t get to read it yet.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-RH-Male-Heim-Joint-Rod-Ends-1-4-,34335.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard-Steel-Heim-Joint-Rod-Ends-1-4-28-RH-Female,29291.html
Linkage for carburetors and cables and such. Am I tripping;-) or would this work?

 
Just found this website. Don’t even know if this is the right size at all! But just browsing for a couple seconds I see that they will have something that everybody might like for rod ends! Check this out guys. Panther I will answer you tomorrow on that I didn’t get to read it yet.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-RH-Male-Heim-Joint-Rod-Ends-1-4-,34335.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standard-Steel-Heim-Joint-Rod-Ends-1-4-28-RH-Female,29291.html
Linkage for carburetors and cables and such. Am I tripping;-) or would this work?
Honestly, I think it's worth a try. Whether, or not, it's workable will probably depend on two primary things - 1) that the threading (28) matching the threading of the link/turnbuckle; 2) that the diameter of the end balls is large enough for the screw to pass through, but not so large that it would move (I'm guessing, any movement greater than 2-3 tenths of a millimeter might be considered "too much"). Another great thing about these (if they work) is that one wouldn't have to 'worry' about screwing the links in so far that it pushes though the other end, pinning the ball end, preventing it from moving...once they 'hit' the other end, it couldn't be screwed in any further, guaranteeing the ball end has full movement.

Don't know if you've already ordered some, but I'm willing to order some, just to try it out.. but, still need to figure out the link/turnbuckle lengths needed for the rear upper links, as well as the steering/camber links.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
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Honestly, I think it's worth a try. Whether, or not, it's workable will probably depend on two primary things - 1) that the threading (28) matching the threading of the link/turnbuckle; 2) that the diameter of the end balls is large enough for the screw to pass through, but not so large that it would move (I'm guessing, any movement greater than 2-3 tenths of a millimeter might be considered "too much"). Another great thing about these (if they work) is that one wouldn't have to 'worry' about screwing the links in so far that it pushes though the other end, pinning the ball end, preventing it from moving...once they 'hit' the other end, it couldn't be screwed in any further, guaranteeing the ball end has full movement.

Don't know if you've already ordered some, but I'm willing to order some, just to try it out.. but, still need to figure out the link/turnbuckle lengths needed for the rear upper links, as well as the steering/camber links.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]


Sorry it took so long to get back! There’s a vanquish upper links. The plastic rod ends are 17 mm from hole to end. M4-.7 thread. 153 mm (with the M4 locknut as a spacer) and the actual links are 115 mm.

And a few millimeters difference isn’t a big issue, you could grind some of the material off the threaded female side. After it broke, I replaced it with the rod end from the Losi aluminum trailing arms. Took out the M4 locknut spacer and it’s currently 157 mm. So not far off. I figure when I get them I will grind off about 2 mm each on the threaded side of the rod end to end up at about 156/155mm ball to ball.

I found another website that actually has M3 and up.
I’m definitely ordering them from here. A little pricey, but I think it will be worth it.
And I forgot to mention, upper and lower linkage is the same length. So in a pinch you could use an old trailing arm as a replacement for the upper if you’re out bashing.

And to reduce slop, I try to use partially threaded bolts whenever I can (Obviously trim them to length LOL) Reference picture number two.

https://www.mcmaster.com/rod-ends/s...ic/shank-thread-size~m4/shank-thread-size~m3/



 
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Those also look like possibilities.

Pluses:
Metric, as opposed to Imperial
Carbon Steel, as opposed to SS, aluminum, or nylon

Negatives:
Ball end dinner is tied to rod end diameter (as the screws holding the rod ends to the BR are M3, this forces you to use links/turnbuckles that have 3mm ends)

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
Those also look like possibilities.

Pluses:
Metric, as opposed to Imperial
Carbon Steel, as opposed to SS, aluminum, or nylon

Negatives:
Ball end dinner is tied to rod end diameter (as the screws holding the rod ends to the BR are M3, this forces you to use links/turnbuckles that have 3mm ends)

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

The picture I put before with the imperial thread, that was just for reference. They have M5 and up. (But that does us no good! LOL)

I was planning on drilling out to 4mm to accommodate anyways. So no big deal. Even with the aluminum upgrade that holds the links on the axle and bulkhead (I don’t have those), still wouldn’t be losing enough material to weaken it in my opinion.
Just placed the order today. From Los Angeles will be here on Wednesday."thumbsup"
 
