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How to do the narrow XR10 mod to Axial axles
- Thread starter War Pig
- Start date
Well I'm not entirely sure. My hilux has a 11.4" wheelbase and the hi steer knuckles and cvds. It has the same turning radius as my JK with 13.1" wheelbase. You figure the shorter wheelbase would help but the highsteer knuckles didn't seem to improve my steering too much more compared to the stock knuckles. Both have a 5ft steering circle.
Only way to make it more narrow would be with offset wheels or shave down the axle width. Or add fenders.
Only way to make it more narrow would be with offset wheels or shave down the axle width. Or add fenders.
So, I've been asked many times how to do this. I've been meaning to do this thread for awhile and finally got some pictures taken last night. Here it goes.....
You start with plastic axle housings, a set of XR10 universals, some aluminum "C"'s, aluminum knuckles, a good locker, and some short beef tubes. The beef tubes should be .43"OD by 1.9" long with a .2" hole bored through it. This will reinforce the axle housing and give you something to drill and tap into to hold the "C" on. I prefer the tubes to be made of Delrin or aluminum.
Other tools you'll need are:
Dremel
Drill
3mm tap
Xacto knife
File
So let's get started.
First thing to do is remove the round boss from the outside of the housings where the stock "C"'s attach.
These should all be cut down flush with the outside of the housing.
Then you remove part of the housing where the halves come together. The object is to make the squared off ridges into small triangles so that the "C"'s will slide over them and you can clock them.
The top drawling is how the housings are stock, the bottom is how you want them to look.
The next step is to take your Dremel and smooth out the inside of the housing at the ends so the beef tube fits in nice and tight but the housing completely comes together.
You should be able to put an 5x11 bearing in the end of the housing, place the beef tube in and close the housing without seeing any gaps where the housing comes together. Just for fun, slide the "C" on now to see how the fit is, it should be tight.
So now that you have both sides done and the "C"s fit nice it's time for the lockers and axle mods. I prefer the Hot Racing spool lockers.
I've never had one fail, they are very hard metal, and the slot where the axle engages is a nice tight fit.
So this is the tricky part. You are going to be cutting the axle shafts down at the locker end right past where the axle necks up and the flat spots are. I leave 1/8" of the larger diameter when I cut mine down.
When cutting, go nice and slow, don't get them really hot, you don't want to remove the heat treating right where they engage the lockers. After cutting, you use a file and make new flats until they just slide into the lockers.
After you file the flats, you must make sure they seat all the way into the locker. Assemble the "C"s, knuckles, bearings, and universals and make sure everything fits together nice.
Once you get the "C"s clocked properly, remove the universals and drill a #39 hole and tap it out to 3mm to secure the "C" to the axle and beef tube on top and bottom.
Reassemble the axle and you're done. They should look something like this.
This mod will allow more steering, it will be stronger than most CVD's (other than Super 300's) and will widen the track width approximately 1/2" overall.
Great write up, thanks!
Well I'm not entirely sure. My hilux has a 11.4" wheelbase and the hi steer knuckles and cvds. It has the same turning radius as my JK with 13.1" wheelbase. You figure the shorter wheelbase would help but the highsteer knuckles didn't seem to improve my steering too much more compared to the stock knuckles. Both have a 5ft steering circle.
Only way to make it more narrow would be with offset wheels or shave down the axle width. Or add fenders.
Good info too, looking for your SCX-10 build now...
and checking your sig link build.
Last edited:
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Oh boy oh boy.. I have stock chubs an knuckles laying around! An a couple sets of uni's! Next mod coming up..
Thanks for the great write up!
Thanks for the great write up!
im gunna crawl
Rock Crawler
Good info I may have to do some testing . I use the 8 degree vanquish stuff and my tires rub on the shocks at full lock. Thanks guys.
So if you don't have a locker do you need to cut down the axles?
And in the first pic posted, you taking off the round boss? But in the second pic aren't you needing that piece for the c hubs to attach to? I'm a bit confused. Im running a stock scx10 axle, i dont have beef tubes, how wide will my axle be with this mod? im confused on where the 1/2" bigger is coming from. This is what I have on order.
