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Have tech questions? Will answer.

I have one question:

I'm running a Novak Eiger 2s/3s ESC along with Spektrum DX4S, Savox 0231MG Servo, Warn 9.5 Winch and Led lights. I would like to upgrade my rig to 3S battery. What do I need to do, install or purchase to do so?

Cheers

Here's the manual: http://manuals.hobbico.com/nov/novm1835-basic-guide.pdf

It says you need an external BEC for 3s lipo - so get one of these, they're about $20: CCBEC 10A PEAK 25V MAX INPUT SBEC

Lots of info on 'how to wire a BEC' here. HH has a splitter to make it easy:
https://holmeshobbies.com/electroni...ssories/holmes-hobbies-rx-bypass-adapter.html

Or one of these for your winch too: https://holmeshobbies.com/electroni...-rx-bypass-adapter-with-auxiliary-output.html

He sells the Castle BEC's too.
 
I think it's been asked before but since the puller pro standard is out of stock, would you recommend the new puller pro R 4100kv as a first brushless motor or just wait for restock ? (bomber rr10).

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
Radio Binding Question

I have an extra xr4 and ar3 so I'm hoping I can bind the two but I havnt tried yet. is there a reason why they wouldn't bind?

RC4wd xr4 transmitter to a axial ar-3 receiver???

both 2.4ghz

Thanks "thumbsup"
 
I think it's been asked before but since the puller pro standard is out of stock, would you recommend the new puller pro R 4100kv as a first brushless motor or just wait for restock ? (bomber rr10).

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Looks in stock to me? I know we have plenty in the warehouse. https://holmeshobbies.com/motors/brushless-motors/puller-pro-series/puller-pro-bl-540-standard.html

But the 4100 would be quite nice in a bomber too.

Radio Binding Question

I have an extra xr4 and ar3 so I'm hoping I can bind the two but I havnt tried yet. is there a reason why they wouldn't bind?

RC4wd xr4 transmitter to a axial ar-3 receiver???

both 2.4ghz

Thanks "thumbsup"

I don't have experience with that radio. Maybe someone else does.
 
Looks like yellow is positive and blue is negative for motor connection. And the titan already has red/black wire leads attached. Yellow to red and blue to black. Seems pretty simple?
I swapped the wires and recalibrated and voilà!
It's now working great.

Thank you

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Question,

I just emailed holmes but might get a faster response here. I'm running a BLE with the lipo cutoff at 3.4 volts. I have a holmes bypass running to dual servos straight off the battery. I was doing some testing and had two 3s at 40% and 38%. They both shut off and when I got my tester, one was at 7.8 volts and the other was at 8 volts...or 1% and 7%! Does running the bypass kill the lipo cutoff or is it possible the lipo cutoff just isn't working? Something ain't right. No lights, or winch or anything like that was being run at the time. Help a brother out! G:roll:
 
Your runnning servos directly off the battery ...... is what I read, if so you don’t have the BLE involved, you don’t have a lipo cut off.


Hang up and Drive
 
Your runnning servos directly off the battery ...... is what I read, if so you don’t have the BLE involved, you don’t have a lipo cut off.


Hang up and Drive



Right...but wouldn’t the esc still sense the battery was at cutoff voltage? It’s not like I just sat and wiggled my servos for 30% of my battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Only if the feed goes thru it. Only common in your setup is the ground , circuits always need two sides.
What the esc does normally in lipo cutoff is stop the power to the motor, but allows the servo to still wiggle.
Thermal shuts both down.

Hang up and Drive
 
Last edited:
Only if the feed goes thru it. Only common in your setup is the ground , circuits always need two sides.
What the esc does normally in lipo cutoff is stop the power to the motor, but allows the servo to still wiggle.
Thermal shuts both down.

Hang up and Drive

Dammit, thought about this some more. When I said testing, I was driving. Power to the motor and power through the bypass coming off the battery. The motor was getting juice through the esc and ran fine. Started to glitch a little and that's when I stopped...switched batteries and again went to what I thought was the lipo cutting off the motor. In the configuration I mentioned, the esc doesn't know that I'm running the servos or a winch or lights, but still knows I'm running the motor. Hence my confusion on why the cutoff didn't kill the motor earlier. Thoughts?:cry: Both my lipos are in lockdown in lipo bags in an ammo box on the concrete in the middle of the shop.
 
Merry Christmas John,

I will have this spare ESC/RX https://www.horizonhobby.com/esc-rx-24ghz-v3-1-10-scale-wp-ecx13006 unit leftover since I will run the HW1080 in the Barrage and the Dynamite 60A in the Amp kit. My question is, would it be possible to use this in my 1/24 RGT/ECX/FTX scaler? I would not have thought so, but I have seen a video of a guy using the stock 1/12 Barrage ESC (60A Dynamite) in the 1/24 FTX Outback.

Thanks,
MP
 
Hello Mr. Holmes -

So, as of Christmas I have gotten both my new HH Puller Pro systems installed. 3300kv stubby in my Truggy. 3500kv standard in my Wraith. (Using your BLE esc’s in both) Start up, power and torque are seamles on the Truggy and i’m LOVIN it! However, in the Wraith, i’m getting severe cogging and stuttering at low speed when attempting to crawl and having the motor under any load. I run 11.1v 3s 35c packs. Gearing is 32p 57T spur, 10T pinion. Also running over / under gearing. 38/13 up front and 43/13 out back. I’ve also tried three different packs to make sure it wasn’t a battery issue. Sensor cable is plugged in to motor and esc. I’ve also checked all the settings in Castle Link. Any idea what could be going on here? Could it be a bad sensor cable?

Help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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