Received my Vitavon Racing rear axle today (he even anodized it black, as I asked), as well as the T-Bone Racing rear axle skid. Although not actually built (still waiting on parts, including the bearings), here's what they look like together.
b4f6d695989d568410c5f67996961065.jpg
186648998d59a6486c2502531814da9e.jpg
cff1dc045b0995f29ac8a9fa5e65a9d4.jpg
8fb6f52c4940c2509069e8c79f6e55f7.jpg
Technically, the skid is supposed to be attached to the Axle using the same screws (ok, longer versions of the same screws) that attach the rear upper link bracket to the axle. However, since this is a machined rear axle, and the bracket is part of the axle, I'll be using some E6000. The skid is made of 3 pieces - the skid, the top mounting piece, and the rear connecting piece, with the top piece & skid each attached to the rear piece via 2 screws. I plan to attach the rear & top pieces to the axle with E6000. This way, the skid is still "detachable", allowing access to the axle via the 3rd member.

Speaking of the rear axle, and the 3rd member, the fitment is so fine, you'd be hard-pressed to find the meeting point of the two pieces from further than a few inches...the tolerance is that tight. Gotta love Vitavon Racing Development.
711163749f7b6f0997602c1b4b0e78f7.jpg
6ccaf46a6eda3005f2e7024818ab9c33.jpg
015fb88b9ad4826c962406df962e881d.jpg


~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
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I knew this would happen, but after three packs? Disappointed. Maybe order some beefier rods (Custom length) with some M5 steel/aluminum ends?

<a href="https://ibb.co/X2NZ1HV"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/f1BYfJQ/0679121-B-5387-4238-8-D4-F-7724-CCEB1-BE3.jpg" alt="0679121-B-5387-4238-8-D4-F-7724-CCEB1-BE3" border="0"></a>


Just get the vanquish links. Iv had mine for a couple years and have never hade a problem. You do need a couple .5 washers to take up the slack where they mount to your diff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just get the vanquish links. Iv had mine for a couple years and have never hade a problem. You do need a couple .5 washers to take up the slack where they mount to your diff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These are the vanquish links…:ror: they are awesome! The play they took out of the axle was amazing (99% due to the rod ends)! Alas, they weren’t up for the job at hand…:cry: On the rear bracing for the cage, those are aluminum links. But I didn’t feel that would be sufficient for the punishment the four link takes.
And I used 1 mm shims on the bulkhead side, but didn’t feel I needed it on the axle because of how much the plastic took up the slack when I tightened the bolts. if that makes sense… Reference my previous posts for pictures. Appreciate you brother!
 
Received my Vitavon Racing rear axle today (he even anodized it black, as I asked), as well as the T-Bone Racing rear axle skid. Although not actually built (still waiting on parts, including the bearings), here's what they look like together.
b4f6d695989d568410c5f67996961065.jpg
186648998d59a6486c2502531814da9e.jpg
cff1dc045b0995f29ac8a9fa5e65a9d4.jpg
8fb6f52c4940c2509069e8c79f6e55f7.jpg
Technically, the skid is supposed to be attached to the Axle using the same screws (ok, longer versions of the same screws) that attach the rear upper link bracket to the axle. However, since this is a machined rear axle, and the bracket is part of the axle, I'll be using some E6000. The skid is made of 3 pieces - the skid, the top mounting piece, and the rear connecting piece, with the top piece & skid each attached to the rear piece via 2 screws. I plan to attach the rear & top pieces to the axle with E6000. This way, the skid is still "detachable", allowing access to the axle via the 3rd member.

Speaking of the rear axle, and the 3rd member, the fitment is so fine, you'd be hard-pressed to find the meeting point of the two pieces from further than a few inches...the tolerance is that tight. Gotta love Vitavon Racing Development.
711163749f7b6f0997602c1b4b0e78f7.jpg
6ccaf46a6eda3005f2e7024818ab9c33.jpg
015fb88b9ad4826c962406df962e881d.jpg


~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]


That axle looks sweet!! In my opinion brother, I wouldn’t even worry about the skid plate. It hardly touches the ground as it is and that would just add more possibilities of it scraping (in a bad way?). Plus that axle looks bulletproof! :twisted:
 
That axle looks sweet!! In my opinion brother, I wouldn’t even worry about the skid plate. It hardly touches the ground as it is and that would just add more possibilities of it scraping (in a bad way?). Plus that axle looks bulletproof! :twisted:
Well, if it never touches the ground, then fantastic...and, if it were to, the skid (which is made of Delrin...VERY hard) will protect the 'artwork' that is the axle. I call it 'artwork' because Vitavon Racing designs gorgeous pieces of fairly-bulletproof parts.

