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ax10/wraith crawlin on a budget "sportsman" build

Re: Punched Cookie Monster "budget" build

All you need is the gears for the inside of the case you and a/an output. Let me check my pile of parts I'm pretty sure I've got that covered. If you will find an exploded view of Axial transmission it all very simple.
I've gathered the gears, bearings, inner "shafts"?, and a tie rod..

If you have the output shafts.. Would be saaweeet!
 
should i just change the name of this to "RCC community build" haha. Right now im out of money for rc stuff so if you can hang onto them for a bit ill take them off your hands.
 
Re: Punched Cookie Monster "budget" build

Hey Man U want find people like these comp guys they will help u in any way straight up good people !!!!


Sent from the SWAMP
 
got a nice bag full of goodies from troy today. Havent been able to go through it all but it looks like ill be getting even closer to having a completed build!
 
i have some updates and some pictures :) and even a little bit of "fabrication".

I attempted to put together an ax trans from the parts robbob sent me awhile ago and stuff troy gave me a few days ago. I found out i am atleast 1 output shaft away from a working AX trans. I decided to just put the case together with the spurt shaft and see how it would fit. I placed it in (what i assume is) the correct way with the spur shaft facing the front and the threaded part was laying over the brace like so.

correct%20transmission_zpstdm4jebq.jpg


So flipped it around the other way with the shaft pointing to the rear and just sat it where it would be if i flipped the skid around

backwards%20transmission_zpskvfege46.jpg


at this point i was thinking maybe my skid was backwards and looked up some build threads, i looked at tapped-out and saw his spur was to the front but was using a wraith transmission. This brings me to my first question, is the answer here to get a wraith shaft (will it fit in the AX case?) or shim up the transmission for clearance? I plan on getting a 1 peice output just for future proofing, will i need extended outputs since the rear wraith output is longer?


now to stuff that makes me feel happy/proud.

When troy dropped off my goody bag it had a metal tie rod, awesome! All i needed was a drag link to go with my bitchen servo

steering_zpsls27d2ut.jpg


At first i thought i was just going to have to wait, but then i remembered what looked like delrin tube in with the trans parts and i have tons of rod ends laying around now so my brain started moving. I know making a tie rod isnt a big deal to pretty much anybody but its the first thing i have installed that wasnt just out of the package and ready to go. I mest with a couple different rod ends and ended up using the wraith link ends and cut a small peice of plastic to make a spacer to seperate the tie rod and drag link.

drag%20link_zpsczvcpenz.jpg



i know its not a big deal to most but it made me feel good and i hope i can eventually get more resources/ideas to do more things.

thanks for sticking with me with this, i know i ask alot of dumb questions but usually i am close to the right answer from looking around and just want to be certain i am correct.
 
Re: Punched Cookie Monster "budget" build

I think of you take the tranny apart and put the output shaft (for the spur) out the other side, you would have it.
With the skid the way it is.

Glad everything is working out Dan!
 
The AX10 tranny is the way to go with these smaller skids. Tapped-out only used a Wraith tranny 'cause it was off his U4.

There are two lengths of top shafts...one for slipper and the other for no slipper, although I think your long one will be fine. Seems to be enough room there for the spur. This is how close mine is and this is with the short shaft (no slipper)...

DSCN3921B_zpssorqxjt4.jpg
 
Ideally, you want the motor on the right side to help with torque twist, so you may have to turn the skid around again leaving the tranny attached. See if the top shaft will still clear the cross brace. That's if you want to run slipper. If not the shorter top shaft is Axial part #AX30197
 
Re: Punched Cookie Monster "budget" build

I'll drop the output in the mail in the next day or so. Don't worry about the shipping. I got to dig and see if I still have your address.
 
You need the short shaft as the slipper shaft is to long for this chassis and will hit the cross brace, you don't need a slipper for crawling anyway. The motor goes on the side that has the side brace spaced out for it."thumbsup"
 
Ideally, you want the motor on the right side to help with torque twist, so you may have to turn the skid around again leaving the tranny attached. See if the top shaft will still clear the cross brace. That's if you want to run slipper. If not the shorter top shaft is Axial part #AX30197

thank you very much! Your picture actually cleared up any questions i had! The part number is very helpful also :)

I'll drop the output in the mail in the next day or so. Don't worry about the shipping. I got to dig and see if I still have your address.

thank you but hang onto it for your own build, i plan on getting a 1 piece output when funds allow plus i think im buying a metal gear set from you anyway :p

You need the short shaft as the slipper shaft is to long for this chassis and will hit the cross brace, you don't need a slipper for crawling anyway. The motor goes on the side that has the side brace spaced out for it."thumbsup"

yep, got that figured out now between looking at tapped outs build and the post from solitaire its all good. Thanks again "thumbsup"
 
Solitaile is right I used the Wraith transmission because it's what I had @ the time, it won't be staying in the rig.
On my Wraith transmission I swapped out the top shaft to a old style ax10 shaft to remove the slipper clutch.
 
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The problem with your steering is that you are using such a long servo horn. To try and keep your linkage parallel. You should try switching to a shorter servo horn (which will clear the upper link end) and run the drag link to the back side of the knuckle with bent drag link and additional steering arm on the back side of the knuckle.
 
putting the drag link on the back is a simple answer i didnt think of some how.

thank you for the suggestion, im going to mess with that a bit
 
i just had a good look at it and it looks like if i put the drag link on the bottom of the horn (like somebody suggested) it will clear
 
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