Just caught this part of the conversation... what is it about this esc that it doesn't need to be calibrated? How does it know your end points?
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Hobbywing Quicrun Waterproof 1080 Brushed Crawling ESC
- Thread starter LSXGMC
- Start date
Just caught this part of the conversation... what is it about this esc that it doesn't need to be calibrated? How does it know your end points?
I don't think it does know your end points. I think you could be missing full throttle and brake without calibration. It'll work without calibration though.
Ambis
Pebble Pounder
Yesterday I replaced the red power button with a similar piece styrene that keeps the power button pressed firmly down at all times. Works perfectly!
I even cut the old power button down and added the top part to it's original place so it doesn't look any different from normal
I even cut the old power button down and added the top part to it's original place so it doesn't look any different from normal
Hardcoretam
Quarry Creeper
So i discovered i am unable to return my 1080 for a warranty replacement for a couple of reasons, that are my own fault.
The warranty sticker is removed (i had it glued down originally an removed the sticker, for better bonding)
There is a few marks around the clips on the esc where the heatsink joins the body. This is when i had made a very gentle attempt to open it to try and get some de-case pictures.
Both my fault but obviously didn't contribute to the failure.
Since the capacitor popped and i ordered a replacement i figured that before soldering in the new one, the one old has to be removed to try and prevent further problems.
First attempt, to pull it out like a tooth.
Not possible to wiggle it side to side, due to how it sits in the ESC, so tried pulling it straight out and it fell apart easily, because it was already ruptured.
So with nothing to grab hold of and half a capacitor still on, it needed to be de-cased. Even with all the clips cut off from the case, the bonding from the conformal coating sticking the board to the case and heatsink etc, meant that it appears i have damaged the board in attempting to de=case it.
I'm not going to be put off as i think it was just purely bad luck so a replacement has been ordered and will stick my Hobbywing 1060 in with a Turnigy 5A BEC in the meantime.
The warranty sticker is removed (i had it glued down originally an removed the sticker, for better bonding)
There is a few marks around the clips on the esc where the heatsink joins the body. This is when i had made a very gentle attempt to open it to try and get some de-case pictures.
Both my fault but obviously didn't contribute to the failure.
Since the capacitor popped and i ordered a replacement i figured that before soldering in the new one, the one old has to be removed to try and prevent further problems.
First attempt, to pull it out like a tooth.
Not possible to wiggle it side to side, due to how it sits in the ESC, so tried pulling it straight out and it fell apart easily, because it was already ruptured.
So with nothing to grab hold of and half a capacitor still on, it needed to be de-cased. Even with all the clips cut off from the case, the bonding from the conformal coating sticking the board to the case and heatsink etc, meant that it appears i have damaged the board in attempting to de=case it.
I'm not going to be put off as i think it was just purely bad luck so a replacement has been ordered and will stick my Hobbywing 1060 in with a Turnigy 5A BEC in the meantime.
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I think you are correct - you just got a dud. It happens with every company. The overwhelming majority of us love our 1080s.
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Continuing on the topic of issues.
I installed a new 1080 last night and it refused to calibrate.
Set/power release I was able to set the neutral position. Full forward/set no beeps. Fu#%. Full reverse/set two beeps. No dam it that's forward. Lets try again. Yep same thing.
Went to the transmitted and reversed the motor. Calibration worked perfectly the first time.
On top of that the motor, now switched to reverse on the transmitted ran in the correct direction, so the calibration took.
No idea why this one was different but it is. The only thing different in this set up, is I have a forward mount motor that runs the opposite of normally operations. I can't see how the ESC would know the difference.(motor is reversed via wiring)
On a side note the port for the programming card, also runs at 7.4v when the BEC is switched. It is currently working as an extra power slot for LED lighting. So far it has not effected the ESC's programming. I only have a few LED so there is not much more then 150mA draw.
If you do this and cook something it's on you, I'm not saying you should do this but it can be done.
I installed a new 1080 last night and it refused to calibrate.
Set/power release I was able to set the neutral position. Full forward/set no beeps. Fu#%. Full reverse/set two beeps. No dam it that's forward. Lets try again. Yep same thing.
Went to the transmitted and reversed the motor. Calibration worked perfectly the first time.
On top of that the motor, now switched to reverse on the transmitted ran in the correct direction, so the calibration took.
No idea why this one was different but it is. The only thing different in this set up, is I have a forward mount motor that runs the opposite of normally operations. I can't see how the ESC would know the difference.(motor is reversed via wiring)
On a side note the port for the programming card, also runs at 7.4v when the BEC is switched. It is currently working as an extra power slot for LED lighting. So far it has not effected the ESC's programming. I only have a few LED so there is not much more then 150mA draw.
If you do this and cook something it's on you, I'm not saying you should do this but it can be done.
HobbyWing requires that you set the throttle (Channel 2) to reverse before calibrating. Why? I have no idea. But it's been that way for as long as I've been using HobbyWing. I had problems calibrating mine until I remembered that step.