I've got a few Vitavon parts on my 1st Capra, and they're great. While I don't have the Vitavon Capra axles, those who do say their "the best" (tho, that was before Vanquish came out with theirs...I think someone should do a side-by-side). I've seen the Vitavon rear axle on the UDR, and "bulletproof" would be an excellent word to use.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

UPDATE: It will take 24hrs for the E6000 to completely dry, but it's already 1hr in. After applying to each part, waiting 10min for it to become "tacky", 'marrying' the skid & axle, and making certain everything was aligned properly, I cleaned up the excess. Here's what it looks like.
cc35b3179227282246d09afe2161eea1.jpg
e969451254a252e793a5e11f8f05e7a9.jpg

I had to toss this third photo in, just because it gave me a much-needed laugh. "Here's looking at you, kid."
5e7c9bf834d26d90b0d1459fe09cca78.jpg
 
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Well, if it never touches the ground, then fantastic...and, if it were to, the skid (which is made of Delrin...VERY hard) will protect the 'artwork' that is the axle. I call it 'artwork' because Vitavon Racing designs gorgeous pieces of fairly-bulletproof parts.

I've got a few Vitavon parts on my 1st Capra, and they're great. While I don't have the Vitavon Capra axles, those who do say their "the best" (tho, that was before Vanquish came out with theirs...I think someone should do a side-by-side). I've seen the Vitavon rear axle on the UDR, and "bulletproof" would be an excellent word to use.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

UPDATE: It will take 24hrs for the E6000 to completely dry, but it's already 1hr in. After applying to each part, waiting 10min for it to become "tacky", 'marrying' the skid & axle, and making certain everything was aligned properly, I cleaned up the excess. Here's what it looks like.
cc35b3179227282246d09afe2161eea1.jpg
e969451254a252e793a5e11f8f05e7a9.jpg

I had to toss this third photo in, just because it gave me a much-needed laugh. "Here's looking at you, kid."
5e7c9bf834d26d90b0d1459fe09cca78.jpg

I love it! Looks more like a “Stellaaaaa” to me. :lmao:
What about a small bead of gasket maker around the third member? And these Vitavon Is definitely a quality product!

“Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine…” 8)
 
Received my Vitavon Racing rear axle today (he even anodized it black, as I asked), as well as the T-Bone Racing rear axle skid. Although not actually built (still waiting on parts, including the bearings), here's what they look like together.
b4f6d695989d568410c5f67996961065.jpg
186648998d59a6486c2502531814da9e.jpg
cff1dc045b0995f29ac8a9fa5e65a9d4.jpg
8fb6f52c4940c2509069e8c79f6e55f7.jpg
Technically, the skid is supposed to be attached to the Axle using the same screws (ok, longer versions of the same screws) that attach the rear upper link bracket to the axle. However, since this is a machined rear axle, and the bracket is part of the axle, I'll be using some E6000. The skid is made of 3 pieces - the skid, the top mounting piece, and the rear connecting piece, with the top piece & skid each attached to the rear piece via 2 screws. I plan to attach the rear & top pieces to the axle with E6000. This way, the skid is still "detachable", allowing access to the axle via the 3rd member.

Speaking of the rear axle, and the 3rd member, the fitment is so fine, you'd be hard-pressed to find the meeting point of the two pieces from further than a few inches...the tolerance is that tight. Gotta love Vitavon Racing Development.
711163749f7b6f0997602c1b4b0e78f7.jpg
6ccaf46a6eda3005f2e7024818ab9c33.jpg
015fb88b9ad4826c962406df962e881d.jpg


~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

That is gorgeous! I was going to pick one up if I couldn't find the vanquish one, but got lucky and someone had a new one for sale. Did you pick up the skids off of eBay?
 
That is gorgeous! I was going to pick one up if I couldn't find the vanquish one, but got lucky and someone had a new one for sale. Did you pick up the skids off of eBay?
Can't remember if I ordered through eBay, or if I ordered direct from T-Bone Racing (I've got too many different orders right now, and having "difficulty" keeping track...lol).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
Can't remember if I ordered through eBay, or if I ordered direct from T-Bone Racing (I've got too many different orders right now, and having "difficulty" keeping track...lol).

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]


Found it! Thank you. Looks like they have 2 different versions and the first one I was looking at was sold out.
 
Found it! Thank you. Looks like they have 2 different versions and the first one I was looking at was sold out.
Yes, 2 different - one with rear bumper, and one without. Obviously, mine is 'without'.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
 
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