Losi Baja Rey 1/10th 4WD RTR desert truck

[fyrstormer]

Tip: mark the collar on your shock on 4 quadrants with white out or something to make easy adjustments. Setting the rebound in the shocks was a pain or maybe I dint have the right technique, eventually I got it but took a while and some fennecs.

I'm not sure I want to know what you did to those poor little foxes.

 

[fyrstormer]

Sorry I will probably just confuse you and a lot of the industry runs their rebound at zero/ no rebound but I believe in it and wanted to try it out so I did. I don't know why but it was difficult to get my rebound right, it took me a few tries. Shocks are different of those with bladders up top. These have a bleed screw and an oring. Hopefully the video clears it up for you.

Interesting. I've always run my shocks with as much rebound as possible -- not intentionally, but because I want as much oil as possible in the shock so the piston doesn't pop out through the surface of the oil and start churning air into the oil. I also spend hours building each set of shocks, flushing out every last tiny little air bubble and letting them float to the surface.

I haven't looked in the Baja Rey's shocks yet; do they have bladders or just O-rings?

 

[TTDRIVER13]

I haven't looked in the Baja Rey's shocks yet; do they have bladders or just O-rings?

They got and oring, plastic cap, and a collar that holds everything in place. Than theirs a bleed screw. After filling shocks to rim and assembling them their is still air inside the cap portion of the shock and had to fill that up with a syringe. Funky...

 

[TTDRIVER13]

Here's a short clip of yesterday's shenanigans.

http://youtu.be/3etnLbTChMU

 

[fyrstormer]

They got and oring, plastic cap, and a collar that holds everything in place. Than theirs a bleed screw. After filling shocks to rim and assembling them their is still air inside the cap portion of the shock and had to fill that up with a syringe. Funky...

Um...if you fill the shocks completely with oil, there will be no room for the shock shafts inside the shock bodies. There has to be some air that can compress to accommodate the space the shafts take up when they slide into the shock bodies. I prefer it when the air is separated from the oil by rubber bladders, though I've heard some people prefer the air to be exposed to the oil so the shock pistons can churn the air into the oil. That temporarily thins-out the shock oil when driving on rough ground. I've never liked that tuning trick though; I want my shocks to behave the same on all terrain, and I'll adjust my driving style instead.

 

[TTDRIVER13]

Um...if you fill the shocks completely with oil, there will be no room for the shock shafts inside the shock bodies. There has to be some air that can compress to accommodate the space the shafts take up when they slide into the shock bodies. I prefer it when the air is separated from the oil by rubber bladders, though I've heard some people prefer the air to be exposed to the oil so the shock pistons can churn the air into the oil. That temporarily thins-out the shock oil when driving on rough ground. I've never liked that tuning trick though; I want my shocks to behave the same on all terrain, and I'll adjust my driving style instead.

After I filled them up is when I bleed them to my desired rebound, so some of it came back out.

 

[TTDRIVER13]

Here's another one from today..https://youtu.be/vCcaPfmBG4E

 

[fyrstormer]

After I filled them up is when I bleed them to my desired rebound, so some of it came back out.

Ah, okay.

 

[badhoopty]

proper way to tune emulsion style shocks is to emulsify the shock before you run it. ever see racers pump their shocks before putting the car down? thats why.

 

[TTDRIVER13]

Tried rebound and shocks had no rebound the next day after use. So screw rebound, I thicken up the oil to 40wtf/35wtr and runing zero rebound now. For the rough terrain I am running it seems to be hooking up incredible..

What battery are you running and what's your run time???

I am running a 6200mah 40c and getting a little over 20min.

Also side note, ditched the avc completely and running a non avc receiver. Couldn't be happier!!

 

[TTDRIVER13]

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[TTDRIVER13]

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[CM9000]

I hear ya! Im debating on either your method or sleeving some all thread from the local hardware store and using revo rod ends. Im sure either way is better than the stock plastic links. yeah let us know how they hold up. Thanks.

there is a revo rod that is long enough with the long rod ends.

I mentioned it a few pages or so ago.

^^ that steering thing? never seen that.

and my truck already won a race in blown out farm dirt.

 

[TTDRIVER13]

Slow mo, suspensions so plush.
https://youtu.be/5j16owsPd-s

 

[TTDRIVER13]

After reading around online I seen a thread that a lot of people where having issues with their rear ends. I wasn't having any but as a preventive Measure decided to take mine apart and see what's in their.. Good thing I did!! Clean, grease/lube and back in she goes. It was bone DRy... My ring and pinion are showing some wear, dirt all inside the housing and it's got a spool!!! Going to need a new set of gears down the road and maybe sooner than later... On a lighter note losi reached out and is sending me a new steering system they want me to try out..[emoji1316][emoji16]

Spoke to soon, couple seized bearings.

 

[fyrstormer]

proper way to tune emulsion style shocks is to emulsify the shock before you run it. ever see racers pump their shocks before putting the car down? thats why.

I guess that would speed up the auto-adjustment process if you know you're going to be driving on rough terrain. Otherwise you can let the bumps emulsify the oil for you.

Personally I hate the feeling of air bubbles in my shock oil. I'll spend hours building a set of shocks, slowly compressing and extending them, then letting them sit, getting every last tiny air bubble out. If I want softer shocks I'll use thinner oil.

 

[fyrstormer]

Also side note, ditched the avc completely and running a non avc receiver. Couldn't be happier!!

I switched to a non-AVC receiver and a standalone steering gyro. Works exactly the way I expect it to now.

After reading around online I seen a thread that a lot of people where having issues with their rear ends. I wasn't having any but as a preventive Measure decided to take mine apart and see what's in their.. Good thing I did!! Clean, grease/lube and back in she goes. It was bone DRy... My ring and pinion are showing some wear, dirt all inside the housing and it's got a spool!!!

Some wear is fine, the gear teeth need to polish each other so they will be more slippery in the future. Rough surfaces create drag. Also, the rear end is supposed to have a spool; based on my experiments, trucks with IFS/SRS suspension exhibit horrible torque-steer if the rear axle isn't locked. It's better this way; let the center diff manage traction in place of having a rear diff.

My gears were "lubed" with thick, sticky silicone. Better than nothing, but only very slightly better than nothing. I started getting longer runtimes after I made sure everything was properly greased.

On a lighter note losi reached out and is sending me a new steering system they want me to try out..[emoji1316][emoji16]

DETAILS? My steering is fine but I'll never turn down a better design.

Spoke to soon, couple seized bearings.

I really like Boca Yellow Seal ceramic bearings. If you can get those to seize, Boca might send you a prize or something. I've run them through mud and water, and I even run them un-lubed in nitro clutch bells so they don't spray grease inside the clutch bell, and they just don't fail. Worth every penny if you hate replacing bearings.

 

[TTDRIVER13]

I have nothing on the steering yet but will post up when I get the parts in. Thanks for the recommendation on bearings, he is suppose to be shipping me some as well but I will keep that in mind if it's in on going problem.

 

[wrightcs77]

Make sure to check your timing in your esc. Mine had timing programmed in from the factory.

 

[TTDRIVER13]

Make sure to check your timing in your esc. Mine had timing programmed in from the factory.

Thanks for that, mine was turned up as well.

As for the steering vertical play, this is what losi sent me. The smaller post. I still had to run the eclip behind the bearing to eliminate some of the vertical play on the threaded tower.