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Interest in Rally?

The Sidewinder and the sct are the same thing. I know the box says that they are capable of 2-3 cell on low KV motors but no where could I find on Castle site what they consider a low kv motor. I can not remember where I saw it, but the 3800kv motor is too much for those esc's on 3 cell. I remember reading about where quite a few people were having issues with them doing that. Mine did not go up in smoke quite as bad as yours, but it only lasted a few minutes on 3 cell.

I hear ya on sidewinder being the same as an sct. 'Was' is in italics because it isn't an esc anymore :ror:
 
I was at the pick-up getting another pack when my buddy started yelling. It was blowing a lot of smoke and got really hot, like a short, and "fizzed" one of the corners. Luckily, it didn't burn anything in the truck except for scorching the pack that was in it.

I ordered another ESC for it, so hopefully the motor is still good.

Also, only the berms are loose. Most of the track is bumpy hard-pack.

Send it back to castle I am sure they will warranty it, I almost guarantee it.

Crazy though it does look like it caught on fire. Are you running the stock gearing? It does look like it was getting really hot, something melted, shorted out across the board and caught fire. That is my guess. Gear down a little and stick to 2 cell.

Even with my Mamba Max Pro it gets incredibly hot I think the 4 pole of that motor pulls too many amps.
 
Question: For the TC-3 Rally I have two options for ESC motor combos, one is a Sidewinder with 3800kv 4pole or Novak Havoc 3cell with either 10.5 or 8.5 motor. Both would run 2cell. What do you guys think?
 
ive always preferred novak for go fast and castle for basher/crawler....my .02 cents


now that ive finished project "wrong way" a front motor countersteer drift sprint2.... i can start working on the df03 casey is supposed to buy the rs4 rally tonight...if he doesnt come through i may just keep running that... ive got all the kinks worked out im pretty sure


IMG_20111209_085656.jpg
 
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ive always preferred novak for go fast and castle for basher/crawler....my .02 cents


now that ive finished project "wrong way" a front motor countersteer drift sprint2.... i can start working on the df03 casey is supposed to buy the rs4 rally tonight...if he doesnt come through i may just keep running that... ive got all the kinks worked out im pretty sure


IMG_20111209_085656.jpg

I was leaning towards the Novak, it's on my son's Blitz right now but I think the CC combo would be better suited for it anyway.


Nice Van! Reminds me of my RS4 sport front wheel drive dragger in built back in the day.
 
the funny thing is...as i was doing the conversion...i saw more and more that it was almost ment to be built like that...
 
Venom 5000mAh 20c


My theory is that the esc was pulling more amps than the battery could handle, causing a short in the battery, allowing it to heat up and send some heat back to the esc, along with a shorted cell, probably caused some issues. I've seen some melted mini revos before because of low c discharge batteries (those were usually 1800 or 2200mAh 20C batteries).

5Ah battery at 20c means 10 second burst of 200A, but constant of only 100A, I also wouldn't be surprised if the Venom batteries were overrated. It's at least something to consider when you replace the ESC.

I picked up an RS4 roller in a trade, and I am looking to make an e-conversion chassis for it to make a rally car. The Abomination truck is getting some 2.2 Dirt Hawgs (since it won't be allowed to run with the Mini Trophys...) and the same e-conversion chassis as well (only stretched to the truck wheelbase).

Anyone know an inexpensive laser or waterjet cutter in town that doesn't charge a file set-up fee? And where I can get some delrin sheet local without having to ship it from McMaster?
 
What thickness and how big? I think I have some 1/8" and some 3/16". I'll have to look tonight.

1/8" and 1/4" but 3/16 *might* work. The 1/8 would need to be big enough to get two TC chassis on it along with upper braces. Do you have my cell number?
 
1/8" and 1/4" but 3/16 *might* work. The 1/8 would need to be big enough to get two TC chassis on it along with upper braces. Do you have my cell number?

Don't have your number. I'll look when I get home, not sure how much I have.
 
So started work on the rally car and bought some Tamiya Rally Block Tires to see how much clearence I have and there is a good amount to start with. Cant wait to come and rally with you guys.
 
So started work on the rally car and bought some Tamiya Rally Block Tires to see how much clearence I have and there is a good amount to start with. Cant wait to come and rally with you guys.

3/4" max on belly clearance 1/2" is plenty for the cars.

Trying not to put a lot of rules on this stuff, but the overview as I said is for the TT class must appear to be a stock HPI mini trophy truck for Rally must be something you would see or have seen in the WRC, rally america, rally Britain, etc. Thats the over view, the goal is scale appearance not custom builds.


We have crawlers for customizing, I don't think we need to do it with the rally cars and trucks. This exists to have fun and to keep it simple. But also I started doing this because it looks cool and is challenging, if people are looking for loop holes and the upper hand with some special trick I can write ten pages of rules if you guys want.

This is mostly directed at Monkey. If you want to make custom rigs good for you, but this isn't about that. Im not trying to pick on anyone just saying to try and keep my feelings clear on the subject.

If anyone wants to participate in this rally stuff they are more then welcome to come out and use a loaner rig or buy a HPI TT, DF03ra, TB01, RS4, etc.

It really is a great time, so lets not over complicate it and just have fun."thumbsup"
 
This is mostly directed at Monkey.


It's not custom to get an edge on anything, it's custom so I can mount an electric motor and a lipo in a chassis designed for a nitro motor and replace a bent and beat to shit chassis that came with the trade. It's one of the vehicles you listed in the examples, so I don't see a problem with the rally car.
The truck started before this thread as something to do with almost a complete vehicle worth of extra parts, and is just simply an extended wheelbase RS4 (chassis from the MT2).
I like the RS4, even after some pretty crazy tumbles nothing broke. It uses hardened steel diffs (that are the same size as the Axial ring and pinions), and HPI plastic is pretty durable, so I never have to worry about parts breaking (compared to the Tamiyas that I've owned in the past).

The rally car will be scale looking (at least as scale as any other vehicle there) and the same as anything else on the track under the lid. I'm ordering the same rally block tires as everyone else and an Impreza body as soon as an ebay sale goes through, and it'll have a standard silver can motor on 2S. Nothing against the rules there.
The truck... well fine, if you want to bitch about it, whatever, it's not a trophy truck, it's not a dakar truck, it's not a rally car, so it's just my own thing, I won't run it with the TT's (even though I would have likely ended up dead last).

Nobody wants ten pages of rules, that takes the fun out of it, and I'm not looking for any loopholes or advantages. I'm also not here to make enemies.

It seems apparent that since i'm not "in" the "in" group my attempts to try to get something going so I can come play are being seen as attempts to try and cheat or be different only for the sake of being different. The one or two events that I can even make it to I will probably end up near the back of the pack (not much practice time) but I don't do this for "glory" or to win, I just want to have fun, and these are definitely more fun with other cars on the track.
 
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