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Exceed mad torque 1/8 to 1/10 scale budget build!

I have a couple of updates you might be interested in.
Narrowed the wheels by 20mm:


So I took that 20mm off the axle extensions and reduced the track width 40mm front and rear.


Which meant I had to relocate my shocks because at full turn the tires would just barely rub the springs on the shocks.




So as it is now, the wheelbase is 13 and the track width is 10.
 
I have a couple of updates you might be interested in.
Narrowed the wheels by 20mm:


So I took that 20mm off the axle extensions and reduced the track width 40mm front and rear.


Which meant I had to relocate my shocks because at full turn the tires would just barely rub the springs on the shocks.




So as it is now, the wheelbase is 13 and the track width is 10.
Thanks I'm definitely interested. I wouldn't mind at all if you wanna share any future mods as well. It's great to see new custom ideas.
I've been thinkin about narrowing my stock wheels for a while as well. Just been liking the look of the 2.2's. I might just have to give it a try after seeing how good your rig looks with big wheels and smaller wheelbase.
Did you use the ca glue method? What's the bead width measure now?
 
Did narrowing the wheels affect the tire dimensions at all? What are you running for foams?

Not sure on the bead width. It's probably close to an inch. All I know for sure is that the portion I removed was 20mm wide. The tires got narrower, and a little taller, which is exactly what I wanted. I couldn't be happier with how they turned out. And I used Loctite 495 to glue the rims back together. For foams, I'm running these in the soft version: Single Stage Double Deuce Pair (2)
 
I just called C.I. today about some foams for my tires. Should be ordering a set soon.
Have you considered narrowing the tires? I think if I did the wheels I'd take 1/2-3/4" out of the tires also.
 
The foams are a bit too short, so there is an air gap between it and the inside of the tire. It doesn't seem to hurt the performance, and they work a million times better than the stock garbage. And yeah, I've thought about "cutting and shutting" the tires, but I don't think I'm going to, because they just work really well, and I like the way they look now.
 
I decided to change my bottom links back to the stainless set I have. Also swapped the rear uppers to longer ones. It clocked the motor up for better clearance and protection purposes. I need to mod my frame a little so I can run the bottoms inboard. Here's some pics of how it's setup now.
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This one shows the abuse the motor took when I didn't have the skid on.
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I also posted a couple new videos of the backyard course.
 
Started raining so I went out and got muddy with my buddies custom honcho.
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It was the worst conditions I've ran my rig in yet. The video is uploading on YouTube right now.
 
I love them rock sliders you made. And it sucks that they clocked the motor so low. I really wish that there was a way to clock the Chubs so we wouldn't ruin our steering getting the motor out of the way.
 
I love them rock sliders you made. And it sucks that they clocked the motor so low. I really wish that there was a way to clock the Chubs so we wouldn't ruin our steering getting the motor out of the way.
Thanks, the sliders didn't come out quite how I wanted them but they work great so I'm happy with them.
There's a few ways to clock the chubs. Enroute berg axle tubes can be used with the mt trans case. They come in metal and have a lot of aftermarket options. That would probably be the best and most expensive way.
Another is to cut and grind the ends of the stock tubes into a hex shape to accept chubs. You would need to predetermine how much you want it clocked and it wouldn't be adjustable. Here's an example of this process.
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Another idea I had would be to cut the ends off say an axial axle and the stock mt axle and attach the 2 with a small tube as a inner sleeve for strength.
 
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Rain in Oly?! Say it ain't so, lol. I picked up a set of 40 series mudders for mine for use in the snow here, you might want to think about something like that for yours.
 
Had a rear shock come apart. The threads on the plastic body are stripped. Since there was only a $1 price difference I ordered a set of aluminum bodied shocks for $18. This prompted me to finally fab up my link/shock mount adapters. I got the rears done so far.
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Also decided to cut some more off my trep's. Trimmed the middle lugs to open up the center of the tire. The tire on the left is uncut, the middle tire has the right side trimmed, and the right one has both sides trimmed.
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Here's all 4 complete.
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Once I get some CI foams these should perform much better.
 
A little update for you man. Got my 4 link mounts done front and rear. I also ordered some Axial 2.2 Rocksters, and some Proline Super Swamper XLs for it tonight.
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A little update for you man. Got my 4 link mounts done front and rear. I also ordered some Axial 2.2 Rocksters, and some Proline Super Swamper XLs for it tonight.
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Nice link mounts. How do you fab your stuff? Can't wait to see those swampers on your rig.
I got my new shocks this morning. Would have had them yesterday but the mailman thought my empty mailbox didn't have enough room. Had to get them from the main post office.
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Also got new axle shafts I'm goin to put in the front and a spare 3rd gear. My lhs had my 16 tooth hardened steel pinions I ordered come in the other day too. I swapped these and the rear shocks and did a little testing. Shocks perform excellent, I didn't realize just how bad my other set is til I felt these. The pinions seem to be fine so far, although now there is a little whine coming from my gear boxes. I rechecked the mesh multiple times and everything is lined up and runs smooth. I even regreased all gears and it's still noticeably loud compared to the stock 12t pinions. Besides that I did gain a little speed. My truck is now faster than walking speed.
Tomorrow I plan to make the link adapters for the front and change the shocks then I'll take some pics.
 
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