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bilinvic's Twin Hammers

Worth noting that Bil has raised his gcm plate by about 3mm - a nice mod that allows the big bore shocks to use more of their travel.

I raised the issue of the shock hoops being too short with GCM, but they didn’t seem to get the point.
 
That's too bad...you should've asked. The GTR shocks are really good...but as you know now, way too big for the TH.
 
Would like to ask if you can take some pics of your scorched parts set up from above would like to see how it works with gcm shock mount ?
 
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My truck wants to be like yours lol. Ordered the CORRECT Big Bore shocks lol and have the TRX4 springs waiting. Also ditched the Axial AE-2 ESC with Titan 12T motor and ordered the Castle Mamba X and 1406-3800kv sensored motor. Very much excite!!
 
Just wanted to say really great build thread. I'm going to use it as a blueprint. Looking to pick up a used TH soon. Even if I only go half of what you've done it will be exceptional for my use.

Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
 
Sorry Richterat83, I don't recall what piston is in the front shocks. I didn't measure the internal spacer I used, but if I were to guess it's around 4mm.
 
I got a chance to get the Twin Hammers out on the weekend. I only brought it as a back-up as I was primarily running my 10.2. BTW, it fits nicely in a backpack without the wheels on! My 10.2 had a "malfunction" so I had to switch to the TH about a 1/4 of the way up Mt. Work.....except I forgot the fricken wheels and tires on my bench! I had to use the new 4.19 KLR MT/X tires that were on my 10.2. The 4.19 tires looked awesome on the TH, but performance suffered severely with the lack of ground clearance, especially with the larger pan chassis. Still had fun though.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/39337333855/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_085"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4755/39337333855_82a80da021_o.jpg" width="1200" height="764" alt="TH_085"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/39337333725/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_086"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4662/39337333725_0739398df0_o.jpg" width="1200" height="671" alt="TH_086"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/40202189092/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_084"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4617/40202189092_01dcbc205c_o.jpg" width="1200" height="820" alt="TH_084"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
That definitely must have been a challenge with those small tires. One of the upgrades that I'm doing to my Clone Hammers is to add the tallest 1.9s I could find (4.75"). I may even move up to some 2.2s in the future to get more clearance.

Speaking of backpacks, the first time I had the clone hammers out, I discovered that it fit nicely into my backpack (tires on) when the battery died. There's no way that my Bomber can fit into my backpack, so having this one fit means that it very well may get used on some hikes that the Bomber wouldn't come on.
 
Solid rig you got here! But, I got a question for ya...

What's the thinnest SLW hub that will fit between those Vanquish Outlaw IIs and your Vanquish knuckles?

Getting ready to pick up a set myself but I know the Outlaws have more backspace than some of their other wheels. Hoping I can squeeze a .225 or even Locked Up .185s in there to narrow mine up a bit (don't ask, we ALL know I'm "that" oddball). While I won't be running an overly tall or wide tire, I worry that the tie rod pivot ball and button head screw at the knuckles will get into the inside sidewall of my tires.

Any input you can offer would be appreciated. Even a pic of the sidewall clearance with your .350 hubs would go a long way. It's pretty easy to deduce from there where a .125" narrower hub will put me.

Thank you.

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
Keep in mind, the tie rod is sitting on a 5mm aluminum spacer which is required to minimize bump steer. These pics show the OMF wheel/.350 SLW hubs with the smaller 4.19 tires which are quite a bit narrower than a regular 1.9 tires. I doubt a .225 hub would work without rubbing the tires on my rig.

Here's some pics for you.....

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/39407738625/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_089"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4609/39407738625_4ce71b1558_o.jpg" width="1200" height="894" alt="TH_089"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/25434119507/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_088"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4703/25434119507_6360ff6919_o.jpg" width="1200" height="1136" alt="TH_088"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/39407738795/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_087"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4605/39407738795_37bbb5ef61_o.jpg" width="1200" height="686" alt="TH_087"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Killer build. Your pretty handy with the camera too. Mind if I pester you a bit?

