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'56 Ford Class 3 Comp Rig - The Closer

It's the rears that have the bent screw issue. After Dana pointed it out I went home and checked mine and sure shit, it was bent.

You just answered your own question on what mount to go with.

Just wished people would post up issues like this.
 
Dlux uses the exact same upper link setup on both axles?
If so, I think you're right. "thumbsup"
 
What type of screw bent in the rear? Was it stainless or black oxide? Make sure its black oxide if youre having issues. I really dont think its a huge issue anyway, even if it were bent. You can simply put a new one in or just leave the bent one it. Wont really hurt anything.....

Not speaking badly about the Dinky truss at all.... but if youre having issues bending upper bolts on my truss, I would assume you would have the same or worse issue on the Dinky stuff since his bolts are only in single sheer.

Stuff breaks, stuff bends. IMHO, putting a new screw in to fix a bent one is just considered maintenance.

To answer your question Eric... No, I have not heard of this as an issue.
 
Stainless and big horsepower. I'm thinking that if the screw didn't bend the plate would break.

No a big deal. I understand we are asking a lot out of these plates. Dana and I are not afraid to have big horsepower in 7lb rigs.
 
My front sporty Dlux mount ran all last season on my 5.5lb wraith. I bent the aluminum standoffs on it that the servo mounts to. They didn't break, just bent. The link bolt didn't bend on that one. On my 8 lb scaler, I've run the dinkylink (in the front only) with 4s brushless and the only problem I've had is the nylock nuts loosening. Never a bent or broken bolt.

On a U4 rig i built last year, I broke a Dlux rear U4 mount plate (original thin CF) after about 4 runs. The link bolt bent badly then the cf plate broke. Personally, I think the Dlux rear U4 link could be made indestructable with thicker CF or G10 and putting both rod ends in double shear with a really long bolt. Double shear is always a better design, just my $0.02
 
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Been a little while since I updated this thread. The truck did really well...almost what I needed it to (but that's probably driver ).

Took second last year in the 2.2 trail class. Highlight was winning the finals course on the last comp.

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I've run a few indoor comps this winter and the rig is just working well so I plan to run it next season too.

There was some frame damage from all the time running. Also I didn't like the shock geometry so I relocated some mounts to get some more angle and raise the rear of the chassis up to help with break over.

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Picked up a new body to give a fresh paint job. Painted the inside of the shell but was able to find some tamiya ps-55 clear flat paint which is very elusive in the us.

Going with a theme for all my comp rigs. Also going to run the smaller proline swampers to start. Get the axle cg lower. I'm not to worried about clearance as I raised the truck with relocating the shocks.

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I dig the new paint job. Love the white with blue flames. What exact color are the flames? Did you spray the flat clear on the outside when you were done?
 
I dig the new paint job. Love the white with blue flames. What exact color are the flames? Did you spray the flat clear on the outside when you were done?


Thanks. Yes I did spray the flat clear on the outside. Just used the overspray film as a mask for the Windows and grill.

The flames are duratrax metallic blue fading into a tamiya copper.

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