- xr10 c hubs
- xr10 knuckles
- xr10 uni's( haven't ordered these yet)
And in the first pic posted, you taking off the round boss? But in the second pic aren't you needing that piece for the c hubs to attach to? I'm a bit confused. Im running a stock scx10 axle, i dont have beef tubes, how wide will my axle be with this mod? im confused on where the 1/2" bigger is coming from. This is what I have on order.
- xr10 c hubs
- xr10 knuckles
- xr10 uni's( haven't ordered these yet)
Ok, let me try to answer this
You need to remove the bolt retaining section on the 'front' and 'rear' to like in this picture. This is the side profile. You cut the bolt section completely off and file the top and bottom tabs to be sharp and not square. This is how the CHUBs will attach to the axle
You do not need to shave anything. The 1/2" is on each end and its based on the CHUBs and Knuckles, they are slightly wider than the scx10 chubs/knuckles. Beef tubes are not needed but definitely help stiffen things.
If you dont have a no-slop lock you will just need to be better at making the flat spots in the axles to fit properly in the stock locker. The benefit of the no-slop is it is forgiving in how precise you file them down.
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I just got done doing my 1st XR modded axle. Most of the info was from this thread.
Here are a few things that might help:
You WILL have to cut the universals and file flat spots on them. The XR universals are longer than the stock dog bones w/ axle cups from the spot where they run on the axle housing/bearing to the end of the hub. Approx. 7.53 mm per side or 15.06mm total ( which is .590 inches). This is the half inch in increased axle width.
Here is a pic of the modified axle housing. The "boss" needs to be removed so the XR/Wraith hub will slide over it. The areas that you will cut/file into pointed ridges are the two flat spots (top and bottom) that are created when the two halves of the housing are put together. The inside of the XR/Wraith hubs are splined and this will allow you to clock the hubs.
Another thing that might help is to file the end of the universal flat before cutting it to length. This way you can use the factory flat as a guide to keep the flats parallel and consistant.
Just for FYI...this is a shot of the stock Axial locker next to a HR locker. They are within a few mm's of being the same width.
Shinjari and MrJoshua, thanks for the updates with detailed pics and instructions!
That helps a ton. Thanks.
I just got done doing my 1st XR modded axle. Most of the info was from this thread.
Here are a few things that might help:
You WILL have to cut the universals and file flat spots on them. The XR universals are longer than the stock dog bones w/ axle cups from the spot where they run on the axle housing/bearing to the end of the hub. Approx. 7.53 mm per side or 15.06mm total ( which is .590 inches). This is the half inch in increased axle width.
Here is a pic of the modified axle housing. The "boss" needs to be removed so the XR/Wraith hub will slide over it. The areas that you will cut/file into pointed ridges are the two flat spots (top and bottom) that are created when the two halves of the housing are put together. The inside of the XR/Wraith hubs are splined and this will allow you to clock the hubs.
Another thing that might help is to file the end of the universal flat before cutting it to length. This way you can use the factory flat as a guide to keep the flats parallel and consistant.
Just for FYI...this is a shot of the stock Axial locker next to a HR locker. They are within a few mm's of being the same width.
amec
Newbie
How did i go wrong??
I got the axial parts ax30760 and ax30762 plus xr10 axles. Installed and the front left wheel will be leaning in at about 15 degrees. What is wrong with the way i have done this????
For some reason i am unable to post attachments.. I have a photo at the ready.
I got the axial parts ax30760 and ax30762 plus xr10 axles. Installed and the front left wheel will be leaning in at about 15 degrees. What is wrong with the way i have done this????
For some reason i am unable to post attachments.. I have a photo at the ready.
Last edited:
rustykaos
Quarry Creeper
Sounds like you have put the c hub on upside down.
x2............................................... "thumbsup"
amec
Newbie
Nope, not upside down. Checked that first. The longer arm goes on the bottom, both sides.
I think i received 2 right knuckles.
I think i received 2 right knuckles.
If so you should be able to assemble it with the tie-rod fingers in back on one side and in front on the other, and get the right angles. Tie rod will be a challenge though.
For pictures are you using an image hoster? Just copy and paste the link that starts with
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