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hillbilly's LOW RANGE inspired cab swapped bronco

I'm really thinking about selling this.

I've lost interest and could use money for another hobby I've picked up. If your interested send me a pm and we can talk.
 
Glad to hear that. As a relatively new guy, I just want to thank you for all the great info you've provided on these forums, and in particular - about the Barrage. I hope to see you finish this build.
 
After looking this over and trying to find ways to hide electronics. I'm swapping the flatbed out for something else I can hide everything underneath and still look good I hope.

More to come when I get it in.
 
Ill still have one with new set up.

The main thing is a place for a battery. The gom interior I'm using is deep and no place up front anymore so under the bed is the best place.

Kinda hard to put it there with the flatbed on the frame rails. I thought about a tool box mounted in to the flatbed
To try to keep weight low.
 
Finally ordered the rest of the electronics.

Needing to replace the radio system since the rgt came with a 2n1 esc/rx and no drag brake.

I picked up a Flysky radio and hw 1080.

As well as picking up a 55-60mm driveshaft to connect power from the trans to t-case. Also ordered some mini t rear springs to get something a little stiffer up front cause of the weight and shocks are sitting close to full bump under it own weight.
 
I got my springs in yesterday but haven't put them on. I ordered some aluminum hex beef patties for the front not for the weight, but to get the 2mm wider on each side. Trying to clear the steering rod ends on high steer knuckles as they rub my tires right now. If they don't work either wider hexes or hubs might be in order.
 
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I did some math the other day to figure out my gear ratio here is what I came up with:

Trans= 12.8:1

T-case - Rear= 1:1
Rear axle UD= 43/13 = 3.30:1

T-case front= 1.47:1
Front Standard= 38/13 = 2.92:1

Final ratio = front = 54.9:1
Rear = 42.2:1

Also I had a little bit of time to play around today and I believe once I revise my sliders I can mount the cab and also mount my esc along with a battery.
 
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Forgive me of this is a dumb question, but...

If I'm reading this correctly, the front final ratio is slower than the rear final ratio.

Won't that have the opposite effect of under driving the rear or over driving the front?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
My math could be off sense I was using 1:1 calculators.

I do know with underdrive in the rear and t-case set for overdrive. for every 3 turns of the front the rear turns twice.

Edit: just thinking about it the rear math is wrong since the t-case ratio from trans through t-case to rear is 1:1. So it should be the same as the trans going to the rear.
 
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Mail day hiccup. My hw1080 showed up Friday but in someone else mailbox. I filed a missing mail claim, but hope it whoever mailbox its in drops it off at my work. (Been using my work address for shipping). So I'm not happy about this right now. Damn postman!
 
i got really mad when i went to the post office looking for mail i hadn't received once.
"after 10 days we throw it in the trash"

WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT!??!?!?!?
ever since i have been convinced postal workers really DONT GAF.
(i got really lucky the person who moved into my previous residence held it for me)

hope you get your 1080 they really are awesome.
 
Thanks man. Friday I asked the postman about it and he said he already delivered there. I thought no shit that's why I'm asking about it. Definitely didn't GAF.

Edit : checked mail again for the fifth time it feeling like today AND....
 
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Working on the old girl today.

First I got my aluminum beef patties in today. And they are to big in diameter for my wheel I got but only by a .5 mm or so. I will shave them down a tad till they fit past the inner beadlock ring.

Swapped out the front springs from mini t medium front springs to mini t soft rear springs. I still have mini t firm front springs in the rear. Now that I got a set of fronts and rears I can fine tune once it's up and crawling.

I also checked where I would fit my 1080. And lots of options. I thought I had less room but I was wrong. It fits under my planned interior or between the steering servo and trans next to the motor. Would need to make a mounting plate but stooked I have options.
 
My longer driveshaft came in today.

The other day working on it, I realized I need to change up my lay out of my sevro and where the motor is also tucking the front bumper more so its not sticking out so much and improve approach angle. To do that the I need to relocate the servo back some. My motor is occupied that location at the moment.

To fix this problem I plan on flipping the trans so the motor will be facing in to the interior. This should allow me to relocate the servo to a better spot and tuck the bumper. also decrease the forward angle of the drag link. Which is the next item to get hit by a rock after the bumper.
 
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Took a little time after work to one make sure I got the right driveshaft and to check/map out fixing my issues I laid out in my last post.

Here is a little better pic of the drag link angle and bumper


Now where I should have put the servo in the first place and now you can also see how much I can tuck the bumper back on the chassis.


With the servo in its future new home the drag link is tucked behind the tires.


Now to the new home for the motor next to the servo. This way I can still keep my plan of the GOM interior I've already been fit


Driveshaft that I just got still works, plus can still keep my overdrive in the t-case by flipping it and flipping the shaft/gear.


This was my original idea, here a new interior would need to be found like a bomber interior or something like that.


Driveshaft still works but the angle quite severe and would need to be smoothed out. This is not my plan of choice now that I have taken the idea out of my mind and actually laid them out.
 
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