It's pretty straight forward I imagine but I just want to make sure so I don't ruin things. Did you need to drill out the arm on the set screw end? My sway bar don't come close to fitting in. Thanks in advance. "thumbsup"
Yep, the arms are made for the .080 bar. If you are using a larger bar, you will want to drill the arm. "thumbsup"
That sucks if you can't change the bars out for different terrain. For the rock days it would be nice to run the thin bar. Then swap to the thicker bars for high speed track type days.
You should be able to swap out to a smaller diameter bar. It will be sloppy in the hole but it really shouldnt matter.
Ideally, you will probably find a diameter bar that you like and stick with it. There are 3 holes in the aluminum arm. These will drastically change the feel of the sway bar itself so, the hope is to find a diameter bar that you like and then you can just move the end links (links that go to the axle) to change the stiffness.
The closer the end links are to the torsion bar (bar that is in the chassis that twists) the stiffer the bar is. The further from the torsion bar, the softer it will feel.
With that knowledge, run the end links in the closest hole. If the bar is still too soft, get a stiffer bar. Run that in the closest hole again, if its too stiff, you simply want to run in the furthest hole. Like I said above, its a big difference from those 3 holes.
Here is a vendor post with the sway bars and some simple sway bar tech in post 2
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chassis-suspension/527284-uc-fab-sway-bars.html
I hate your having problems with your front diff cups. I am hoping my setup holds better. I must be easier on the throttle.
Dicky's problem was most likely because the shaft pulled out of the drive cup. Sometimes its hard to catch every single problem until it happens. If you keep your shock limiting in check and keep the dog bone in the drive cup, I doubt you will ever have a problem. I dont think DickyT will even have a problem ever again and that is saying a lot.