bilinvic's Twin Hammers

bilinvic · Aug 24, 2017

Thank you.

Yes, I know exactly what you are describing and this was a bit of a concern for me when I first mounted the sway bar links there....but after having the rig out on the rocks, the performance is so good that I will not even think about trying to move the link mounts anywhere else.

Dbx · Aug 24, 2017

You can use a couple of o'rings each side of the swingarm mount at the rear. This limits the amount the swingarm can twist and really improves body roll.

bilinvic · Aug 25, 2017

Thanxs Dbx...your tip works great. I use modified rubber grommets for my solid axle steering links to keep the tie-rod from moving excessively....I don't know why I didn't think of using the same idea on the trailing arms myself!

bilinvic · Aug 26, 2017

Here’s the build specs:

Twin Hammers (based off of the kit version)

Unless otherwise noted, stock TH parts are used.

GCM Front Tower Plate
GCM Rear Axle Truss
Blue Monkey RC Trailing Arms; Yeti length with TRX Revo Links Ends
Vanquish Titanium Upper Rear Links; Wraith length with TRX Revo & Jato Length Link Ends
MIP Rear Driveshaft; Yeti Length
Hot Racing Front Hinge Pin Brace
VTH Rear Sway Bar; Firm
Traxxas 85mm Big Bore Front Shocks (10wt)(Internal & External Limiters Added)
Stock Rear Shocks w/ Traxxas X-Rings (30wt)(External Limiters Added)
Modified Rear Chassis
Axial 7x55mm Aluminum Posts; 2ea for Chassis Structure

Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro
Castle Creations 1406 3800kV Sensored Motor
Castle Creations 10a BEC
Xpert WR-7701-HV Servo
Spektrum SR310 Rx

Front Diff is Semi-Locked; Racers Edge Diff Locking Putty
Rear Diff is Locked
Gearing 78t Spur, 20t Pinion
Transmission is Locked in Low Gear

Lucas Red “n” Tacky #2 Grease
Team KnK SS Hardware

durok · Aug 26, 2017

Thanks, bilinvic - Very useful summation for a kick-ass build! Nice to hear about an inexpensive starter rig that responds so well to upgrades.

bilinvic · Aug 26, 2017

I know eh? I can't believe I didn't add this rig to my collection years ago!

mr dave · Aug 27, 2017

bilinvic said:
Scorched parts reached out to me and wants me to test and provide feedback for their bell crank kit made specifically for the GCM top plate....I look forward to trying these parts out. "thumbsup"

This is a really good thread for Twin Hammers owners. I'm glad scorched parts is doing something for GCM plate owners. I have considered using the Traxxas slash bell cranks but this seems like overkill and it doesn't really fit the model. They also offer a really nice radiator and frame support. Its a bit pricey at 27.50 for the combo, so I'm waiting a bit before I pull the trigger.

Fookison · Aug 29, 2017

Thanks for this thread Bill. It inspired me to get my hands on a slightly used TH kit version with upgrades. Looking forward to joining the club when it arrives to its new home. Pics to follow!

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Slodsm · Sep 1, 2017

Gotta say bill, never been into crawling anything, been racing 1/8 scale buggies since the early 2000’s and that’s all I’ve ever really been interested in. Looking around at crawlers over the last couple of months for something to play with at work (we have epic landscape for crawling) and this thread caught my eye. I favorited it and I’ve been back and read through and looked at pictures more times than I can count and I think I’m about to order the kit and the mods you have and build it next time I’m at work.

Great truck man.

bilinvic · Sep 1, 2017

Thanxs Slodsm.....I'm positive you won't be disappointed. And what's even better if you want more speed with the same motor I'm using, get the 2 speed functioning and your TH will be "flying". It's a great rig and I've even inspired some of my local buddies too, they are getting Twin Hammers as well!

xv-townboy · Oct 21, 2017

Well that's it i'm sold..Been trying to decide on what I want to build next and was back and forth between a wraith or bomber kit but this looks like a fun little truck..Is there any chance we get part numbers for the upgrades you have listed?..I just hit the buy button for kit version from great Hobbies"thumbsup"..Thanks for your time

rs10man · Oct 21, 2017

Awesome th build, I don’t need one but I’d love one

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bilinvic · Oct 22, 2017

Finally took the Twin Hammers out for a crawl today with the new Scorched Parts Bell Crank Steering kit. I also swapped out the Traxxas Big Bore front shock springs for TRX4 green stripe springs; they are a slightly softer spring rate which is exactly what I wanted. For tires, I used my vented KLRs (silver).

