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A deeper look within the Redcat Everest 10 crawler

I don't plan to run Lipo in mine, at least not as of now. I have some good packs and was thinking about a 27 turn Axial motor. I've also got a few old school Trinity Monster Horsepower motors from the late 80s early 90s which are great motors. We'll see what happens, just wasn't sure what the ESC would hold up to.
 
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So after a little more reading, seems a lot of guys are experiencing servo failure. What kind of luck have you all had? I've been looking at this servo as an upgrade. Worth it or not?

HDKJ D3015 Metal Gear High Torque Wide Angle Digital Waterproof Robot Servo US | eBay

Redcat servos are hit and miss. I've got one that causes esc glitching, one that stutters sometimes and one that's never missed a beat. As with everything, you get what you pay for. I like Savox servos myself. I've had really good luck with their lower end units.
 
So what happened to this thread? It as great, people commenting all the time, lots of great info, now it's dead........ We need to wake this thread up again.
 
I guess the E10 has become old news. Mine has been modified to the point of not being a E10 anymore. Axles and tranny are all that's left and the axles are going to be traded out for Sawback axles very soon.
 
I just got mine in the mail today. For $136 I think its a great deal, got a lot for my money. The turning radius is awful, the torque flex is awful, the body is nice if you're into that kind of thing. I plan to star the foams and add 2oz to the rear wheels and 4oz to the front wheels. Plan for a new body but not sure what yet, possibly the Proline Cherokee body. I took the spacers out of the springs right away, took the stickers off the body right away, I plan to pick up 2 metal gear servos, an OEM servo mount, OEM lower front links, and an OEM servo link to add rear steer. Also going to replace the servo horns with aluminum. Going to run a servo splitter to drive both servos and see how that works out. Ah also going to run a vintage 1985 or 1986 world champion Trinity Monster Horsepower stock class motor in it also. Torque monsters and they will help quite a bit with wheel speed. I've got quite a few of those motors, love em. I have to disagree with old news, the things has barely been on the market a year. Clodbusters have been around since 1985 and still have a huge following.
 
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Its barely been on the market a year under the Redcat name. HSP, Exceed and one other that I cant remember the name of have been selling their versions of it for a while now. Which is good cause it opens up more parts availability. I'm with you on the bang for the buck. The tires and wheels on my Wraith cost more than this entire rig and it never stops impressing me. My daughters E10 has a 35T can motor, aluminum servo horn, Axial lockers, 3/4" shock limiters and weighted wheels and the stupid thing goes like hell and has held up to all kinds of abuse. I left one shock spacer on the left rear shock. It is a little noticeable at times, but the torque flex is super improved. You can also trim the steering stops to gain a little more but don't go to far or it'll kick the dog bone out of the cup and break stuff rather quickly. I found some HSP lockers that are drop in and go. no filing of the axles like you have to with the Iron Crosses. Of course these went into mine :) I think as long as people use it for what it is and don't shove a high dollar brushless system in it on 3s Lipo's it'll go for a long time without issues. Six months on the kids and it's still got the original drive shafts. and this thing has seen some rough trails, plus quite a few miles without a single breakdown.
 
I finally got around to making body mounts and finishing the chassis. I have a new set of wheels and tires on the way too. Now on to the body.
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I am new to crawling and took the $135 gamble on an E10. I think its a great deal. Weak points are well expected at this price. Here are my mods so far:

HSP aluminum lockers
Junfac +13 wheel wideners
Integy 36mmW alloy wheels with weighted fronts
Integy tires
Parma Honcho body

Yes, the wheels are pink anno! I got them on clearance for $53. I will rock pink for that price :mrgreen: The stock RX bound to my FlySky GTB3 TX. I am waiting for some 5mm and 10mm bearing shims for the ring/pinion and axles before I crawl with it.


 
Not sure whats going on. I tried to reply twice with links and it said awaiting moderation. Thanks Jeepiac. Go to the Integy.com site and enter "D3H" in the search.
 
Both look great! I got the AXIAL steel locker installed in the rear diff and the diff is back together. I cant believe the diffs and gear box ship totally dry, not a drop of grease! I packed the diff with grease, I will do the same when I reassemble the front. I plan to disassemble and grease the gear box also. Possibly try and find some kind of pinion/spur guard. Anyway, I wrapped 23" of 3/16 solid lead wire around the inside of the rear wheels and foams removed. 46" of the same lead wrapped around the front wheels and foam removed. Still have to complete the install of the front locker and reassemble the diff.

Can some of you guys post pictures of what you did in terms of cutting the tires? Also, what did you use to cut them with? I have been into this hoppy for about 25-27 years but crawlers are totally new to me. I appreciate all the info posted in this thread and thanks in advance for any future into. I hope this thread comes back to life.
 
OK, all back together. Low battery, newly weighted wheels, the thing torques VERY badly. May be too much weight in the wheels which of course makes the motor work harder and causes more torque flex. I also have no foams and no spring spacers. I'm testing in my house on brand new very soft carpet which is not ideal. I'll test it outside tomorrow on a fresh battery and see what happens. May have to remove half the weight from each wheel and test again. Trial and error, half the fun.
 
some people have some success reducing torque twist by widening the
wheelbase and/or bringing the inner-lower suspension links together.
I am also thinking that mounting the lower part of the shock further outboard
might also help a bit.
there is always stiffer springs at the back.

seems someone else mirrored the transmission or moved it to the other side.
look in this same thread a while back.

unfortunately that is one of the effects of drive shaft driven vehicles.
 
Thanks Carbon. My bearing shims came today so while I had the axles tore down I swapped the lower link and shock around so the shock bottom is now outboard. I then changed the upper shock mount to outside of the chassis. What a huge difference! I can goose it on carpet and it doesn't torque twist with the factory shock preloads on. Without the preloads it does torque a little but nothing like it did before. Platinumzj5.9 you gotta try this! "thumbsup"
 
Post up some pictures! I took mine out today for the first time. Not 10 minutes and I snapped an axle shaft in the front axle, POS lol Stock motor and everything, I guess that's what $135 gets me though. That's ok, more upgrades are on the way.
 
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