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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

This thread has just about covered everything. Read every post.

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Will do. I just thought maybe there was a sticky somewhere that had an actual list compiled rather than reading through 48 pages of chit chat. I guess ill have to create my own. Thanks.
 
Fweew, just finished all 48 pages. Took me several days. I am the new owner of an Exceed Maxstone10, the Redcat Everests older sister. I really appreciate all other hard won information included in this thread. I can only aspire to make my truck as nice looking and reliable as some of the trucks I see in this thread. I am going to run it as a crawler for a while and slowly collect all the parts I need to turn it into a scale trail truck. I own a 1:1 96 F250 extended cab long bed. I plan to change the body to an 86 style and would like to build my scaler in that same body style.
 
Back to RC after a 15 year hiatus.
I just picked up a E-10 and I am looking at getting more batteries but would like to run 3S if I can. Can anyone confirm the stock ESC is capable of tuning 3S? The instruction sheet states it is good up to 3S with a 2A/9V (linear mode BEC). Just checking for real world experience.
 
Back to RC after a 15 year hiatus.
I just picked up a E-10 and I am looking at getting more batteries but would like to run 3S if I can. Can anyone confirm the stock ESC is capable of tuning 3S? The instruction sheet states it is good up to 3S with a 2A/9V (linear mode BEC). Just checking for real world experience.
Consider it confirmed. My son's e10 has only been ran on 3s since he got it in October 2017. Upgraded to a GoolRC 35T motor last month, and it's awesome!

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Mirrored the trans and installed a GoolRC 37T yesterday. What a difrence! Also bent a shock last week. So I picked up a set of King shocks. Will be modifying the frame to install them a bit more straight up and down.
The_Law_Man01 what mah 3S is your son running and what run times is he getting? Looking at 1500mah. To put on the front links. But I'm afraid it is going to be to small for extended runtimes.
 
He has a 4500mah and a 4300mah. No problem.

Rather than flip the Trans, I switched the axles and reversed the motor. When you do this, the battery tray is in the rear. Cut it off flush from the electronics tray. This will leave enough room to mount the receiver and ESC behind the spur gear. Cut the current ESC tray off flush or leave a little but there if you like. Attach the cut off battery tray in front if the spur with a couple zip ties. Then loosely to the upper links with a zip tie. It lowers the CG. Longer batteries stay up just off the spur. Hopefully you can see it in the picture. Can't find the actual mod pics.
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Mirrored the trans and installed a GoolRC 37T yesterday. What a difrence! Also bent a shock last week. So I picked up a set of King shocks. Will be modifying the frame to install them a bit more straight up and down.
The_Law_Man01 what mah 3S is your son running and what run times is he getting? Looking at 1500mah. To put on the front links. But I'm afraid it is going to be to small for extended runtimes.

I'm using a 1000mah 3S battery. It actually lasts pretty long for crawling (I'd guess maybe 45 minutes, but I haven't timed it). I usually bring a backup and change it out for more extended sessions.
 
Mirrored the trans and installed a GoolRC 37T yesterday. What a difrence! Also bent a shock last week. So I picked up a set of King shocks. Will be modifying the frame to install them a bit more straight up and down.
The_Law_Man01 what mah 3S is your son running and what run times is he getting? Looking at 1500mah. To put on the front links. But I'm afraid it is going to be to small for extended runtimes.
Sorry. Forgot to answer the rest of the question. On the 4500 mah batteries we get an estimated 2-3 hours of crawl time. It depends on what we're doing. Also, we just switched to a GoolRC motor last month so the time will decrease a bit. We haven't been to an all day crawling event since switching so he hasn't ran a battery to LVC with the 35T motor.

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Hey everyone. First , thanks to everyone for the wealth of info on this crawler!
We have indeed broken a few parts, and have had our Everest 10 for just over 3 weeks.
So far, we have had to or decided to do the following. 1) stock servo wiring ground up in spur gear. Replaced with Traxxas 2075, and all metal gears swapped over from stock servo. Direct fit. Replaced stock servo horn with axial aluminum. I like the set screw. Replaced bottom transfer case / motor mounting plate with aluminum red cat plate. Added redcat 550 motor with some retrofitting. Then blew up the ESC, or so we thought. Replaced with Axial AE-5. Still no control so we replaced transmitter / receiver with Traxxas open 2.4 with Bluetooth, etc. very nice . Messed around for a bit, and found that the stock spur gear was wearing heavily, so we reset spacing, and still wearing. Just ordered Axial Steel 87 spur/25 pinion. It's a little tough to get super technical on crawling but there is a 50/50 setting on the transmitter that makes reverse less twitchy. The steering is a little limiting and I'd like to grind off the bump stops. Then.. for fun we got the Traxxas muddy monster body.
Had to trim up the rear quarter panel/ wheel well a bit. This is now a cross between a crawler and ???? Super quick, no top end , (11-12) mph, and can still crawl. My 8 yr old and I both love it!!!!
 
New member, new to the RC hobby. Me and my 2 sons (10-11) just got E10's for each. Haven't read all this thread yet but will. Been looking at what bodies will fit for a more scale look (without going full scale). I've seen pics of the 1/8 Proline Rubicon body that seems to work really well. Anyone run one of the other 1/8 Proline bodies, like the Silverado or F250?
 
New member, new to the RC hobby. Me and my 2 sons (10-11) just got E10's for each. Haven't read all this thread yet but will. Been looking at what bodies will fit for a more scale look (without going full scale). I've seen pics of the 1/8 Proline Rubicon body that seems to work really well. Anyone run one of the other 1/8 Proline bodies, like the Silverado or F250?
If the body shows about a 13"-13.5" wheelbase, you should be OK.

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Thanks man!

