StomperCrawler
RCC Addict
I'm assuming there's something written on the esc or elsewhere that says "lipo ready"; could you post a picture of where it says that? I'm wondering if they've upgraded to lvd/lvc.
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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler
- Thread starter TakeOffYouHoser
- Start date
StomperCrawler
RCC Addict
Would if I had one.
I looked for it and all I found was just a schematic of the crawler and parts list.
pretty grimm.
lipo ready means (usually) that there is a cutoff for low voltage, if you are not sure
get a low voltage alarm. there are good ones on ebay for a dollar or so.
for a bit more there are cutoffs that stop the motor when the battery is at the cut off point.
or the other choice is to get a better esc that you know has a cutoff and can set it.
call redcat and ask them. they are pretty good at answering questions and helping out.
let us know what you find out
pretty grimm.
lipo ready means (usually) that there is a cutoff for low voltage, if you are not sure
get a low voltage alarm. there are good ones on ebay for a dollar or so.
for a bit more there are cutoffs that stop the motor when the battery is at the cut off point.
or the other choice is to get a better esc that you know has a cutoff and can set it.
call redcat and ask them. they are pretty good at answering questions and helping out.
let us know what you find out
It says lipo 2-3 on it and has a jumper for lipo or NIMH. It says wp1040.
That's not the normal esc for these things. The stock HSP on atleast has no jumpers but has a drag brake programmed. As far as I know the wp1040 does not have a drag brake. However the axial ae5 is a rebadged hobbywing wp1040 with custom firmware to add the drag brake. The upgrade/replacement of the wp1040 is the wp1060 and it does have a drag brake.
StomperCrawler
RCC Addict
I believe the 1040 has multiple settings and the one for fwd/Rev has drag brake. So where did you purchase this upgraded e10?
I bought 2 e10s from rcplanet a week apart. The 2nd one is the one with a different ESC.
StomperCrawler
RCC Addict
Interesting. I wonder if they got a return with a smoked esc and just swapped it out with the 1040 before reselling it.
I have had several Redcats. They do use "dummied down" versions. The E10 does use the 1040 as you mentioned. The AE-5 is a 1060.
I decided to keep using the 1040 "Redcat" version in my scaler build. I will probably swap it out with a 1060 if it burns up on me.
I run 35T's. I would think that a 20T wouldn't have enough torque. But you could reduce it with gearing.
Jeepiac
Rock Crawler
Depends on the gearing, weight, tire size, weight of tire/wheels, (rotating mass) type of motor and the quality of the esc matters a lot. Your common throw away motors are lower torque than the upper end motors (rebuildable). I swapped out a AE5 and a 27T Axial motor in my scaler to a Tekin system with the 35T Tekin motor. Geared up 2 teeth on the pinion and the thing hauls ass. Torque is actually a little to much and still runs over and hour on a 3000 mah 2s Lipo, and this rig is loaded. In other words, it's a lead sled. A lot of people don't seem to pay attention to the amp rating of the ESC, and it is important when it comes to the torque output of the motor. I had the AE5 in one of my other crawlers with a 20T Axial can motor and with some gearing it wasn't to bad. I upgraded to a Holmes Torque Master ESC and it made a night and day difference in the bottom end punch. I buy cheap everything, except when it comes to the electronics. Well, and tires. Gotta have good rubber :mrgreen:
No it doesn't. You are thinking of the wp1060.
Not true. The AE5 is a WP1040 with custom firmware that is switchable between 50 and 100% drag brake via jumpers. The WP1060 has an option that includes drag brake but it's set to 100%.
Unless you want to run only 50% drag brake then buy a wp1060 as it's cheaper, more powerful and still waterproof like the ae5.
windwalker
Newbie
Anyone else have a problem with the axial lockers not fitting all the way down in the the small axial diff case AX80002. Mine sticks up about 1/16 to 1/32 above the lip of the case and when you attach the gear it is not flush with the top of the casing. I ordered everything, ground down the drive shafts to fit in the lockers but looks like it is not going to work. Anyone got any suggestions?
I used a Dremel to go a bit deeper. It just sits flush and does go together good. Remember that the big gear is recessed a bit also.
windwalker
Newbie
did you dremel down the stock case or did you use the axial small cas?
