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4WheelRC's SCX10 build: 'Project Lighting'.

4

4WheelRC

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
128
Location
England
Hello y'all, thought I'd share my SCX10 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon build with you, especially as it will use a bunch of HeyOKPerformance's winch & light controllers that I found on this forum "thumbsup"

Sadly it has gotten off to a really bad start ;-)...

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/9FSSLOa9eEo?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Part 2 to follow soon :)


Shopping list of parts to save others time finding them (will update here as each build video is released so this will become a complete list of parts):

Kit & Electronics:

1 x AX90027 Axial SCX10 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Kit.
1 x R615/28554 OrangeRx R615 Spektrum/JR DSM2 Compatible 6Ch 2.4Ghz Receiver.
1 x #3224 Novak Timbuk2 / Ballistic Brushless System – 13.5T Wraith Edition w/5A BEC.
1 x SC-1256TG Savox High Torque Titanium Gear Digital Steering Servo.

Hardware upgrades:

2 x AX30395 Axial Scorpion Heavy Duty Bevel Gear 38T.
2 x AX30786 Axial WB8 Aluminium Driveshaft Retainer Ring (2).
1 x AX30708 Axial AX10 Locked Transmission Complete Gear Set (3).
1 x AX30860 Axial Machined Motor Plate (Hard Anodized).
1 x AX30836 Axial Aluminium Servo Horn 25T (Hard Anodized) - For Savox servos.
3 x AX8087 Axial 1.9 8 Hole Beadlock Wheels (2).

Bling:

4 x RC4WD King Kong Mini Tow Shackle.
2 x RC4WD Chubby 6 Ton Metal Scale Jack Stands (2).
 
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Axial SCX10 Rubicon Build Pt2: Evil Oversight... Having taken over 4WheelRC's facilities & staff, Strider begins his evil plan:

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/t3LW5CUNrzg?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Watch for the final part of the chassis build - coming soon: The good Minions under orders from Katniss & Peeta begin a plan to recover the SCX10 :)
 
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Axial SCX10 Rubicon Build Pt3: Resistance... Strider & his evil minions continue their forced construction of the SCX10. But Katness, Peeta & their good minions are working on a plan to retrieve the SCX10! Hope you enjoy it :)

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/OTIaxFeHj6g?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


FYI front mounted battery instructions at: Axial Racing - Battery Relocation – SCX10 Jeep RTR

My eyes are sore and need a break :oops: Now what shall I do for Pt4? Hmmm...
 
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Axial SCX10 Rubicon Build Pt4: Track & Rescue... Having taken over 4WheelRC's facilities & staff, Strider takes the Axial SCX10 Rubicon back to his lair. But Katness, Peeta and their good minions are at this very moment tracking Strider and have a plan to retrieve the SCX10!

Note: This one is just 'story', no progression on the SCX10 build, but I hope you find it amusing ;-)

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/nbl87jOfHks?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Back to the build in part 5: 4-link front, floor pan, electronics, bodyshell and those darn leaking shocks to mention just a few things I need to do next :)
 
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SOLUTION for leaking Axial shocks: Tamiya o-rings...

@Leaking Axial shocks: I have made progress on this and following some suggestions in forums have tried replacing the stock O-rings in the dampers on my SCX10 Rubicon with the Tamiya red O-rings part number 50597 (used on the TA05, F350, CC, DB01, TT01 etc.)...

The red Tamiya O-rings are a fairly hard compound, so should last well (you can get other colors which are softer compounds so maybe smoother but leakier, the reds feel smooth enough to me): They are 3mm internal diameter, so fit the Axial shock shafts fine. However, their external diameter is a little larger - This means that you have to squeeze them into the shock body. I achieved this by not using the small black plastic spacer that Axial put between the two O-rings and then you need to be really careful pushing the Tamiya O-rings in (I'll post a YouTube video on this soon):

gallery_30889_2994_6976.jpg


5 days in and the bump stops on my shocks are now dry as a bone and their action feels fine. When the truck has been sat on axle stands for a few days, there is little bit of 'sticking' from the shock the first time you push a wheel up, but this goes immediately (not sure if they were like this before "thumbsup"
 
Re: SOLUTION for leaking Axial shocks: Tamiya o-rings...