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Funny I never read instructions, but this time I actually did. I wont be doing that again anytime soon.
Ambis
Pebble Pounder
Today was the first time out with my comp Jeep. The ESC works increadibly well. Previously it had a BRXL. Ok, the motor had also changed to TorqueMaster Pro 27T, so that played probably some part in it also...
But couldn't be happier! Also I didn't notice any problems with the 32 kg HV servo (with only an added capacitor).
But couldn't be happier! Also I didn't notice any problems with the 32 kg HV servo (with only an added capacitor).
Hi guys
just a quick post following my first day running the esc
In short, the 1080 is an excellent esc!!
It ran perfectly all day and it ran fast. all of the adjustable settings i changed during the day had an effect. I'll go quickly through what i changed
Lipo cutoff: ok i didn't change this but i tested it on setting 4 (high) i ran the car til it hit the cutoff, the esc dropped back to 50% throttle, so it had enough to get around the last few corners of the lap. i tested the pack and it was at 7.2v. I will test lower settings later on but 7.2 is a very healthy level and the drop to 50% was very obvious. i didnt run the car down to full cutoff as for me it was more important to establish the 50% throttle drop is used in this esc and at what voltage that cuts in at
Initial start force, i left at setting 9, it was a low enough percentage that with my low power motor it doesnt feel like you're going from 0 to crazy fast
initial brake force, i started increasing it during the day so as soon as i went to brake i was getting higher percentages of brake, i found this was good for me as im pretty slow on the brake trigger so i was able to get braking happening quickly using 50% initial brake
i ran 100 brake force on the esc, the brakes are very good on this esc
neutral range at setting 2 worked well for my gt3c so i didnt change it
Punch, i ran it set at 9 most of the day but in the car park i tested setting 5 and it seemed to take a bit of punch out of it from a dead start, setting 1 took a lot of punch out and the delay in moving from rest was very obvious and the car didnt feel like it reached top speed
PWM i tried a setting 1,2 & 3. i wasnt able to tell a whole lot of difference as i spend a lot of time at full throttle, but it works
i tested freewheeling in the car park, but wasnt really able to feel what any effect on acceleration etc, i will try this out next time
Hopefully that is of some use to you. any questions or if anything is unclear, please let me know
Cheers
just a quick post following my first day running the esc
In short, the 1080 is an excellent esc!!
It ran perfectly all day and it ran fast. all of the adjustable settings i changed during the day had an effect. I'll go quickly through what i changed
Lipo cutoff: ok i didn't change this but i tested it on setting 4 (high) i ran the car til it hit the cutoff, the esc dropped back to 50% throttle, so it had enough to get around the last few corners of the lap. i tested the pack and it was at 7.2v. I will test lower settings later on but 7.2 is a very healthy level and the drop to 50% was very obvious. i didnt run the car down to full cutoff as for me it was more important to establish the 50% throttle drop is used in this esc and at what voltage that cuts in at
Initial start force, i left at setting 9, it was a low enough percentage that with my low power motor it doesnt feel like you're going from 0 to crazy fast
initial brake force, i started increasing it during the day so as soon as i went to brake i was getting higher percentages of brake, i found this was good for me as im pretty slow on the brake trigger so i was able to get braking happening quickly using 50% initial brake
i ran 100 brake force on the esc, the brakes are very good on this esc
neutral range at setting 2 worked well for my gt3c so i didnt change it
Punch, i ran it set at 9 most of the day but in the car park i tested setting 5 and it seemed to take a bit of punch out of it from a dead start, setting 1 took a lot of punch out and the delay in moving from rest was very obvious and the car didnt feel like it reached top speed
PWM i tried a setting 1,2 & 3. i wasnt able to tell a whole lot of difference as i spend a lot of time at full throttle, but it works
i tested freewheeling in the car park, but wasnt really able to feel what any effect on acceleration etc, i will try this out next time
Hopefully that is of some use to you. any questions or if anything is unclear, please let me know
Cheers
CoolRunning
Rock Crawler
Freewheeling should just result in a cooler ESC when run at low throttle percentages. This is where an ESC's FETs usually gets the hottest as they are switching like mad and generating heat rather than just staying open like at WOT.
NOFX
I like them too
Cheers from Portugal!!
Awesome mate!!. I'm going to the Me first and the gimme gimmes concert in October if you know of them
Yeah thats what i've read, then the instructions recommend not using it for normal usage, i guess i want to find if it affects anything else, ive also read that its more efficient than the normal fet system so it'll be interesting
Just to follow up on my previous results, i tested the low voltage cut off at medium (option 3) and the pack came off reading 6.4v when the esc dropped to 50% throttle which is probably as low as you'd want to go, and in general i would recommend using the high setting unless you absolutely need to squeeze every last mah out of your pack
Ambis
Pebble Pounder
I got 3,4v per cell on medium and 3,6 per cell on high setting. Would also recommend high-setting.
nice one mate, thats pretty close to what i got, especially the high setting, matches spot on
Hardcoretam
Quarry Creeper
Check the capacitor on it. That's what blew on mines
