• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

bilinvic's Twin Hammers

The Racer's Edge putty is very stiff at first, but loosens up as it gets used...in fact too loose for crawling. I ended up using Blu-Tac (Elmer's E1531 Poster Tack Reusable Adhesive) an so far I'm pretty happy with the results. The RE putty is very sticky and gooey when trying to remove it as well. Hope this helps.
 
Thank you, I never would have thought of using sticky tack, the stuff I used to get in trouble for stealing from the teachers in fourth grade, to stiffen up a Diff. does the sticky tack last longer than the putty? I think, for now, I'll stick to the diff fluid, but I may play with the sticky tack idea, or like substance in the future. Nice build the way, Your Hammers looks sweet on the rocks! Can't wait to dust mine off for some abuse!
 
So far yes, the tack is lasting longer. I've tried 1 million diff fluid and it was still too "slippy" for my liking!
 
bilinvic said:
The Racer's Edge putty is very stiff at first, but loosens up as it gets used...in fact too loose for crawling. I ended up using Blu-Tac (Elmer's E1531 Poster Tack Reusable Adhesive) an so far I'm pretty happy with the results. The RE putty is very sticky and gooey when trying to remove it as well. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

I'm running Silly Putty in the front of my Clone Hammers. I don't have a ton of packs through it, but so far it's held firm and not slipped at all.

I'm very happy with how my truck crawls with the Silly Putty.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uN1_PS57pc8" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Mack's Pillow Soft Silicone Putty Earplugs are also good for packing the front diff. Available at any drugstore. I have been using it for several years now.
 
Last edited:
bilinvic said:
The Racer's Edge putty is very stiff at first, but loosens up as it gets used...in fact too loose for crawling. I ended up using Blu-Tac (Elmer's E1531 Poster Tack Reusable Adhesive) an so far I'm pretty happy with the results. The RE putty is very sticky and gooey when trying to remove it as well. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
I had the same issue, but chocked it up to residual grease in the diff breaking down the putty. I did a very thorough cleaning with brake and parts cleaner, and let it dry 24 hrs. It seems to be holding out better this time.

Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
 
Hey Bill, I really love your build and have been attempting to copy it as I live in Vancouver so I drive on similar terrain. I was wondering what model/length of big bore shock you use on the front end and how you mount them on the shock tower as they don't seem to have the cap mod done to them in any of your pics.

I was also wondering if you are using the 3.5" shocks which equals 89mm and if that extra length is why you are running 3mm spacers under the front plate/tower mod piece?

Lastly, are you running any internal or external travel spacers and what lengths are they?
 
bilinvic said:
Santa was good to my Twin Hammers this year!

Stout RC Solutions Twin Hammers to Axial transmission adapter;
Axial SCX10 transmission set;
Incision SCX10 Tranmssion Gear set;
Hot Racing 80mm Limiti Straps; and
Vaterra TH Body/Interior set.

The stock Vaterra trans is too noisy for my liking and because I run brushless sensored electronics, I really don't need the 2-speed option. I got rid of that extra bulk and went with the SCX10 trans with 32p gears (the 48p Vaterra pinion and spur were sure to die one day!) The Stout RC Solutions 3D printed adapter is perfect, no issues whatsoever. A custom length front driveshaft is required and I used a modified Traxxas TRX4 front driveshaft; both splined female ends were cut shorter and the double male splined middle section was also cut shorter. I had to grind (Dremel) the metal step off on the forward driveshaft output drive in order to get the grub screws aligned with the flat sections on the front differential pinion output.

I went 12t / 56t for the pinion and spur combined with the CC 1410 Sensored 3800kV motor.

I still have to get the interior painted.
Click to expand...

I know I'm replying to a really old thread. But if Bill is still around, when you put the SCX10 transmission in, it sounds like the rear driveshaft didn't change? I know the front one will for sure.
 
Kemora said:
I know I'm replying to a really old thread. But if Bill is still around, when you put the SCX10 transmission in, it sounds like the rear driveshaft didn't change? I know the front one will for sure.
Click to expand...

I haven't seen Bill on here in quite a while. It's been years since I played around with this rig, but here you can see there is an extension on the rear transmission ouput

smog-71996-albums4083-68735.jpg


smog-71996-albums4083-68736.jpg
 
That's the way I designed mine, had to mirror the trans, but I can run a stock rear driveshaft and cut down Wildboar in the front...

4660f617cf4ca5dc8ab32a782f980e2c.jpg


92ee84cba8dc9d15a726018e20468beb.jpg


96dbf767f5cfa651f0ffccb2add7d2e3.jpg


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
test pic
Replies
3
Views
3K
thegodofclod
T
B
Just some sweet photos from this weekends adventures.
Replies
3
Views
987
Benp
B
B
4.7 vs 4.2 what do you think looks better on my rig?
Replies
3
Views
1K
Blaze0303
B
B
Weekend shenanigans!
Replies
8
Views
1K
Blaze0303
B
B
Added the mytrickrc light kit.
Replies
2
Views
1K
Blaze0303
B
Back
Top