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Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck
- Thread starter grunt95
- Start date
ser3100
RCC Addict
with the 10t is it more punchy? or does it have more top end? Im looking to get a bit better batt life out of it. Im running 3s 5000mah packs. Not bad but i do notice the motor getting a bit hot.
More punchy and less top end. I think this particular moter is going to get hot no matter what you do though.
ser3100
RCC Addict
thanks!
neon9
Pebble Pounder
I run the 10 tooth on 2s and doesn't stutter anymore on takeoff and clocked it with my radar gun in my backyard at 32 mph.which is still pretty good for a 10 tooth pinion.you guys might want to also check the timing feature on your speed control it's supposed to be set at 0 mine was set at Max. once I change that it helped it out a lot too
Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
TTDRIVER13
Pebble Pounder
I have ran into them while searching but I like this forum best out of all those. The window nets are pure aesthetics. The air flow is a bonus but like you said, not really needed. I dint like the two person template that goes in their. Planning on getting rid of the radiator out back and run a dual rear spare set up as well. Ultimate goal will be to build a real cage for it down the road.
Do you guys use grease for your ring and pinion in the front and silicone oil inside the diff?
Also working on some solid rear links.
ser3100
RCC Addict
Let us know if those uppers work cause i see a light bend in my stock uppers from my son crashing yesterday. First real dirt testing yesterday as ive been tied up with work and other things and i gotta say this thing is a beauty compared to my yeti score truck. It seems to float over the terrain much better than the yeti.
TTDRIVER13
Pebble Pounder
When you move the wheels left to right off the ground their is a lot of "play/movement" in the two "towers" of the steering linkage. I may not be using the right terminology. This may just be my truck but the ones I have seen and handle all have this problem. The picture details what I am referring to "steering towers". I have a servo on the way but idk that the servo is the actual problem or the play in the towers. The play/movement is a vertical movement when you move the wheels, it's really bad. I have eliminated all play and will be running stock servo till it dies before upgrading to find out if the servo is the actual problem but I think the play is the actual culprit. I know and understand any rtr servo is a very low end generic servo but I want to give it a chance and some abuse to see if it will hold up after the steering play fix I am working on.
ser3100
RCC Addict
I noticed that too. Gonna eventually put a spacer to fill that void and see if it does anything.
fyrstormer
RCC Addict
Swapping the cheap Hobbywing ESC for a better one also solves the stuttering problem. I haven't had any issues with my motor getting too hot running with the stock pinion on 2S; on 3S it would probably be too much, but I don't have any 3S packs.
fyrstormer
RCC Addict
Sounds like yours is going to be a lot more beefy than mine is. The stock cage *is* real, by the way, it's just made of plastic so it's flexible. But it does provide structural support, it's not just decorative.
I greased the center gearbox gears and the ring/pinion gears on both diffs. I filled the center diff with 30K silicone oil after seeing how fast the 10K oil I originally used got turned into grey goo. I put a fingerfull of grease in the front diff, because to get the front diff as open as I wanted, I would've had to use silicone oil so thin it would've provided no lubrication at all. Silicone is not suitable for lubricating metal-on-metal, but we use it in gear-diffs anyway because the benefit of limited-slip action is a worthwhile tradeoff for shorter gear lifetime. But the thinner the silicone oil is, the faster the gears will wear down, so at a certain point it's better to switch to grease.
Sounds like a good idea. My plastic links are holding up fine, but there's nothing wrong with making them stronger. (unless they end up transferring force to a more expensive part, of course.)
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fyrstormer
RCC Addict
I hadn't noticed up/down movement in the steering assembly, but that's something worth checking.
The stock servo is junk, and you will notice the spline hub starting to wobble pretty soon if not already. That wobbling contributes significantly to the play in the steering assembly, because the amount of the wobbling is amplified by the length of the servo horn.
There will always be some amount of play in the steering assembly, but once you get a good servo and a metal servo-horn in there, the remaining play won't actually affect the handling of the truck.
