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Jato Repents with a VS4-10 Origin Limited Kit

JatoTheRipper

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WHAT?! Jato, the biggest anti-VP guy ever, is building a Vanquish kit?!

Yes...

For those that may or may not know I really was the most anti-Vanquish person ever at one time. Some would say troll, douchebag, or worse. That's fine. I was! Some would say I still am, but haters are always gonna hate and DILLIGAF? :lmao:

It wasn't until I tried Vanquish parts, little by little, that I started to understand it. They really do make high quality stuff albeit at a premium. But being Made in the USA, I don't mind paying a little premium. That brings up a caveat. I'm not sure how much of the Origin Limited is made in the USA.

I definitely want to say sorry VP Monkey, VP Dan, Brandon, Harley and anybody else that works or has worked at Vanquish. I dogged it before I tried it. The more I saw the Vanquish guys talk about the modular chassis and the more info they methodically released the more I became interested. And the VFD transmission pushed me over that hump and made me want one. It's an innovation like we haven't seen in the RC world before as it's a completely different take on a scaler transmission.

So, in the end, Vanquish is getting my money and they are getting the last laugh! They win.

I am known for nitpicking and being critical and that isn't suddenly going to stop. When you are talking a $900 kit (I got mine for much less), I think you have more right to nitpick than you do with a $300 kit. But if I have any criticisms I will try to keep them constructive. So that's a warning for the faint of heart if you think somebody shouldn't criticize products.

Anyway, onto the build. Why did I choose the Limited over the Pro? Mostly because of the axles. The D44 axles look so much better to me on a trail truck than do the fabricated axles. I also prefer the Limited body over the Pro's truck version.

The first problem was that the Limited was, sadly, discontinued when I decided to pull the proverbial trigger. I was lucky to find some in Taiwan. The box says 'Made in Taiwan" so I guess I got mine from the motherland...sort of. I chose the clear kit because I think it looks better, even if not as scale as the black, and because I think it would drive me bonkers to constantly look at the missing, black anodizing after the rocks had scratched it off. I know it's going to happen with the "clear" as well, but hopefully it drives me less bonkers. I can't get much more bonkers before I become certifiable! :mrgreen:

After a 2-week wait I received a box inside of a box. The outer box was a world traveler. You can tell by all these stamped printed in a language that looks like abstract art to this cracker! :lmao:




Inside of that box was the jackpot! I found this jackpot without even chasing rainbows and fighting leprechauns!




I got serial number A1811353. Hopefully the cool kids aren't censoring that like they censor the license plate on their cars and motorcycles when bragging about said vehicle on "the" social media. :lmao:




And here is the parts haul that I plan to use during this build. Here you see two sets of MR310 wheels (Clear and grey. I told you Vanquish was getting my money), SLW (225 and 350), disc brake weights for the front, servo horn, servo extensions and my now go-to ESC which is the Castle Mamba X. I used to hate Castle as much as Vanquish, but that was due to me hating their old products. With the X series I think Castle did a 180 degree turn and now they make great stuff.

The reason for the different SLW hub sizes is because I want to use the smaller 225 hubs with the disc brake weights which will hopefully equal the offset of the 350 hubs.




I think most people have seen this before, but the presentation of the pretty, machined, aluminum parts is very cool. It's a shame that the layered, multi-colored, laser-cut foam will never be used after the parts are taken out of the packaging.




Get a lil' closer. Don't be shy! So pretty...even without makeup. :lmao:




My plan for this truck is to build it stock except for the brake disc weights and the wheels. Plastic beadlocks belong in the trash IMO. I know some people still like them, but I do not. I will be using a set of the MR310 wheels which, coincidentally, are my first set(s) of Vanquish wheels. I do own Incision wheels, but not Vanquish wheels. Although, I guess that's untrue because I do own SHR wheels and they are sold as a Vanquish part rather than Incision. I've never used my SHR's though so these will be the first Vanquish wheels that I own and actually run.

