Thanks Redwood. "thumbsup"
You know that I'm close, you have my number.... If you need anything to help make it possible for you to make it on the 28th let me know!
Thanks Todd, I'll let you know but I work odd hours. :ror:
Man, Guido just keeps getting better & better."thumbsup" I have not even started, how am I going to catch up?:?
You can do it DTP! Your's will be bad ass. "thumbsup" Thanks bud.
Hey Grizz glad to see the new and improved Guido coming along!!! I have a question about steering and four links though? If I wanted to put my servo up on the frame with double triangulated 4 links do I still need a panhard or are you guys using them more for scale looks? Would my steering perform just as well as it does now?
Hey Mikey, if your drag link (steering servo to knuckle) is pretty flat or you don't have a lot of travel in the front end then you can get away with a triangulated (single or double) 4-link. Since I am going to run the limiting strap the front axle will not drop out and I most likely could have gotten away with a triangulated 4-link and no panhard bar.
While my front upper links have some triangulation it is not enough to fully locate the axle. There is still some side to side movement of the axle with the panhard bar disconnected. Not much but just enough. The main reason I did this setup is because it is "technically" correct to run a panhard on a 1:1 with frame mounted steering and I wanted to keep the scale aspect of that. But, I also want to make sure my steering works as good as it possibly can and the panhard is the way to do that.
Look at the first two pictures below of Guido. With a drag link angle like that you could get away with a triangulated 4-link and no panhard. You might have some bump steer but it would be minimal. Especially in the first pic where Guido was running 3.5" shocks.
Now look at the third picture and notice how much angle is on the drag link and how much travel the front suspension has. If I were to try and run a chassis mounted steering servo and a triangulated 4-link on that setup the bump steer would have been horrible.
As far as steering performance goes it's hard to beat an axle mounted servo. The main reason is that the drag link always pushes on the knuckle at the same angle no matter how the axle is articulated. If your servo is set right, the drag link may be almost parallel to the ground (vehicle sitting flat) and this is the optimal setup. The reason is that as the servo end of the drag link gets farther from the tie rod (more drag link angle) some servo power is lost trying to push the steering arm into the ground and what is left is used to turn the tires. So under articulation a chassis mounted servo will lose some steering strength as the knuckle drops away from the frame. The axle mounted servo will always push with the same force no matter how the axle is articulated.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks guys.
. I just reworked my steering as well, and now have the zero ackerman Vanquish knuckles on the EB along with Super 300 CVD's. I think I'm ready for a special motor from Mr. Holmes too :mrgreen:. Can't wait to see your progress on this, Montana is going to be an epic battle this year......
I thought I was done with scalers and then you and the Utards break out all the cool builds. Sigh, guess I'll put the berg up on the shelf for a while and play with the torch:mrgreen:
