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Have tech questions? Will answer.

The 180 & 270 options only matter if your radio can send that large of a pulse width. Normal radios max out before 90 deg total, better will do about 120. Usually it's robotic controllers that can output a special signal for 180-270 deg. In any case most of those MG996R derivatives (what I'm calling them now) can go 180 deg even if they don't say so. I wouldn't go with the 270 because they remove the plastic stops, meaning the metal pin stops the gear by smashing into another gear.

Coming from the Telecom world, specifically fiber optics, I could not agree more with you on the strain relief thing!

This one time I fixed a fiber optic cable with duct tape. Said nobody ever lol.
 
The 180 & 270 options only matter if your radio can send that large of a pulse width. Normal radios max out before 90 deg total, better will do about 120. Usually it's robotic controllers that can output a special signal for 180-270 deg. In any case most of those MG996R derivatives (what I'm calling them now) can go 180 deg even if they don't say so. I wouldn't go with the 270 because they remove the plastic stops, meaning the metal pin stops the gear by smashing into another gear.



This one time I fixed a fiber optic cable with duct tape. Said nobody ever lol.

:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:
 
A little help with our little rig please,

The RGT 1/24 is our first micro. I think we got about 10 minutes, maybe more, out of the first run on the stock 220mah 4.8v nimh. We got it yesterday. Now, after maybe 4 packs, spaced out accordingly, we are getting under 4 minutes of run time.

First, is that normal or is something defective? What could be causing that?

Second, please recommend some micro-sized packs, nimh and lipo, that we could use for long run times.

Many thanks,
MP
 
As for the battery, messure the size of it. And then u can use the Hobbyking battery search.


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That actually sounds about right. 1/10th scale guys get 2-3hrs with mostly partial throttle on batteries 25x as large (11.1@2200mah=24.4 watt-hours, yours = 1 w/hr). I couldn't say if a Lipo would work, you'd have to see if your manual says 7.4v is okay. A 1S lipo will have little less voltage than your nimh and a 2S will have much more.
 
Just wondering how the Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Pro motor turn numbers relate to regular crawler motors?

Obviously ages ago we all ran 55t, then down to 35t but the Pros work from 11 to 20 turns!..

Please help me understand:roll::lmao:

Thanks.
 
Just wondering how the Holmes Hobbies Crawlmaster Pro motor turn numbers relate to regular crawler motors?

Obviously ages ago we all ran 55t, then down to 35t but the Pros work from 11 to 20 turns!..

Please help me understand:roll::lmao:

Thanks.

The turns on regular 3 slot motors roughly equate to double the number of turns on a 5 slot Crawlmaster.

Ex. A 16T Crawlmaster is roughly equivalent to a 35T 3 slot motor
 
The turns on regular 3 slot motors roughly equate to double the number of turns on a 5 slot Crawlmaster.

Ex. A 16T Crawlmaster is roughly equivalent to a 35T 3 slot motor

Aha!! Makes sense. Thanks"thumbsup"
 
Can you swap the servo plug into the receiver's throttle spot? Does the trigger now work the servo & wheel work the motor? Just beware the trigger & steering dont' have the same neutral points, so either your ESC want to re-calibrate neutral or take off at half throttle reverse.
 
I just changed my PP 540 3500 kv to the new PP R 540-L 4100 in my bomber.. but it feels slower and not as quick when i pull the trigger from stand still (torque?) i'm thinking maybe battery issue? but not sure.. because i run Gens ace 3s 4000mah 25c.. can this be the issue with it not get its full potential?(to low c-rating?) btw running Mamba x esc.. would be nice to get an answer before i spend money some new batteries..
 
I just changed my PP 540 3500 kv to the new PP R 540-L 4100 in my bomber.. but it feels slower and not as quick when i pull the trigger from stand still (torque?) i'm thinking maybe battery issue? but not sure.. because i run Gens ace 3s 4000mah 25c.. can this be the issue with it not get its full potential?(to low c-rating?) btw running Mamba x esc.. would be nice to get an answer before i spend money some new batteries..

I doubt 25C is the issue - that's good for 100amps burst. There's no way that little motor pulls that. At least the way I understand it.

Are you testing voltage output? Is it getting fully charged?

Isn't a 4100 motor a little slower than a 3500 anyway?
 
I doubt 25C is the issue - that's good for 100amps burst. There's no way that little motor pulls that. At least the way I understand it.

Are you testing voltage output? Is it getting fully charged?

Isn't a 4100 motor a little slower than a 3500 anyway?

thanks for the interest.. what i saw now is they recommend 3800mah @35 c or more which is 133 amps ... you times kv against volt so 4100 is 600 rpm more pr volts than the 3500.. so should be quite faster..

still hoping for a holmes based answer though "thumbsup"
 
Be sure you have 30% punch control on your ESC. Any bogging can typically be solved with that. The 4100L puts down a lot more power than the 3500, so any acceleration lag is probably your battery getting over taxed. If punch control doesn't solve it, then you should probably look towards some fresh cells. The 4100L is a mean motor that does like healthy batteries.
 
Just installed a brand new, Hitec HS-5565MH servo in my new Traxxas 1/10 Rally. I utilize HiTec servos in 3 other vehicles. As soon as I power up the vehicle, the servo emits a loud, high pitch buzzing noise continuously. I know digital servos can be loud and emit noises, but this one is really obnoxious. The HiTec HS-7954-SH units I use in my crawlers buzz a little bit, but nothing like this one. I checked my travel at the radio and set it to 100%. Strangely, as i'm adjusting that, it seems to quiet down. But, as soon as I confirm the settings and back out of the menu, the noise starts right back up. The servo itself is fully operational. I left it powered up for 5 mins and steered it back and forth regularly. It never built up any excess heat or anything. Also, the servo is just in the chassis and no linkages or even a servo horn on installed on it, so no binding anywhere. I also set the internal BEC voltage on the Mamba X to 6.5 volts, so there should be no issues there. IDK if this is just a particularly loud servo or what?
 
I've got the Mamba X ESC installed and everything is up and running in the new Rally. (after a call to HiTec, the servo is fine, just LOUD). Anyway, the car runs great and awesome power. The only thing I noticed today was that the ESC is armed as soon as I plug the battery in, even when the ESC power switch is in the OFF position. It's not really a huge deal as I don't even have on/off switches on my other ESCs, but it's a quirk that will bother me until I figure it out. Just a bad switch? Any thoughts?
 
any idea when you will have more of the dual mini torque masters available. my mamba max on my clod rig died and I'm looking at the dual mini or picking up a pair of the wp1080
 
didn't know such a thing existed as I was going buy recommendations in another thread. I've been out off the rc game since 2010
 
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