HBX Devastator = Sumo XL

[Stiggolas]

Yeah, took a big magnifyer and a small drill I hear what you say about the driveshaft engagement, not much at all. I will shorten the links at some point.
There's not much thread on the link ends so was thinking about bending the links to give a higher ground clearance too. May have to superglue one of the ends on to stop things flopping around too much, what do you think?

 

[Sparks1337]

Not sure - I don't have any experience bending links. I shouldn't think you'd need glue though - once the ends are screwed home they're pretty secure.

I'd try moving the top shock mounting down a notch first if you want ground clearance, see if that helps - worth a go before committing to bent metal.

Mine had some sort of threadlock on a lot of the ball studs, and some of the balls work like a nut on the end of a normal hex screw - I couldn't find a way to remove them without resorting to using pliers on the balls - the parts seem to have survived okay but my balls are killing me

 

[CrawlinMike]

Mine has turned stupid glitchy. Goes full reverse or forward and steering goes nuts. Before that it was great.

 

[Sparks1337]

Hmm front or rear steer or both?

I like those wheels btw 8)

 

[Stiggolas]

Thinking about lengthening the driveshafts rather than shortening the wheelbase. Going to cut and sleeve one tonight see if it works, I have a couple on order if it doesn't. And yes those wheels look cool, what are they from? Can't help with the electronics fault though, sorry.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

[CrawlinMike]

I'm pretty sure BWD produced them a five years ago or so for losis micro crawler. (Billet works designs )

 

[Brake Weight]

Will those for the 1/35 Orlando f1fiddy fit?

 

[MattTheGenus]

Will those for the 1/35 Orlando f1fiddy fit?

No, they use a 7mm hex, plus they are way too big.

 

[spoo76]

No, they use a 7mm hex, plus they are way too big.

To clarify for others the HBX/HSP/losi/Sumo is what uses the 7mm hex not the 1/35

 

[Brake Weight]

We talking wheels/hexes or driveshafts?

 

[spoo76]

Wheel hex for all the 1/24 micros I'm aware of is 7mm like SOME 1/18 vehicles

 

[Brake Weight]

Will those for the 1/35 Orlando f1fiddy fit?

I was asking for the driveshafts, not the wheels/tires.

 

[Sparks1337]

Lol confusion reigns

BW I don't think the driveshafts fit either. I don't have an orlandoo but pretty sure I read somewhere that they use 2mm outputs and the 1/24 stuff uses 3mm. Maybe someone else can confirm if this is the case.

Lengthening the shafts should work stig. They will be seeing a higher torque load than the losi but I'm pretty sure others have done sumo shafts without reported issues "thumbsup"

 

[Brake Weight]

http://m.banggood.com/Orlandoo-F150...-Metal-Drive-Shaft-Set-MD5-350-p-1005347.html

There's 2-2, 2-3, 3-3 versions. 35mm scoped in and 50mm out.

 

[R.Billy Rob]

My mud truck has sumo axles, lengthened sumo driveshafts, and a losi trans with a Dannally big block stroker. 8) So much torque! :shock: I have to be very smooth on the throttle or else I break driveshafts instantly. The sumo, and losi shafts can be lengthened no problem, but are not good under a lot of torque. Banggood has brass u joints that would work if you want to build a custom shaft. The metal orlandoo 3-3 shafts should work, but are most definitely going to be too short. I'm going to try out the brass u joints first. "thumbsup" Not sure if this helps anyone or not...

 

[f150monster]

Have you tried 3-3 sdp shafts?

 

[Sparks1337]

That's very interesting to hear RBR, I have something similar in the pipeline and was wondering how the shafts would hold up. I have a 180 heli motor I was gonna use (same can as a stroker) - either that or 3s brushless...

 

[R.Billy Rob]

Yeah, I've gone through as many as 4 driveshafts in one battery pack! Needless to say, I don't run that truck too much.

 

[Sparks1337]

Oh dear. I'd better start praying for some metal shafts to come along then

 

[JohnEdwa]

To anyone still interested in the axles, the pins should be a press fit (a very, very tight one at that), but they should be able to be hammered down and the bushings be threaded over and swapped to bearings.
As the plastic axle casings have moldings for the outer bearings as well, adding them shouldn't be impossible either ?
Haven't tried it myself though as I'm happy with how the stock axles perform as a crawler.

I'm guessing they heat the axle ends to expand the hole, then thread the pin and letting it cool to produce a 'shrink fit'. Very secure, but really hard to undo as trying to heat it again just expands the pin as well.



The source for this is a german forum post on the Reely Rocker, which is a rebrand of the HBX devastator.