The rain stopped just as we headed out so the terrain and rocks were very wet. Once again, the TH's performance was outstanding, even in the wet. I could see the softer front springs were lessening the front wheels from "high fiving", not too stiff, not too soft!!! :shock:

The Scorched Parts steering kit did exactly what it was designed to without any problems. The steering is precise and offers a pretty good throw in both directions. IFS steering is never as good as a solid axle rig, but the TH steering is definitely better than my B2B Bomber with all Vanquish steering parts.

If I haven't mentioned it before...I LOVE this rig...it's just so much freaking fun to crawl and bounce. "thumbsup" (Yes, I know, I have said it before) :flipoff:

bilinvic · Oct 23, 2017

I finally figured out the geometry to eliminating the bump steer on my Twin Hammers. I elevated the tie rod on the knuckle side using a 5mm aluminum spacer. At full flex, the tires are still 100% straight. It appears that the key is keeping the tie rod and camber turnbuckle parallel to each other as much as possible. Glad this mystery was finally solved!!!

Although it probably doesn't affect crawling and bouncing, it was just one of those things that bothered me....part of the OCD thing ya know!!!!:lmao:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/37891043971/in/dateposted-public/" title="TH_062"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/37891043971_8085fe3f54_o.jpg" width="1200" height="895" alt="TH_062"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/37171220533/in/dateposted-public/" title="TH_061"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/37171220533_a192a1da74_o.jpg" width="1200" height="695" alt="TH_061"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Bmxreeves · Oct 24, 2017

bilinvic said:
I finally figured out the geometry to eliminating the bump steer on my Twin Hammers. I elevated the tie rod on the knuckle side using a 5mm aluminum spacer. At full flex, the tires are still 100% straight. It appears that the key is keeping the tie rod and camber turnbuckle parallel to each other as much as possible. Glad this mystery was finally solved!!!

Although it probably doesn't affect crawling and bouncing, it was just one of those things that bothered me....part of the OCD thing ya know!!!!:lmao:

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/37891043971/in/dateposted-public/" title="TH_062"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/37891043971_8085fe3f54_o.jpg" width="1200" height="895" alt="TH_062"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156142005@N05/37171220533/in/dateposted-public/" title="TH_061"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/37171220533_a192a1da74_o.jpg" width="1200" height="695" alt="TH_061"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

You also want to keep the tire rod as parallel as possible to the arm when looking at it from the top. just a tip

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Dbx · Oct 24, 2017

Bil has his GCM plate up on towers (helps get more travel out of the GCM setup) and this is why the spacers on the tie rods are also needed. Standard GCM plates with Scorched Parts bell cranks don’t have the bump steer issue.
I am thinking about a GCM plate lift kit to go with the Bell Crank kit - it could win back 6 or 7mm of wheel travel!

Lanky · Oct 27, 2017

Bill thanks again buddy! you've inspired me to pickup a TH to build for my 1.9 2s U4 series.... Now I'm hooked... We have a 1.9 2s class we are trying to get more interest in. Since I've built/ raced mine, my LHS has sold 7TH's!

Im running mine 2s with a MMP/ 1406 5700KV locked in low, Jec WL Ta's, With a Chopped up Clod body(I didn't really dig the looks of the Hammers I picked up), locked front and rear... it has truly Jaw dropping performance"thumbsup" appreciate the guidance!

bilinvic · Oct 27, 2017

That's great Lanky....you should try the Racer's Edge Diff putty in the front diff, especially if you are racing. Do you have a build thread?

Lanky · Oct 28, 2017

Nah no build thread.... mine is nothing like yours, in fact My son KJ calls the “truck” TJ.... I asked him why today, he said “trail junk daddy!”...

I completely agree, I’d never have locked the front diff. Just so happens when I purchased it, the previous owner already did. After running it HARD, it hasn’t given an issue, and it kills it around the track. Not darty as I assumed it would have been. It is much more capable then my B1B crawling. In fact it has been pulling some pretty serious lines with just minor throttle bumps. Too much fun to drive.

Don't laugh! but here is a pic of my beauty...

BumpyRoad · Oct 29, 2017

Hi Bill,
I might have missed it, but where do you install the battery in your TH?
Is it on top of the GCM plate? And did you cut the body to allow for the hood to open to insert/replace the battery (like shown on the GCM site)? Or do you have to unscrew the 6 body screws to access the battery.
Thanks and great build, as usual!
BumpyRoad

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