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Hacked up Newbright TJ (first rig and post!)

saltinemadness said:
haha! holy shit! yeah yours is the one i was actually talking about copying! i just couldn't remember who built it. i was gonna do the cage the same as you did by the seats too, except i started my dovetail right at the doors, so i had to wrap the cage around the seats and mount it in the middle. I think i'm gonna leave my windshield on mine though. yeah yours looked sick, i saved your images on my comp to use as a reference when i was dovetailing mine!
Click to expand...


Im glad my piece of junk inspired someone! i was playin with it like a day after it was done and it dropped off a big ledge and broke the whole front clip off, so i scrap'd it.... i might take the cage and build a full chassis out of it tho.

I hope yours turns out sweet!! "thumbsup"
 
W.o.w.

:shock:
dang. very nice detail on all these parts bro! the pictures are really show off the quality you put into this rig and i must say i am very, VERY impressed.
it's a long way down the road before i do something like this.
You have had your inspirations and now i've just added another, "thumbsup".

keep up the good work!
 
Lookin awesome!!

Reminds me of mine:

attachment.php


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Jester2-3002_0001.jpg
 
Need some help / ideas

Okay guys,
I have the panhard bar in and working perfectly. Only problem is, after shortening the front so much and the fact that my panhard bar tucks up into the frame, i have limited servo space.

Questions:
1. has anyone ever done BTA steering to a basically stock SCX10? if so, could someone please show me the thread.

2. is there a manufacturer that makes high clearance "ambidextrous" knuckles? ... like one knuckle in the set has double ackerman arms that would allow me to at least run the tie rod in front of the axle but have the drag link mounted to the "double ackerman armed" knuckle behind the axle?


The new panhard bar with new 3 / 4 link truss:


_DSC0003 by saltinemadness, on Flickr

Compressed-it goes down the whole way, the right side is up because i was trying to hold the camera still more, than squish the crawler, but everything DOES cycle perfectly... nothing rubs or bumps or stops short.


_DSC0006 by saltinemadness, on Flickr

But this is the room i have to work with behind the panhard bar:


_DSC0004 by saltinemadness, on Flickr

it's so close to being done though!


_DSC0011 by saltinemadness, on Flickr



Does anyone have any ideas? I think zero ackerman knuckles will help too (with BTA steering), but i don't know if they'll fit with my boggers and the offset of the tango down rims.

I basically have to do BTA steering because i don't have room to run the drag link up front :cry:
 
Egressor makes some knuckles for you that'd work. Or just run VP zero ack knuckles backwards, you should be fine. I'll get you the link in a bit.
 
saltinemadness said:
2. is there a manufacturer that makes high clearance "ambidextrous" knuckles? ... like one knuckle in the set has double ackerman arms that would allow me to at least run the tie rod in front of the axle but have the drag link mounted to the "double ackerman armed" knuckle behind the axle?
Click to expand...

You're looking for these, ya?

p1011412.jpg


Just like this, but swapped around....

IMG_4441.jpg


Some other options.

cimg0844.jpg


cimg0745.jpg


Hope that helps some. He's got quite a few more options for you as well as CVD's and lockers. The lockers are bad ass as well as the CVD's.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163665
 
Does the axle cycle to the side at all when compressed? If it does, remember, you'll need to mount the drag link from the servo to the passanger knuckle to eliminate it as much as possible. It will also help if the length of the drag link is the same as the length of the panhard bar and the angle from hole to hole is the same as the panhard bar. If the agnles are off, it'll cause bump steer and if you put the drag link to the drivers side knuckle, it'll also cause bump steer. Just a thought. I think you did a great job with it, it'll just make the mounting of the servo a challenge. But then again, you could always do a scale looking steering gearbox with pushrods to the remote mounted steering servo. It'd free up lots of room in the front and let you place the servo wherever you wanted.
 
Sure thing. Did you ever put your work out weights in the super swampers? Those are 1.9's, right?
 
53Guy said:
Does the axle cycle to the side at all when compressed? If it does, remember, you'll need to mount the drag link from the servo to the passanger knuckle to eliminate it as much as possible. It will also help if the length of the drag link is the same as the length of the panhard bar and the angle from hole to hole is the same as the panhard bar. If the agnles are off, it'll cause bump steer and if you put the drag link to the drivers side knuckle, it'll also cause bump steer. Just a thought. I think you did a great job with it, it'll just make the mounting of the servo a challenge. But then again, you could always do a scale looking steering gearbox with pushrods to the remote mounted steering servo. It'd free up lots of room in the front and let you place the servo wherever you wanted.
Click to expand...

it does cycle a little to the side, but returns to it's original position at the top of the cycle... (kind of swings). yeah i know i need to mount the drag link to the passenger side knuckle, but i think it's just going to have to be a little longer than the panhard. We'll just have to see what happens. i could just redo the truss and have a panhard mounting tab where it bolts to the axle like everyone else's. Tell me more about this steering gearbox and pushrods? i don't think i've ever seen this sort of thing on an scx10. i think i know what you're talking about though... kinda like a rack and pinion steering system?
 
53Guy said:
Sure thing. Did you ever put your work out weights in the super swampers? Those are 1.9's, right?
Click to expand...

nah, i have just the foams they came with in them right now... i'm gonna put the memory foam in them and then just use lead weights... but if the cage makes it too top heavy, i'll try putting the wrist weights in em. makes the truck super heavy, but holy $hit, talk about traction... i would rarely roll over. *yeah they're 1.9s*
 
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The best way I can describe it is like a bellcrank for buggies or stadium trucks. You could find one or make one with a 1" or .75" lower arm, 90* offset with a larger upper arm than lower to give you better leverage. Here's a few pictures from my XB8. It's beefy and doesn't need to be this crazy but you'll get the idea.

DSC_0034-1.jpg


DSC_0033-2.jpg


DSC_0031-1.jpg
 
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