After running the truck I plan to eventually get a Pro kit for comparison and to have both. If I decide against that, I will upgrade this truck to a faux Pro" with the VFD transmission kit. "Faux Pro"...I need to trademark that. :lmao:
 
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Nice! You’re going to enjoy that build. It goes together so well.

Congrats on the new rig Tim. I’m a fan of the D44 axles myself as well.
 
Definitely, enjoy. I decided to return the VS4-10 Pro kit, especially since I ordered the Trail King Pro...but, maybe I'll eventually get it (again?). In the meantime, I'll be reading your build thread. Congrats on 'overcoming' the anti-Vanquish "disease".

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
Nice! I eventually will get this kit, but for now... I have just the chassis kit and VFD transmission for a project.
 
Congrats and welcome to the Origin family!"thumbsup"

You're going to love the way these go together. The design and engineering that went into these kits make them the best kit(s) that I have put together. Every part just seems to fall into place.

You may have already thought about this, but I would recommend getting the new plastic PRO chassis braces that are now available. These are a great upgrade from the stock aluminum braces. They add much more strength to the chassis and have nice little added features like the winch line hole in the front brace and the rear fuel cell in the rear brace. They also have a place to install a DIG servo if you wanted to go that route.

Nice looking Method 310's. I just installed a pair of orange on my Origin. I decided to use the 350 hubs with Beef Tube Beef Patties and the stance looks great with the Origin body.

I agree with Mike, the VFD trans is an excellent upgrade! I have replaced my 3 gear trans in my Origin with the new VFD and it is a must have! And don't get me wrong, the stock 3 gear trans is awesome and well built and I have not had a bit of trouble out of it.

Subscribed and looking forward to following along with the build!:)
 
I had to look up DILLIGAF. I'm old and I don't understand these new fancy acronyms I read all the time. Well, except MILF.

Carry on.
 
Hmm... Whats going on here :mrgreen:

You may have already thought about this, but I would recommend getting the new plastic PRO chassis braces that are now available. These are a great upgrade from the stock aluminum braces. They add much more strength to the chassis and have nice little added features like the winch line hole in the front brace and the rear fuel cell in the rear brace. They also have a place to install a DIG servo if you wanted to go that route.

I was going to say the same, but Brian beat me to it. We spent a lot of time making sure the plastic replacements were an upgrade over the original. I know it sounds weird, but yes the plastic parts mated with the Pro bumpers are an upgrade.

If you plan to run the VFD check out SVT's build thread and how he modified his skid plate to work with the machined braces. Again the easier route would be to run the new molded chassis braces.

Subscribed.
 
Congrats and welcome to the Origin family!"thumbsup"

You're going to love the way these go together. The design and engineering that went into these kits make them the best kit(s) that I have put together. Every part just seems to fall into place.

You may have already thought about this, but I would recommend getting the new plastic PRO chassis braces that are now available. These are a great upgrade from the stock aluminum braces. They add much more strength to the chassis and have nice little added features like the winch line hole in the front brace and the rear fuel cell in the rear brace. They also have a place to install a DIG servo if you wanted to go that route.

Nice looking Method 310's. I just installed a pair of orange on my Origin. I decided to use the 350 hubs with Beef Tube Beef Patties and the stance looks great with the Origin body.

I agree with Mike, the VFD trans is an excellent upgrade! I have replaced my 3 gear trans in my Origin with the new VFD and it is a must have! And don't get me wrong, the stock 3 gear trans is awesome and well built and I have not had a bit of trouble out of it.

Subscribed and looking forward to following along with the build!:)

Thanks for the info although I am puzzled that the plastic is an upgrade over the aluminum. LOL


I had to look up DILLIGAF. I'm old and I don't understand these new fancy acronyms I read all the time. Well, except MILF.

Carry on.

Haha. I think that acronym is older than us! And it’s “lit”!


Hmm... Whats going on here :mrgreen:



I was going to say the same, but Brian beat me to it. We spent a lot of time making sure the plastic replacements were an upgrade over the original. I know it sounds weird, but yes the plastic parts mated with the Pro bumpers are an upgrade.

