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Haastnooit's YTC Secret Agent 3.5

Thanks everyone "thumbsup" Yes I agree Tomi, it would look nice on the shelf ... crawlers are pure Tech-art nowadays .... However it might look even better on the rocks :twisted: For sure first big hits and scratches will hurt a bit, but eventually build character :mrgreen:

This is why you buy a used SA chassis, already had a few scratches so no need for tears. :mrgreen:
 
I saw your thread Losiking, your rig looks great "thumbsup"

Thanks for the concern DR ... but I will be fine :lmao:
 
nok nok nok nok nok .... sound of my fingers drumming the workbench :mrgreen:

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My electronics is in the mail "thumbsup" Come on postal guys get it here, I wanna have it already. She is in need of a pounding heart :twisted:
 
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Well she is finally done .... finishing up took me a long time:mrgreen:.

I always tend to slow down towards the end of a build, mostly because of electronics. And this time there are 2 major changes and challenge's, a new radio cause of the dual ESC setup and the electronics smashjob.

Programming the 4PL was a breeze, Harley's 4PL thread will take anyone to the desired results "thumbsup" Great help, thanks for that. I left the smashing to Chris_the_Batteryman, not having the correct tools almost made me fawk up big time .... Anyhow here is a listing of the electronics:

Electronics
CC bec 10A (set at 7.2V)
Hitec HS-7950TH
RR motormount
Tekin FX-R (2x)
Tekin 45T pro handwound motor (2x)
Futaba 4PL
Futaba R2104GF

Mods:
- decased and smashed FXR's (by Chris_the_Batteryman)
- decased RX
- decased CC bec

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IMG_7730_resize_zpsdf0d937d.jpg


IMG_7738_resize_zps0ee1b07e.jpg


Final weight:

IMG_7753_resize_zps88e0a8c6.jpg


She made it just below 2100 gram thanks to installing some TRX#5355x aluminium balls in all links, tierods and shocks. First tests were good, I think I will keep it at this weight for now with only a little balance adjustment "thumbsup"

[edit] RTR weight as shown in the pics is with a Turnigy 45-90C nanotech 3S 850mah lipo (76 gram) on the front axle.
 
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Nice job on the build. The more you drive it, the more little tweaks you will make, it will just keep getting better!
 
Thanks ... I am sure she needs some tweaking to get the most out, hope I am able do so. First up is lightening the rearend a bit, this will hopefully move the bias slightly forward.
 
Front top links look like left hand threads!

What do you mean ? They are stock chaotic links .... On the picture the links are both turned inwards to the centerline, when the rodends are in normal vertical position the links appear straight on a sideview ....
 
It just looks like the link ends have a left hand thread, it must be an optical illusion...or the new year alcohol overload kicking in
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Very nice SA build thread. Wow!! 4.375 pounds and you werent even trying!!! Great Job!! The skins are awesome and kudos on sending your electronics to Chris_the_battery_man, he did a very good job for you!!! "thumbsup"
 
Very nice SA build thread. Wow!! 4.375 pounds and you werent even trying!!! Great Job!! The skins are awesome and kudos on sending your electronics to Chris_the_battery_man, he did a very good job for you!!! "thumbsup"

Thanks JJ "thumbsup" I dig the panels as well, made the sidepanels out of the Tekin Hotwire packaging .... really thin and light. And you can use spraypaint on it :)

hope to see it the 27/01

I will be there ... but depends a litlle bit on the weatherconditions "thumbsup"
 
Today I made a start with moving the weightbias forward by lightening the rearend. The first step is the most easy and will cost no dough ... changing back to stock lockouts. There will be a next step in lightening the rearaxle, but that will probably involve new parts so I am thinking about which way to go ...

Weightloss rear axle step 1

On: Axial XR10 lockouts
Off: VP lockouts

Mods:
- countersunk screwholes

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Weights:

IMG_7758_resize_zps60f14285.jpg


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New RTR weight:

IMG_7761_resize_zps0df2500f.jpg
 
Nice simple and cheap swap. Try rotating your lockouts and drill new holes. You can get it angled up and avoid the screws hitting the rocks at all.

Wes
 
Nice simple and cheap swap. Try rotating your lockouts and drill new holes. You can get it angled up and avoid the screws hitting the rocks at all.

Wes

The thing I did is grind down that part were the screws go and than just use a set screw there... No catching up on anything and holds perfectly!
 
This is what I did. Grind off the "nub" and countersunk the lockout. Not a ton of meat left, but plenty to hold it there"thumbsup"

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Nice simple and cheap swap. Try rotating your lockouts and drill new holes. You can get it angled up and avoid the screws hitting the rocks at all.

Wes

Thanks Wes, I know about people rotating the lockouts. Maybe I will try it after some more runtime

The thing I did is grind down that part were the screws go and than just use a set screw there... No catching up on anything and holds perfectly!

Seems like a nice way, you got pics ?

This is what I did. Grind off the "nub" and countersunk the lockout. Not a ton of meat left, but plenty to hold it there"thumbsup"

I wanted to do it this way, but looked at the lockout and decide wall thickness would probably not be enough to hold. I just remember I saw it before in Yoshi's DD thread and now yours. What screwlength you ended up using ? How long have you had it like so ? I am thinking about doing a front case in the rear, as you have one do you think this will lighten up the rear ?

Very clean build man. Nice job on the details!

Thanks for the compliments, love your builds as well. You and JD are funny characters :mrgreen: always put a smile to my face "thumbsup"

were did you get the graffics on the body panel done at

In my barn :mrgreen: using spraypaint and reinforcement tape
 
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