We're having a blast with these things. The boys are more "basher" driving style (kids lol) but the trucks are holding up great, so far. They drug out old toy bodies today and had me mount them. We rock crawled the batteries worth today.

I can't stop tinkering with mine. Cut the springs down to give droop, added dirt bike fuel line to the shock shafts to act as bump stops and keep the tires out of the body. Sipped the stock tires, added 2oz stick on wheel weights to each wheel, removed the foams, shaved bump stops and set trim, painted the underside of the body satin black and bedliner in the bed.
The work on getting grip has definitely made a difference. Siping the tires helped a lot. I can't imagine what a GOOD set of tires would be like.

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With 3 of these things, I've been a full time RC mechanic since Thursday. Ordered spare screws, nuts and body pins tonight. Went ahead and tossed the Axial iron crosses in the cart as well, but I will only put them in if the stock ones fail. Going to start researching longer lasting batteries and/or faster acting charger soon.
 
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Truck did good with foams removed but as expected and others have found, tires would roll over too much on side slopes. I cut the stock foams in a star pattern as most do but thought they stiffened the tire up a little too much, so I cut the stars off. The result is like a foam run flat insert I guess. No resistance til about half way flat, but the foam seems to keep the sidewalls supported and help against them rolling over. Worked real good.

Ordered a Hexfly HX-N802 2A Battery Charger so we can charge the stock 2000mah batteries in around an hour hopefully. Also ordered an Axial SCX10 lift kit / droop kit. Hoping it will allow the shocks to be mounted more upright. My youngest boys basher driving style and shaved steering stops has caught up with him and broke a knuckle mount. I knew it would at some point though.

What's the best all around tire for this truck, for mostly rock, but with dirt / trail riding not compromised? We don't run them in mud. TSL's, Boggers?
 
Truck did good with foams removed but as expected and others have found, tires would roll over too much on side slopes. I cut the stock foams in a star pattern as most do but thought they stiffened the tire up a little too much, so I cut the stars off. The result is like a foam run flat insert I guess. No resistance til about half way flat, but the foam seems to keep the sidewalls supported and help against them rolling over. Worked real good.

Ordered a Hexfly HX-N802 2A Battery Charger so we can charge the stock 2000mah batteries in around an hour hopefully. Also ordered an Axial SCX10 lift kit / droop kit. Hoping it will allow the shocks to be mounted more upright. My youngest boys basher driving style and shaved steering stops has caught up with him and broke a knuckle mount. I knew it would at some point though.

What's the best all around tire for this truck, for mostly rock, but with dirt / trail riding not compromised? We don't run them in mud. TSL's, Boggers?

With the large pumpkin on the E10, I think it benefits quite a bit from a large diameter tire.

I have Pitbull Rockbeast IIs (Komp Kompound) on mine. They are 5.75" in diameter. They have a nice soft, sticky compound does pretty well on rocks and for general use. The downside is they don't come with foams so you need to factor that into your cost.

I put Proline Super Swamper XLs on my son's rig recently. They are 5.8" tall. One nice thing about these is they come with foams. They also fit ok on the stock wheels if you want to reuse the wheels. The tire compound doesn't seem as soft/sticky as the compound on the pitbulls, but they seem to perform pretty well from what I've observed in limited use.

Another option that is a little cheaper is the Duratrax Deep Woods 2.2. It is even taller than the above tires (5.9"), but a little bit narrower. I'm not sure how well they would fit on the stock rims (which are very wide). They do come with foams. They also have a wheel/tire combo option, but the wheels they come with require a thin walled 7mm socket to install them. I haven't personally used them, so I can't comment on the performance.

Jconcepts Scorpios are even larger (6"), but I don't know how they are as a crawling tire.
 
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Thanks man. I agree about the big pumpkin, especially the protrusion under the pinion. It gets snagged on rocks a lot. I've wondered if it could be shaved off or at least angled or reduced in some way to help the Alex slide up and over a rock. I'd imagine it's likely hollow on the inside but I've not looked to see yet. If so and you shaved it at an angle it would expose a hole or slot in the housing, but I'd bet you could cut a slice of plastic to cover the hole and JB Weld it in place.

I'll take a look at those tires you mentioned for sure. I'm gonna cut some tread blocks off on the stockers to see how much it helps in addition to the sipes.
 
The posts on the bottom of the axle are for bumpers in other versions, they can easily trimmed smooth with the axle case. Once smoothed off they are more or less the same clearance as an Axial Scx10/Ax10 early axles.
 
Thanks man. I agree about the big pumpkin, especially the protrusion under the pinion. It gets snagged on rocks a lot. I've wondered if it could be shaved off or at least angled or reduced in some way to help the Alex slide up and over a rock. I'd imagine it's likely hollow on the inside but I've not looked to see yet. If so and you shaved it at an angle it would expose a hole or slot in the housing, but I'd bet you could cut a slice of plastic to cover the hole and JB Weld it in place.

I'll take a look at those tires you mentioned for sure. I'm gonna cut some tread blocks off on the stockers to see how much it helps in addition to the sipes.

The protrusion under the pinion is hollow, but can be shaved off. I filled it with JB weld from the inside before shaving it off and haven't had any issues.
 
Shaved the protrusion under the pinion and covered the slot with a section of a plastic zip tie and JB welded over it.

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I put the lift / droop kit brackets and and while torque twist is improved, the suspension doesn't flex nearly as good as it did before. I may end up taking them back off.

Also cut tread blocks off the tires hoping to improve grip on the rocks. It did improve dirt traction, but I think it may have hurt rock traction. I think the tires gripped better before the cutting. Sipping the stock tires made a BIG difference. Looking back, I shoulda stopped there, but now I know, and that's how ya learn. Of course nothing I ain't telling you guys anything you don't already know :mrgreen:
 
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