If you plan to run the VFD check out SVT's build thread and how he modified his skid plate to work with the machined braces. Again the easier route would be to run the new molded chassis braces.

Subscribed.

Nothing. Nothing to see here... :lmao:


So the original, plastic braces were upgraded to aluminum to prevent bending frame rails and then they were upgraded again to plastic on the Pro?

Besides the issues that you and B-MOW mentioned, are there any other reasons I wouldn’t want to use the aluminum braces? The chassis is already built and I was already impressed with the rigidity compared to the competition.
 
So the original, plastic braces were upgraded to aluminum to prevent bending frame rails and then they were upgraded again to plastic on the Pro?

Besides the issues that you and B-MOW mentioned, are there any other reasons I wouldn’t want to use the aluminum braces? The chassis is already built and I was already impressed with the rigidity compared to the competition.

My biased opinion is yes, they are an improvement.

The entire chassis in the Pro was designed to be tied together from front to back. Even the VFD trans acts as a triangulated brace between the skid plate and front servo/bumper mount.

The rear fuel cell chassis brace is tied into the battery trays that are tied into the side guards at the center of the chassis / skid plate. It also fills the frame rails from the bumper mount all the way to the mid section of the rise in the chassis behind the skid plate.

All these changes were made to increase rigidity. There are still a few area's on your Limited that are not braced. It could be argued that you do not need bracing there. But for the sake of argument the molded Pro chassis components addressed that.

I like your direction of building the Limited as is and picking up a Pro Kit to compliment it. There is a noticeable difference between the 2, which is to be expected with the evolution of a product.
 
My biased opinion is yes, they are an improvement.

The entire chassis in the Pro was designed to be tied together from front to back. Even the VFD trans acts as a triangulated brace between the skid plate and front servo/bumper mount.

The rear fuel cell chassis brace is tied into the battery trays that are tied into the side guards at the center of the chassis / skid plate. It also fills the frame rails from the bumper mount all the way to the mid section of the rise in the chassis behind the skid plate.

All these changes were made to increase rigidity. There are still a few area's on your Limited that are not braced. It could be argued that you do not need bracing there. But for the sake of argument the molded Pro chassis components addressed that.

I like your direction of building the Limited as is and picking up a Pro Kit to compliment it. There is a noticeable difference between the 2, which is to be expected with the evolution of a product.

Thanks for the input. I do see areas where the chassis isn’t braced, but I think it’ll be fine for what I do. I think I’m going to continue the build using the aluminum chassis braces. I do like the fuel cell receiver box so I may order the plastic parts anyway.
 
Thanks for the into Jato, brought some levity to my lunch. Likely at the right time, it was a pretty dry sandwich.

Look forward to hearing your impressions. In my mind, I still place this one on the high shelf I can’t reach. The proverbial RC10 of my childhood. One day...
 
Thanks for the into Jato, brought some levity to my lunch. Likely at the right time, it was a pretty dry sandwich.

Look forward to hearing your impressions. In my mind, I still place this one on the high shelf I can’t reach. The proverbial RC10 of my childhood. One day...

Thanks! I appreciate it.

I could never afford an RC10 when I was a kid and my parents probably couldn't either. I'm lucky enough to be able to afford the scale toys that I want. I look at it this way. Instead of buying three new trucks I bought this one. It's already upgraded and it takes up much less room than three trucks. :lmao:

I also wanted to say thank you to the rest of the replies. I forgot to do that earlier.

I received my Tekin T-360 servo today, but I am still awaiting my shock oil and other stuff from RPP Hobby including a Hitec HS-7954 servo. I'm not sure which I'm going to put in this truck and which I'm going to save for the Trail King that my girlfriend bought me for Christmas. I'm pretty sure this truck will get the T-360. This order from RPP is taking forever so the build is mostly on hold until then. But the actual build is farther along than this thread so I guess I should catch it up.
 
I also wanted to say thank you to the rest of the replies. I forgot to do that earlier.

