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How to build a Clodbuster Rock Crawler

kevinlongisland said:
How to build - Part 3:
Construction and assorted notes
:


This is a work in progress.

Make sure to use locktight on any metal to metal hardware like a metal screw going into a metal part or into a metal nut.

Nitro or gas powered r/c trucks do not make good crawlers at all for many reasons. Electric motors have allot more "control". You can control the torque and power you apply much more precisely. Electrics have instant reverse. Not all nitros even have reverse systems stock. Nitros free wheel (no brake or engine power) when the throttle on the radio is returned to neutral. This allows the truck to roll which you don't want to do when crawling on inclines.

You can lock your differentials (diffs) using jb weld or hot glue.

Four Wheel Steering:
To make the most capable rock crawler you should setup four wheel steering (4ws - steer the front and rear wheels). You can use a Y servo cable to do this. The y cable is inexpensive ($4-$10) and you can get them at any local hobby shop or online hobby store. But this will give you full time 4ws which is not really that good. The best setup is an independent 4ws system. Setup like this, the front and rear servo are wired seperately into the receiver on different channels. For this you need to have at least a 3 channel radio system. The cheapest method to do this is to modify a tq3 system. You can buy the parts or a complete system from www.thecrawlerstore.com or you can modify your system with the info found here:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9765

You can also use a 3 or more channel radio system. Different radio systems are listed above in part 1 of this article.

Mounting servos:
Here is some info on how to mount your servos to the clod axles.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showpost.php?p=289913&postcount=20
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30889

You should also cut off the 4 little knubs (steering stops) on each knuckle to increase turning radius. I use a pair of wire cutters or knips, but you can use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel (use safety glasses) or any other means.

About the super clodbuster kits:
The super clod kit does not come with any type of controller and receiver, servos, batteries, or any wiring that you would use on a clod based crawler. the stock clod can't do much of anything. It's only worth buying for the axles.

Making you own links:
http://www.rccrawler.com/customlink.htm
http://www.rccrawler.com/links2.htm

Wiring your motors:
http://www.utrcrc.com/tech.html

Links to other usefull threads:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4521
An explanation of the different types of crawlers, 2.2, super, unlimited, shafty, tubers, price considerations, performance, etc.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27643

I need some help here... Your link for Wiring your motors wont work for me. Can you tell me what to click on to get to that section on www.utrcrc.com so I can find out how to wire my motors? Because I just spent over $900 to get everything at once to build a crawler and all i have left to do is wire it. Please help!
 
clod diff

im not sure how to work this site as im a new member so if i did this wrong sry! but i have a ??? i was wondering if hotglue would work to lock my clods diff??? I used it on my tlt crawler but thats a enclosed diff. so im not sure if that will work on the clods nylon diff gears??also mabie jb weld? if anyone has the rite anser let me kno im new to the clods!! thanx:twisted: !!!
 
i have succesfully hot glued 2 of my clods, and run lockers on my other 2 clods, first remove all grease or oil on the gears then apply the hot glue, it should work fine, best thing is that it is reversible"thumbsup"
And no you won't damage the gears.
 
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thanx cartronicshn for the advise on the hotglue"thumbsup" i kno abought the aluminum lockers but as im on a buget hot glue seems to be the hott ticket for me!so it wont damage the nylon either?:shock: kool thanx again!!
 
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would 2 hitec 5645 servos running in a NN using 8 cells have enough power with one in front and one in the rear, or will the 645 work decent as well? Can the NN take a 8 cell flat side by side pack? also, why does everyone recommend using mambo wheels? is there anything wrong with using 40 series moab tires on beadlock rims? for a radio i will probably run a nomadio react. it has 4 channels, and a 3 position wheel that the march 07' issue of rc driver said can be used to shift gears or be used for rear steering on a crawler.
 
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mounting savage wheels/tires

newbe here just got clod project off ebay and have a question, i would like to mount stock savage wheels 17mm. can i just use 12mm to 17mm adapters and be ok? will i have to worry about savage backspacing? i think they are 2in and my clod wheels are 1.5? also if adapters work where is a good place to buy..
 
theTman said:
would 2 hitec 5645 servos running in a NN using 8 cells have enough power with one in front and one in the rear, or will the 645 work decent as well? Can the NN take a 8 cell flat side by side pack? also, why does everyone recommend using mambo wheels? is there anything wrong with using 40 series moab tires on beadlock rims? for a radio i will probably run a nomadio react. it has 4 channels, and a 3 position wheel that the march 07' issue of rc driver said can be used to shift gears or be used for rear steering on a crawler.

There should be no power requirement problems running the two 5645mg servos. Steering might be lacking some but it's allot of money to upgrade to robot servos. The NN skid plate is rather long and will fit a shotgun style 8 cell pack or a hump style pack. You can use any tire and rim combo you like. Hope this helps.
 
hdking46 said:
newbe here just got clod project off ebay and have a question, i would like to mount stock savage wheels 17mm. can i just use 12mm to 17mm adapters and be ok? will i have to worry about savage backspacing? i think they are 2in and my clod wheels are 1.5? also if adapters work where is a good place to buy..

The stock clod hex is a 12mm hex. So a 12mm to 17mm adapter would work. The only thing that you have to be careful of is the offset. Most rims like that have allot of offset and you need a widener to push them out.
 
How about we change all the links on the "how to" items. There's no reason we should be linking any products to Tower with all the vendors we have selling all the parts needed. Tower does nothing to support our hobby or RCC so we should be supporting our vendors first and foremost.
 
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