Any issues with the extra bolt on the vanquish knuckles loosening?

What is it about your steering setup that necessitates the use of spacers under the outer tie rod?

How do you feel the diff putty compares to 1 million weight oil? Wondering if the putty gets ground down with use?
 
bilinvic said:
Keep in mind, the tie rod is sitting on a 5mm aluminum spacer which is required to minimize bump steer. These pics show the OMF wheel/.350 SLW hubs with the smaller 4.19 tires which are quite a bit narrower than a regular 1.9 tires. I doubt a .225 hub would work without rubbing the tires on my rig.

Here's some pics for you.....

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/39407738625/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_089"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4609/39407738625_4ce71b1558_o.jpg" width="1200" height="894" alt="TH_089"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/25434119507/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_088"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4703/25434119507_6360ff6919_o.jpg" width="1200" height="1136" alt="TH_088"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/39407738795/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_087"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4605/39407738795_37bbb5ef61_o.jpg" width="1200" height="686" alt="TH_087"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Click to expand...
Awesome, thank you sir!

I've got plenty of room to spare. I could probably get away with a .185 hub even. But, I've used a little different combo of rod ends/pivot balls/ball studs to gain me some room in anticipation of the decreased track width. And I only needed 2mm spacers to reduce bumpsteer, which comes from the fact that the Vanquish knuckles' steering arms are about 2mm lower than the stock knuckles.

I'll get a thread started soon with some details. Waiting on parts at the moment.

And, I'm stoked to see one of my trans adapters made it's way into your car. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
Thanxs meatmonkey.... No issues with that bolt that holds the steering arm, I used a little bit of blue threadlock. I'm using the Scortched Parts steering kit from Shapeways with an elevated (spacers) GCM from Shock upright/battery plate kit, and with this combo, the 5mm spacers eliminate the bump steer; when the suspension is in full droop and full extension, both front wheels point dead straight. IFS is very finicky when it comes to suspension geometry.

I never used 1 million (in a Dr. Evil voice) weight diff oil, so I can't compare, but I do know that this diff putty is still awesome and is just as effective as the day I put it in. Knock on wood, my TH has not broken down once and usually the front axles would be the most likely point of failure.

Hope this helps.
 
I look forward to following your TH thread 89redranger. The SCX10 trans adapter is a great product and I have no regrets purchasing it...thank you for designing it. My TH is still one of my favourite rigs and I look forward to every opportunity to get it out on the rocks.
 
bilinvic said:
Sorry Richterat83, I don't recall what piston is in the front shocks. I didn't measure the internal spacer I used, but if I were to guess it's around 4mm.
Click to expand...
First run and forgot the internal limiter and dog bone popped out first throttle lol. Shame because I love how much down travel it has currently


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
I mounted up the RC4WD Baja Designs Squadron Pro LED Lights today. They tuck up nice and tight and should be out of harms way out on the rocks. These LEDs have been sitting in my parts drawers for so long and I finally found a place to use them.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/40303491012/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_093"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4674/40303491012_c84a26e059_o.jpg" width="1200" height="677" alt="TH_093"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/39637526104/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_090"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4708/39637526104_a93119523b_o.jpg" width="1200" height="662" alt="TH_090"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/40303491302/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_091"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4659/40303491302_ebc40d38ee_o.jpg" width="1200" height="733" alt="TH_091"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/39451481035/in/album-72157686880068126/" title="TH_092"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4741/39451481035_6c528a67dc_o.jpg" width="1200" height="758" alt="TH_092"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Question going back to your driveshaft. Axial uses a through pin, vaterra uses two clamping set screws. How did you use the wraith MIP on the vaterra transmission output, and pinion input?

Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
 
I can't recall if the through pin hole on the MIP shafts are threaded on both sides, I'm pretty sure there were two grubs screws used just like the Vaterra parts. I bought this TH second hand.

What are you curious about Brake Weight?
 
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