I received my Tekin T-360 servo today, but I am still awaiting my shock oil and other stuff from RPP Hobby including a Hitec HS-7954 servo. I'm not sure which I'm going to put in this truck and which I'm going to save for the Trail King that my girlfriend bought me for Christmas. I'm pretty sure this truck will get the T-360. This order from RPP is taking forever so the build is mostly on hold until then. But the actual build is farther along than this thread so I guess I should catch it up.

You're very welcome for all my replies. :mrgreen:

T360 with a VP 20mm servo horn is a perfect fit in the VS4-10 chassis. Then use the Tekin horn included with the servo in the TK (Its nice, just doesnt fit the VS chassis).
 
Step A-1 is building the front axle. Starting at the front totally makes total sense, like totally.

My iPhone XS Max, which is my first after being a lifelong Android die-hard, had to get the camera replaced for the second time in 4 months. I made the switch to Apple solely because of their great cameras and my obsession with taking photos of my RCs (and other things, but mostly RC's). Yes, my smartphone purchase was based on RCs. Luckily I did not lose any photos of this build. Anybody want to buy an iPhone? There's a Pixel 4 XL with my name on it...

You may notice the pretty and festive, fall-themed work mat. That is because it's almost winter and the garage is cold and my RC workbench is a freaking nightmare so the dining room table has become my temporary workbench much to the chagrin of my girlfriend. Oh well, she'll get over it. :ror:

Vanquish took the awesome step of individually bagging each, well, step. Inside each step bag, not to be confused with your stepmother, is more bagged parts. This makes finding parts so much easier and it really adds to the pleasure of a build IMO. I love when companies do this. Ease of use is through the roof.




On this build, I used the Vanquish grease, which desperately needs a cool name. My vote is for Vanquish Venom. It seemed silly to me to use any other lube, for the sake of brand continuity, and I'm a big fan of this grease anyway. The internals are nothing out of the ordinary other than the unequal length universals.




Everything went smoothly until I got to the short universal. The bearing seat was too large and this is as far as I could slide the 10x15x4mm bearing. If you build enough RCs you realize this isn't an uncommon issue. I got out some fine grit sandpaper and took a little bit of material off to seat the bearing.




These things are a PITA! I think understand why they use them - better to replace these consumables for a few bucks rather than an entire housing due to stripped threads. They did test my impatience though...

I used a 1.5mm MIP driver to hold them in while I tightened the screw. I'm open to any other techniques from the peanut gallery.




Everything after the universal went together smoothly. Vanquish parts typically fall together. Here's the pumpkin cover and knuckles installed. The aluminum hexes are a nice touch. I was so tempted to use scale hardware here, but I was afraid rock rash would round off the already spotty heads. Some scale screw heads are great and others are ready to round from the factory.

It's at this point that I noticed the short universal was also causing a bind. Without it installed the axle is smooth as butter. As soon as the short universal is installed I got a bind on every rotation. I contacted Mr. Pham, sent him some photos and video, and a new one is on the way. This is nothing than any normal QC inspection would have caught because it looks completely fine.




I told you earlier that VP likes bags and I'm fine with that. This is all of the bags from step A-1. If you're a tree-humping, whale-saving hippy you may not be so found of them, but you'll get over it. :flipoff:



 
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S
I used a 1.5mm MIP driver to hold them in while I tightened the screw. I'm open to any other techniques from the peanut gallery.

Are you talking about holding the inserts in? I put a little bit of red grease on the outside of the insert and it was sticky enough to hold it in place when I assembled my axles.
 
Damn you Jato! Gonna get me in trouble! LOL.

Tell the wifey it's my fault if that's what you mean! :lmao:


Are you talking about holding the inserts in? I put a little bit of red grease on the outside of the insert and it was sticky enough to hold it in place when I assembled my axles.

Yep, I'm referring to the inserts. I thought of grease, but that holds a lot of grit and being that close to the ground it's not a great idea IMO. A drop of E6000 would probably do the trick now that I think about it.
 
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