lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
So the pinion gear shaft should be level with the floor?
So my back uppers need to be shorter and my front uppers can go a little longer??
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Help building my Krazed Un-stuck crawler
- Thread starter lonewolf8o
- Start date
So my back uppers need to be shorter and my front uppers can go a little longer??
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
Laying the front shocks back a bit on the chassis end will probably drop it down enough to line the shaft up good enough to stop the binding.
A level pinion is nice but not having it certainly is not the end of the world. I purposely tipped my front pinion up to get a better angle for ground clearance under the driveline and to pull the servo up and out of the way on its dlux sporty truss.
A level pinion is nice but not having it certainly is not the end of the world. I purposely tipped my front pinion up to get a better angle for ground clearance under the driveline and to pull the servo up and out of the way on its dlux sporty truss.
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Just your front pinion, should be level with the ground..
Your rear pinion should be setup, so your yoke is above your lower links or running the same angle(better yet)..
I'll post some pics of my rig.
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Ok.. different rig, but my setup is the same on All my shaft driven trucks..
I can't quote any of it, but... The idea I learned, years ago, from my start, in the creeper section.. from someone Way more knowledgeable then me..
The pinion angles work with and against the drive train..
The angle of the pinions, also work with and against the gears.
The force from the drive shaft at such and such a angle, put force thru the gears in such a way, blah blah blah.. (just a general drift, from 2012) lol..
Like learning and remembering, squat and anti squat...
But instead of links and shocks, it's geared towards, drive shafts and gears..
My front pinion angle, never really moves. It keeps my caster, the same, thru the whole suspension cycle.
Another thing to remember, depending on your your link mount.. I always try to keep my rear uppers, centered over the axle.
Which never changes, thru the suspension cycle.
Personally.. a MIP will Never come off the front of my rigs..
It's heavy, it's forward, it's low, and it's undesTroyable! Lol...
Next thing to check.. see the little shiny marks, on the ears of the uni's..(you can actually only see one).. look for those marks on your front shaft.
It's normal for uni's.. they will clearance themselves, enough, and smooth out.. (as you can tell from the angle of my rear shaft)
This is how you take care of that..
A little grinding is good for the crawlering soul..
just a little tho!
Which aids in all kinds of angle!
I can't quote any of it, but... The idea I learned, years ago, from my start, in the creeper section.. from someone Way more knowledgeable then me..
The pinion angles work with and against the drive train..
The angle of the pinions, also work with and against the gears.
The force from the drive shaft at such and such a angle, put force thru the gears in such a way, blah blah blah.. (just a general drift, from 2012) lol..
Like learning and remembering, squat and anti squat...
But instead of links and shocks, it's geared towards, drive shafts and gears..
My front pinion angle, never really moves. It keeps my caster, the same, thru the whole suspension cycle.
Another thing to remember, depending on your your link mount.. I always try to keep my rear uppers, centered over the axle.
Which never changes, thru the suspension cycle.
Personally.. a MIP will Never come off the front of my rigs..
It's heavy, it's forward, it's low, and it's undesTroyable! Lol...
Next thing to check.. see the little shiny marks, on the ears of the uni's..(you can actually only see one).. look for those marks on your front shaft.
It's normal for uni's.. they will clearance themselves, enough, and smooth out.. (as you can tell from the angle of my rear shaft)
This is how you take care of that..
A little grinding is good for the crawlering soul..
just a little tho! Which aids in all kinds of angle!
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Didn't have chance to write it but thank you so much you two for sharing all that experience knowledge with me.
What's the deal with the springs? Came with clear ones that to me felt right (I don't know what to look for though) Fish gave me green and blue ones that I installed and to me feel very stiff (blue are on back).
Also ride hight or sag?? With these springs there's no drop from placing it on the ground and letting go. I did install those shock tube spacers.
Edit to add
Those springs I took off or RcBros springs. Personally feel I should put those back? What do you guys think?
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
What's the deal with the springs? Came with clear ones that to me felt right (I don't know what to look for though) Fish gave me green and blue ones that I installed and to me feel very stiff (blue are on back).
Also ride hight or sag?? With these springs there's no drop from placing it on the ground and letting go. I did install those shock tube spacers.
Edit to add
Those springs I took off or RcBros springs. Personally feel I should put those back? What do you guys think?
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
I like my suspension pretty soft in the front and a bit stiffer in the rear. If your springs are not allowing the chassis to compress at rest them they're too stiff.
I run pinks in the front and scx gray in the rear.
I run pinks in the front and scx gray in the rear.
snapon boy
I wanna be Dave
I use pink in the front and red or green in the rear. But with the pit bull tires he might need the green or blue. Drive and tune till your happy.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Was meaning to ask this when I was figuring out where to mount the servo. Wanted to do it like this but I couldn't get the servo to fit and figured maybe he is running a smaller servo? Is he?
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
That is probably a hitec 7950, it's a normal sized servo.
If i was running scx axles I'd pick up a destroy plate as it solves a bunch of mounting issues in a single piece.
If i was running scx axles I'd pick up a destroy plate as it solves a bunch of mounting issues in a single piece.
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Thanks, I ask because I'm figuring where to mount the body and notice with the battery and servo where I have them they will hit the underside of the body with a little suspension movement. I see I can put spacers on the body but figured the lower the body the better?
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
I'd back the front shock adjusters off all the way to get the front down and then trim the body to fit around whatever is in the way. You can space the front plate up to move the servo and battery down under them easily enough.
It looks like winnerone23 has the shocks mounted outside the mounts on the front as well. That adds stability. The front of his rigs are also lower than the rear so the links and skid transition is smooth up to what I call a buffalo belly between the rear of the chassis and the rear tires.
It looks like winnerone23 has the shocks mounted outside the mounts on the front as well. That adds stability. The front of his rigs are also lower than the rear so the links and skid transition is smooth up to what I call a buffalo belly between the rear of the chassis and the rear tires.
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Thanks. I didn't think about raising the front plate (face palm) to fit everything under. Think I'll start working on that.
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Now I remember why I gave up so fast on trying to make it work. There wasn't enough carbon fiber to mount one side and the other way would have it enter the diff housing.
Is the owner of that one on here? How did he mount it?
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
Is the owner of that one on here? How did he mount it?
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
snapon boy
I wanna be Dave
That looks like rcbros shafts will is a vendor. I prefer the destroy plate.
149 r/c worx
149 r/c worx
WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
Yea go with a destroy plate if you want to mount it under like that. I want to say winnerone23 is the Troy part of the desTROY plate.
snapon boy
I wanna be Dave
Trash is correct winnorone23 is the destroy plate. Robbob for krazed builds makes them.
149 r/c worx
149 r/c worx
Last edited:
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Krazed builds website says all out. Anyone else sell them?
Edit to add:
Is winnerone23 the maker of the plate? I saw a thread he started about it. I pm'ed him.
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
Edit to add:
Is winnerone23 the maker of the plate? I saw a thread he started about it. I pm'ed him.
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
WHITE-TRASH
I wanna be Dave
Who is Chris? I'm trashy. 
Nordic Crawlers front plate.... No clue where you'd get one.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/414917-rcbros-sporty-begins-5.html#post4311311
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/414917-rcbros-sporty-begins-5.html#post4311311
lonewolf8o
Pebble Pounder
Thanks. Shows a lot of good info and I found out why the plate I had didn't work. I ordered the wrong one (face palm). It's this one from RcBros he uses. If I read the description better I would have noticed mine only does top left middle or center.
Sent from my S7 using Tapatalk
