• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Holy Shit! I think I might need to change my shorts after seeing that artwork.....

Waaaaaaaay outta' my budget.....but still....

Mine too, I should do something responsible with the tax return like put it in savings... But nah, addicts don't do responsible things...

Better on the back of my rig than smoked, snorted, or shot in my veins though! At least with this addiction I suffer from, I'll have something tangible and long term enjoyable to show for the money spent. "thumbsup"
 
Last edited:
Way sweet, I've been looking forward to the release of these. Though the price blows my mind, but I get it"thumbsup"
Later,
Farmer
 
That'll be quite a setup! :shock:

I've blown the majority of my budget on the Yeti, but I would wager a complete DLUX front/rear end would be next on my list. Did you ever get a chance to run with the DLUX open diff front end option?

ETA: also, with the setup you'll end up having, are you gearing more for a crawler setup, a basher, or U4RC trophy runner?
 
I just spent the last 2.5 hours beating on this thing! In the dark with out the lid on... I still need to get the back wheels together, zero out and properly setup the servo (though it works, I'm picky), and get a few of the scale touches finished up. But I'm convinced this rig is as sturdy as the parts list says it should be now!

The front diff works great! For those of you wanting the beef that the ofna setup brings, but don't want the front locked this setup is just killer!

Last night I put a little over 4 hours of ultra high traction torture on the Yeti. Driving on very coarse asphalt with the neighbor kids skate ramps setup in the street, doing donuts, drifts, and of course jumps. To keep the rig balanced in air I needed to stay in the throttle while airborne, and to stress test the drive train I did not always let off before landing. Quite a few full throttle landings and everything is holding tight, The rig and more importantly the front diff took it all like a champ!

That'll be quite a setup! :shock:

I've blown the majority of my budget on the Yeti, but I would wager a complete DLUX front/rear end would be next on my list. Did you ever get a chance to run with the DLUX open diff front end option?

Yep! Over 8 in hours total, 6.5 hours after getting the e-clip issue sorted. It works great!

For testing I have been geared for bashing 18/64, but I will be dropping to an 11t pinion long term, as I will be primarily "crawling" it.
 
Good to know! Once DLUX drops the open diff option, I'll plunk down the cash and start the finger tapping. :mrgreen:
 
Good to know! Once DLUX drops the open diff option, I'll plunk down the cash and start the finger tapping. :mrgreen:

They should be coming very soon! Per my conversation with Erik he will be starting a production run of them and have them as an option on his site shortly. I don't have an exact date, but keep your eyes peeled for them in the next few days to a week or so.
 
Last question for the day...I know you had to do some shaving to get the RPM a-arms not to rub with the bigger ofna cups. Did you try test fitting the stock Exo/Yeti A-arms instead for fitment as well?
 
Last question for the day...I know you had to do some shaving to get the RPM a-arms not to rub with the bigger ofna cups. Did you try test fitting the stock Exo/Yeti A-arms instead for fitment as well?

No, but I will and let you know "thumbsup" My stock arms are still connected to their parts tree...

I don't think they will rub, they have a channel in them where the RPM arms have a "bubble". What I did to the RPM arms was make them more closely follow the profile of the stock arms.
 
It looks like there could be some contact on the stock arm, in comparison to the other side with the shock mounted it is at full compression and right at the bump stop though. So if any trimming at all is needed it would be just a light sanding of that thick part.

5DEB1C07-3DC0-41D1-BECD-F35DC5360165_zpsi7yagpd9.jpg
 
Awesome, thanks for the info. :mrgreen:

With that said, I'm thinking I might go back to the stock arms, slap the t-bone racing a-arm skids, and the DMG pin stiffeners, when I get the DLUX front end. Might be a better bullet proof solution when it comes to skidding around rocks and such.
 
I had an interesting finding tonight. Since Erik's shop monkey accidentally cut my swaybar links too short and he has new ones on the way to me, I removed my swaybar. Slightly bummed that beautiful Ti might just be waste I started wracking my noggin with a way to repurpose one. It turns out that if I screw the rod ends down all the way, the oops link is the perfect length for the servo linkage!"thumbsup"

1BA1EF96-56C8-4027-83A7-F0A8E17A1797_zpsphvwga38.jpg
 
How do those wheels fit? Looks really tight next to the arm on the knuckle...

I had to chamfer the edge of the fronts on the inside just a hair, I am running the "narrow" hub setup up front. But after that they clear fine. It is tight, but tight is gooooooood! And there is NO slop in the DLUX setup, so they won't rub.

I got a few more of the little things done tonight too. Got the rear wheels together! The arthritis in my hands is screaming at me... And got the lights mounted and wired up!

I need a bec for this thing now, the mmp handled it until the lights went on. I ran the same setup in the wraith as a 2ch rig for a few years without one.

Good and tiiiiiiiight duuuuuuuude!






These wheels are fawkin' sexy Duuuuuuuude! Thanks again for making them.




 
Last edited:
I have known about these for a while now and been waiting to be able to place my order "thumbsup"

swaybar4_zps2909a574.jpg



Erik has a giveaway going that I am sure you have all seen by now. If you are not the lucky winner, or like me want one before the giveaway ends, tey are available here: DLUX FAB | products
 
Duuuuuuuude does an awesome job on those wheels. If I ever run anything besides a flat faced wheel again, I will be coming his way.

A simple solution to chamfering the wheels would be to run one of my hub spacers. 1/16" might have done it?
 
Oh, and to add to the clearance of the OFNA shaft setup to the stock arms...

You do need to clearance them a hair.
 
Duuuuuuuude does an awesome job on those wheels. If I ever run anything besides a flat faced wheel again, I will be coming his way.

A simple solution to chamfering the wheels would be to run one of my hub spacers. 1/16" might have done it?

Or I could have used the wide shim and run wider with no need to chamfer. I want the track width as narrow as possible with your setup and the offset rim I had him make me (standard Yeti offset on a 1" wide rim). So it was not a big deal TO ME to chuck the wheel up in my poor mans lathe and cut the chamfer.



Poor mans lathe for chamfering edges of plastic\delrin round things:

1 cordless drill
1 rear shaft with vp hub mounted too it
1 hobby knife with fresh #11 blade.

Mount the wheel to the vp hub, chuck the shaft up in the cordless drill, pull the trigger! With the wheel spinning bring the #11 blade in at a 45° angle to the wheel face, and angled about 15° with the sharp edge of the blade facing the way the wheel is spinning. Apply gentle pressure and watch the delrin stat to come off.
 
Sweet. I was going to suggest the Dlux shims if contact was a issue. Glad you got it sorted. "thumbsup"
 
Back
Top