cmbscx10
I wanna be Dave
I was not confident enough in my skills and could not get interest to build me a custom frame without having to sell my kidneys so this build http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/large-scale-rigs/544871-1-6-maybe-1-8-u4-koh-rock-buggy-crawler.html is on the back shelf unless i win the lottery.
I was trying to sell my Yeti XL to fund the above project but ZERO interest in that sale lead me in another direction to resurrect the above thread in a way. There was absolutely nothing wrong with the Yeti XL but after building my F350 i fell for crawling again but didn't want to go back to a 2.2 rig. I am bit by the Big Scale bug and truly infected.
So, why not take my Yeti XL aka Yeti XL #1 and make it a Wraith XL with solid axles F/R. I am sure it has been done but this will be my version and i am going to make it as simple as possible without months and months of custom work that i don't have the skills to do.
Step 1
Draw it out to see if it can be done. Looks like it may be possible. (see below)
Step 2
Are there parts to make it happen?
1. Up until a month ago, No. Helio RC is now making a front end conversion kit to use the Yeti XL Solid Rear axle for steering. Thread here http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-yeti-xl/523453-yeti-xl-solid-front-axle-helios-rc.html. Toughted for custom builds and i think this fits the bill.
2. I was able to acquire a super cheap Yeti XL Kit Roller aka Yeti XL #2 to use the Axle, Front Steering, Shock, tub, cage etc.
3. The stock wheels on the Yeti XL are made out of warm licorice and no way would they survive on the rocks under power. No true bead locks are available for 3.8 tires so i picked up a set of Pro-Line discontinued Weld Racing Bead locks that i will narrow to fit any 3.8/40 series wheel. They just happen to be in my favorite color. Wheels will be died Gray. Proline 40 Series MOAB Tires on Commando Weld Racing Beadlock Wheels Savage Maxx | eBay
Step 3
1. Once Yeti XL #2 gets here i will measure 3x and cut 3x the front off of Yeti XL #1 and Yeti XL #2. I will then take the back of Yeti XL #2 and merge it to Yeti XL #1 with a 5-6mm Aluminum plate.
2. Yeti XL #1 motor and trans placement will not be changed and the chassis merge happens 1.5" in front of the Trans. Yeti XL #2 will not have a motor or trans so that will be the area for the ESC and anything else.
3. I may need to extend the Front Drive shaft by 1" but i'll blow that bridge up once i have both chassis in hand.
This is what i envision it to look like. ** Don't laugh at my awesome MS Paint skills
I was trying to sell my Yeti XL to fund the above project but ZERO interest in that sale lead me in another direction to resurrect the above thread in a way. There was absolutely nothing wrong with the Yeti XL but after building my F350 i fell for crawling again but didn't want to go back to a 2.2 rig. I am bit by the Big Scale bug and truly infected.
So, why not take my Yeti XL aka Yeti XL #1 and make it a Wraith XL with solid axles F/R. I am sure it has been done but this will be my version and i am going to make it as simple as possible without months and months of custom work that i don't have the skills to do.
Step 1
Draw it out to see if it can be done. Looks like it may be possible. (see below)
Step 2
Are there parts to make it happen?
1. Up until a month ago, No. Helio RC is now making a front end conversion kit to use the Yeti XL Solid Rear axle for steering. Thread here http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-yeti-xl/523453-yeti-xl-solid-front-axle-helios-rc.html. Toughted for custom builds and i think this fits the bill.
2. I was able to acquire a super cheap Yeti XL Kit Roller aka Yeti XL #2 to use the Axle, Front Steering, Shock, tub, cage etc.
3. The stock wheels on the Yeti XL are made out of warm licorice and no way would they survive on the rocks under power. No true bead locks are available for 3.8 tires so i picked up a set of Pro-Line discontinued Weld Racing Bead locks that i will narrow to fit any 3.8/40 series wheel. They just happen to be in my favorite color. Wheels will be died Gray. Proline 40 Series MOAB Tires on Commando Weld Racing Beadlock Wheels Savage Maxx | eBay
Step 3
1. Once Yeti XL #2 gets here i will measure 3x and cut 3x the front off of Yeti XL #1 and Yeti XL #2. I will then take the back of Yeti XL #2 and merge it to Yeti XL #1 with a 5-6mm Aluminum plate.
2. Yeti XL #1 motor and trans placement will not be changed and the chassis merge happens 1.5" in front of the Trans. Yeti XL #2 will not have a motor or trans so that will be the area for the ESC and anything else.
3. I may need to extend the Front Drive shaft by 1" but i'll blow that bridge up once i have both chassis in hand.
This is what i envision it to look like. ** Don't laugh at my awesome MS Paint skills


