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Have tech questions? Will answer.

With your Wraith, set your start power to high, punch at 30%, make sure the cable is in, set to dithered and smartsense. JRH told me those on mine and they work great. Brakes are set to full crawler(213% drag) 40% brake


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With your Wraith, set your start power to high, punch at 30%, make sure the cable is in, set to dithered and smartsense. JRH told me those on mine and they work great. Brakes are set to full crawler(213% drag) 40% brake


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Ok - so yours was doing the same thing initially Mike?

I’ll make those adjustments and check it out. It’s strange because the 1.9 Truggy was spot on right out of the gate. I realize it’s a didferent rig, but same gearing, same trans set up (virtually), and right about the same weight, heft.
 
With your Wraith, set your start power to high, punch at 30%, make sure the cable is in, set to dithered and smartsense. JRH told me those on mine and they work great. Brakes are set to full crawler(213% drag) 40% brake


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Also - did you do anything with throttle curve?
 
You could also try swapping the sensor cables, they're not terribly reliable (from any MFG).

That's what I was thinking. Maybe I just got a bad sensor cable? I'm going to give Mike's settings a shot and see what that gets me. If it's still acting up, I'll call in to HH and see what they think.

Thanks guys!"thumbsup"
 
You could also try swapping the sensor cables, they're not terribly reliable (from any MFG).



My first thoughts.
I had that happen a couple of times , after fiddling with something else, the sensor wire was partially out.
I can creeeeeep with just a bit of throttle, I do not run any throttle or brake curves, nor expo on the controller.


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My first thoughts.
I had that happen a couple of times , after fiddling with something else, the sensor wire was partially out.
I can creeeeeep with just a bit of throttle, I do not run any throttle or brake curves, nor expo on the controller.


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Sensor cable appears to be snugly in at the motor and esc. The symptoms also seem more pronounced when turning.
 
Sensor cable appears to be snugly in at the motor and esc. The symptoms also seem more pronounced when turning.

Since the front end is locked up, when you turn its putting more load on it. You could swap sensor wires between both rigs and see what happens.
 
Since the front end is locked up, when you turn its putting more load on it. You could swap sensor wires between both rigs and see what happens.

I know - but, the drivetrain has not changed since the CrawlMaster 13t and BRXL. So, all things being equal there, this is definitely a pronounced cogging and stuttering. I was thinking the same thing though. Swap the cables and see what I get. Sucks though because I’ve got each of them cleanly routed and stashed away on each respective vehicle. So, lotsa dickin around with that in my future.:cry:
 
I've seen many people with many diff MFG motors/cables have visually-good cables end up being the problem. Remember that the signals they carry are delicate, and any bit of EMI "noise" can cause problems. It boggles my mind why sensor cables still have no strain relief nor shielding.
 
I've seen many people with many diff MFG motors/cables have visually-good cables end up being the problem. Remember that the signals they carry are delicate, and any bit of EMI "noise" can cause problems. It boggles my mind why sensor cables still have no strain relief nor shielding.

Coming from the Telecom world, specifically fiber optics, I could not agree more with you on the strain relief thing! Also, the sensor cable connectors themselves seem like they should snap/lock in better than they do.
 
Ok. So after a lot of frustration and dicking around, I think I've got it figured out. I did mikemcE's settings (Thanks Mike!) and that seemed to help a bit, but it was still cogging/stuttering a bit. I mentioned it worsened when I was steering earlier in this thread. That got me to thinking. I just put a new Spektrum receiver in this that is AVC capable. Well, low and behold, these ship with AVC enabled. I was able to find a link on disabling it using two bind plugs. I just completed the procedure and did a little test run out in the garage. Everything looks 100% better than it did! I'm guessing the AVC was somehow dicking with the steering/throttle input mix and causing the issue. Should be able to get out and do a real test tomorrow to make sure, but so far so good.

Thanks again for all the feedback and suggestions guys - I greatly appreciate it!

BTW mikemcE - I noticed with Dither on, the motor makes a different sound now? Was this the case for you as well. It's not a bad sound or anything - almost sounds like a slipper does when it's engaging.
 
I noticed that also, I’m not having heat issues so all is well. I’d not thought about the AVC, but I know on the Traxxas version of it I “stabilized” the servo and throttle, I turn it off there. Now go rip that puppy and have some fun !!


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I noticed that also, I’m not having heat issues so all is well. I’d not thought about the AVC, but I know on the Traxxas version of it I “stabilized” the servo and throttle, I turn it off there. Now go rip that puppy and have some fun !!


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Yeah, the whole AVC thing is funky. You can inhibit/turn it off from the TX, but it doesn’t really fully turn it off that way.:roll:

Hopefully I can shake it down a bit today, but we got more snow last night and it’s 10 degrees outside. :shock:
 
BTW - I've got one of those, just installed it into my Ascender K10.

Servo arm that comes free is a nice piece!

Haven't run it yet... can't beat the price, considering the good reviews out there.

The only difference is mine is the 270deg version, but for r/c vehicle steering 180deg is all that's needed.

Didn't even notice when I ordered mine about the 2 options, but specs and part number match even so.
 
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