4WheelRC said:
you need to be really careful pushing the Tamiya O-rings in
Click to expand...

Says the guy holding the o ring at knife point. :lmao: JK man, nice twist on the video series, looks like a nice build list.
 
Re: SOLUTION for leaking Axial shocks: Tamiya o-rings...

hpiguy said:
Says the guy holding the o ring at knife point. :lmao: JK man, nice twist on the video series, looks like a nice build list.
Click to expand...
Hey, it is a flat blade screw driver with a fairly blunt end ;-) But yes I did nearly terminate the odd o-ring doing that :oops:
 
Another update video for y'all - Overview of the electrics and the first test run (still a naked chassis):

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/oFMyJe5nUag?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


4-Link upgrades coming next... "thumbsup"
 
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Crawl Space said:
Nice test video! I think the Flysky gt3c / gt3b can be purchased hacked from losikid and will do 6 channels. Not sure about shipping across the pond however. Good luck with the sticks ;)
Click to expand...
Hey Crawl Space, many thanks for the information about that transmitter - I'll have to keep that in mind for the future "thumbsup"
 
Alloy upper 4-links are done at last!

Quick update for y'all: I have been driving myself crazy getting the alloy 4-link uppers done, with clearance from chassis, transmission shafts etc. in all suspension positions. But yesterday I solved it :) I will be uploading a video for this soon, but for now...



The Alloy 4 Link Upper Rears are done: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/uploads/gallery_30889_2994_252890.jpg

The Alloy 4 Link Upper Fronts require drastic measures!: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/uploads/gallery_30889_2994_122729.jpg
 
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Suspension & Steering upgrades done...

Boom! Triple build update video time "thumbsup" ...

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/9jebLxE_oBQ?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/jxp46yA8ADQ?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/acReVqXoFNk?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Pro Line PL-C Floor Pan 12.3 (PL3339-00) done at last!

Lots of cutting with my Dremmel, followed by sticking on some curved sections of lexan to fill gaps at the front of the front wheel arches & rear edges by the rear bumper (floorpan is not an exact fit for the JK Rubicon bodyshell), 4 coats of Tamiya PS-5 (black) inside, 2 coats of Tamiya PS-55 (flat clear) on the outside (trucks don't have glossy wheel arches!), then 2 coats of black PlastiDip in the wheel arches and here she is (video to follow later)...

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/uploads/gallery_30889_2994_58955.jpg

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/uploads/gallery_30889_2994_28541.jpg

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/uploads/gallery_30889_2994_2425.jpg

Now I can get onto final fit wiring & waterproofing the electrics, then spray the bodyshell. Can't wait until I can take this out on the trail! :)
 
LED Controllers and Transmitter 'Frame Rate' - Grrrrrr!

I'm making steady progress, but 'Project Lighting' suffers a slight LED control set-back... This is going to be teaching some of you to 'suck eggs', but here is a quick 'how to' on using one of the 'multi channel' radio systems (5, 6 or more channels) typically used for aircraft & helicopters with your ground based remote control vehicle/model - I had to get into this to have all the extra channels to control things I am putting into my SCX10 build.

I hope the warning about 'Frame Rate' helps some avoid the problem I have stumbled across with my 3Racing LED controller :cry:

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/1jmW1CsjsIE?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Useful link about the 3Racing LED Controller Vs Transmitter 'Frame Rate' problem: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elec...-owners-compatibility-list-good-bad-ugly.html
 
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Axial SCX10 Leaking Shocks Solved (80%).

I'm calling time on my experiment to solve the (3 out of 4) leaking shock absorbers on my SCX10 Rubicon: A month after replacing the Axial O-rings with "Tamiya 50597 Damper O-rings (10pcs)." the results are in...
In summary the Tamiya O-rings make a big difference to the rate of oil loss from the dampers. They are not a perfect 100% leak free fix, but a huge improvement for a low cost. However they are tricky to install. Here is a video on the leaks, the new orings and the results:

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/tqQtZhqV5NI?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thanks to 'BigGaz' on the ModelSport UK forum for suggesting the Tamiya 50597 O-rings "thumbsup"
 
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