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28's Creeper

rmdesignworks said:
TT is mainly link geometry...you have the rear set up well enough but you also need to seperate the front uppers...move them to the outside of the link tabs on the axle...15mm worth of spacer/s will be needed between the tabs or two rod end balls. Heres the problem...the front axle roll center is still too close to the front axle. Also your shocks need to angle outward from the chassis to the axle mounting points...not like stock but a little. Having them so far apart at the top and almost equally spread at the axle/s makes for less outward spring response. My front shocks are almost straight up and down from the chassis to the axle but my front upper links are spread apart.

How much weight are you currently running in your front wheels? You need at least 3-4oz to help the front end settle the spring pre-loads.
Click to expand...

Cool, I'll move the front links and see what I can do to the shocks. I do plan on moving the shocks like yours inside of the chassis for better steering.
No weight yet in any of the wheels. I plan on getting some this weekend though. I'll go with 4 in fronts to start with. Thanks..
 
having weight in the front will help them stuck to the rocks and spreading the links apart will help as well and try to take the rear shock that is on the opposite sie of the one that is lifting and make it stiffer that will help as well but the links make the most difference
 
Got my CR-01 drive shafts FINALLY! one month shipping! Went to install no set screws. Does anyone know what size set screws to use in them. Thanks
 
asw27x said:
having weight in the front will help them stuck to the rocks and spreading the links apart will help as well and try to take the rear shock that is on the opposite sie of the one that is lifting and make it stiffer that will help as well but the links make the most difference
Click to expand...


Guys as you all know I am a huge ANTI-STIFFER SPRING Protester for fixing or to decrease TT...all this does is make your suspension stiff and your rig unpredictable....link geometry is the way you fix TT,,,NOT SPRINGS AND OIL!
 
Been a while since I've posted here but I'm now moving forward with getting this Creeper up to par. I don't comp but I want it to be capable as it can be whenever/wherever I do run it.
Since the last post of done a few other little things to it. Moved the front upper links and shocks, took the bend out of the rear lowers and flipped them, put on some Rover white dots and added about 4oz of weight in the front tires, rc4wd front axles, pin loxs and JB welded the diffs. All of these mods are an improvment but I'm still not where I want to be with it.
Pic of how it sits now...
ee67397f.jpg

b155645c.jpg

My shocks leak, steering servo is crap and I hav'nt been able to get the TT down to minimum where I can live with it, so in hopes to rectify the problems, I've got parts on order.

Parts list ordered....
RMDW XRv2 chassis
RMDW BTL kit
RMDW front/rear truss kit
RMDW bec jack
Hitec 7954sh servo
Losi 4" shocks
New style venom tranny skid

Debating on whether to order the HR knuckles and c hubs. The stockers have held up great so far and having a spare from the rear lockout install I think I'm good for a while. Just wondering if they're going to become the weak link real quick once these other parts are installed though?




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if the knuckles and C's have held up well, then i would say stay with them. but the front truss kit was designed with the use of the aluminum C's. the XRv2 will definitely be worth the wait. Ive run mine for a while and i love it. along with that the BLT steering will give u more steering and allow u to bring that battery of the back and be able to mount it right on that front axle "thumbsup"
 
If the front truss was designed around the HR aluminum c hubs then I'll just go ahead and pick those up along with the knuckles.
I do plan on moving the batt up front but I'm not sure the 2200mah battery that I have will allow for steering clearance. I'm going to look into a smaller mah.
Anybody know the max size or mah batt that'll still allow for steering clearance on the rmdw bta kit?


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28offroader said:
If the front truss was designed around the HR aluminum c hubs then I'll just go ahead and pick those up along with the knuckles.
I do plan on moving the batt up front but I'm not sure the 2200mah battery that I have will allow for steering clearance. I'm going to look into a smaller mah.
Anybody know the max size or mah batt that'll still allow for steering clearance on the rmdw bta kit?


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Click to expand...

The trusses will work with the stock C's youll just have to add a couple of washers to make the difference is between the HR C's and the stock plastics...but its not much.

1350's will fit
 
Alright, I'll look for some 1350 mah.
Good to know the truss will work with the hubs. Probly going to still get the aluminum HR goodies, it'll be good to have the piece of mind.


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:mrgreen:The polished links look sick , did you use oven cleaner? and the xrv2 kit is going to look cool with the links as well !! the losi shocks w white springs is what the paradox team uses on the crawlers , i havent heard of tt with these shocks . subscribed 8)
 
santa cruz crawler said:
:mrgreen:The polished links look sick , did you use oven cleaner? and the xrv2 kit is going to look cool with the links as well !! the losi shocks w white springs is what the paradox team uses on the crawlers , i havent heard of tt with these shocks . subscribed 8)
Click to expand...

Thanks, I used Commercial strength Greased Lightning straight up. Did'nt care for it cause it took a long time...about 30-40 minutes soaking. I've used Industrial strength before and that works a lot better, only takes about 10-15 minutes.

I'm sure there will still be TT but hopefully at a minimum with it all set up together.


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the tt will go away if u have ur links geo set properly/ based on some previus pics, try moving your rear link mounting holes on the chassis down some and try moving your front link mounting points on the chassis up some. front link geo will do just as much as the rear when it comes to elimating tt with link geo
 
venomcrawlerdud said:
the tt will go away if u have ur links geo set properly/ based on some previus pics, try moving your rear link mounting holes on the chassis down some and try moving your front link mounting points on the chassis up some. front link geo will do just as much as the rear when it comes to elimating tt with link geo
Click to expand...

Rear uppers at the chassis are as low as they can go without modding a new mount. Same for the front upper height ... or having to shorten the links to mount in existing holes. Neither of which I want to do untill the new chassis gets here and see how it works out. I'll set the links like you described and start there.
I think my biggest problem right now are the shocks. Always leaking fluid, loosing dampning is just making them too soft.



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mine leak also. and the top caps strip out with time , the springs are too soft , i got the ckrc stage 2 kit , the springs that it comes with seem to be much better, but i will be purchasing the losi shocks w white springs .
trial an error:mrgreen:
 
i bought the stage 2 kit for mine as well. i'm using the 70mm links on mine. but what i had to do to get my tt down was drill 4 new holes in the chassis. with having links that were long enough it was just as simple as figuring out where i wanted the holes to be
 
I see a lot if guys running the 70mm links but I hav'nt read where it says why it's better??


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