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TTDRIVER13
Pebble Pounder
Upper links are good to go!! Makes the rear end Solid, hard to explain but it is firm, not flimsy. Only thing you have to do is add some .015/.016" washers/shims to each side of the pivot to take up the .038" gap difference in width. The dude that I got the idea from ran them as is and I personally don't recommend it, to much play in the rear end. The servo saver mod work beautifully. I added a .026"thk washer between the aluminum brace and the upper servo saver mount and a .013"thk e clip between the upper servo saver mount and the bearing. I get no vertical play at all and steering is just so solid now as well with stock servo and added an aluminum steering horn. I have a savox 1258 in the tool box on call as soon as this one craps out but I have absolutely no complaints on stock servo up to this point and has not failed even after hitting a couple curves [emoji15]. I also removed the fans out back and replaced them with a 3/16" o.d. Ss rod taped at both ends 2.5x4.5mm tap and tig welded a small tab for the on and off switch. Doubles as a solid carry handle as well. I have a full list of mods/upgrades I have done if anyone is interested, most I have picked up from here and some from what I seen and liked and din't like. Tomorrow will be shock and suspension tuning. Going to start with a simple oil upgrade to 35wt and set ride height and hopefully, crossing my fingers go for a shake down test to a local spot from way back, hope it's still their and in decent form.
I like the idea of rebound in my shocks, what's your preferred ratio?? 3/4 rebound front and 1/2 out back???
I like the idea of rebound in my shocks, what's your preferred ratio?? 3/4 rebound front and 1/2 out back???
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ser3100
RCC Addict
I like the rear links but do you think they will hold up? I see you only have the rod ends screwed down half way. I went to my LHS yesterday and was about to pick up the same setup as you but saw that they were a bit short. Your pic now confirms this. I realize i could sleeve the remaining thread with a spacer but im concerned that with not enough "bite" they might have the tendency to pull apart on a hard hit. Please correct me if im wrong. I really want to try it out.
TTDRIVER13
Pebble Pounder
Well I dint measure the actual threads on the shafts themselves but I did measure the amount of threads exposed in an effort to get both links as close to factory as possible and as close to each other as possible. That measurement yielded .130". I don't think it's fair to say their in about half way because their is way more than 1/4" of threads on the shaft so my best guess would be their about 3/4 of the way in making the threads about 1/2" on the shaft and sounds about right if I remember correctly. I will be doing some bashing around today hopefully and let you know. I have about a battery on this new set up and it's unreal how solid the truck is now compared to stock and that's with out a cage and a solid support added in replacement of the rear fans. So I can only see it getting more solid when I throw the cage back on today. The stock upper links I could squeeze while mounted on the car and have them almost touch each other in the middle, I tried squeezing these new ones with my finger and they maybe moved like .020" and that's squeezing pretty hard. I'm pretty confident with the new links. Plans are to make some new aluminum upper links down the road when I get some time.
ser3100
RCC Addict
I hear ya! Im debating on either your method or sleeving some all thread from the local hardware store and using revo rod ends. Im sure either way is better than the stock plastic links. yeah let us know how they hold up. Thanks.
TTDRIVER13
Pebble Pounder
Tuned the suspension today and gave it its first official bash session. WOW... This truck is incredible what it can do. I've had a sct, monster truck and buggy in the past and absolutely nothing compares to this thing. It will literally eat ANYTHING you throw at it. The new upper links held up beautifully. Going to go ahead and install the savox servo, not because of failure just want to be clear it has held up fine and has done its job and still is but because it's not enough servo for this truck as most of you have pointed out- thank you for that, motor heat sink fan as a preventive.
Suspension settings sit at
Front
3/4 rebound
35w losi oil
50/50 travel
Rear
Stock oil 30wt
60/40 travel
Tip: mark the collar on your shock on 4 quadrants with white out or something to make easy adjustments. Setting the rebound in the shocks was a pain or maybe I dint have the right technique, eventually I got it but took a while and some fennecs. Also remove foam from battery door. So much easier to close, open and work leads.
Suspension settings sit at
Front
3/4 rebound
35w losi oil
50/50 travel
Rear
Stock oil 30wt
60/40 travel
Tip: mark the collar on your shock on 4 quadrants with white out or something to make easy adjustments. Setting the rebound in the shocks was a pain or maybe I dint have the right technique, eventually I got it but took a while and some fennecs. Also remove foam from battery door. So much easier to close, open and work leads.
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LGrocks
Pebble Pounder
Great info. But please explain setting "rebound". How is that done on these shocks?
TTDRIVER13
Pebble Pounder
Sorry I will probably just confuse you and a lot of the industry runs their rebound at zero/ no rebound but I believe in it and wanted to try it out so I did. I don't know why but it was difficult to get my rebound right, it took me a few tries. Shocks are different of those with bladders up top. These have a bleed screw and an oring. Hopefully the video clears it up for you.
http://youtu.be/HNJy7kreK90
LGrocks
Pebble Pounder
Awesome. Learn something new everyday. Your right, the video explains it well.