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28's Creeper

they dont run them because there better, we run them as some guys need the extra length of the 70mm links. im running the XR chassis and i actually had to add 10mm of length to each of my front and rear links. and they still still arent long enought in my liking.
 
Got my first round of parts in yesterday. Shocks, skid, servo and batts.

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While I wait for other parts I decided to build an incline board to give me something to go off of during building the truck and getting it dialed in. I used 60 grit sand paper to keep it in line with the creep-o-rama thread.
How my truck sits in the pic above I can only get 55 degress. With moving the battery to the front I was able to bump it up to 58. But each time the front right tire was lifting pretty good. It's actually better than I thought it would do.
I'll build the shocks next, throw em on and see how/if it changes the incline degree.

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nice that u got those parts. u will be very happy with the shocks. unforchantly i cant give u any tips on biulding them as i bought mine used, but u will like them. also dont go hog wild with using that incline board. actually get out and go crawling with it after words. incline is not always what proves a good crawler "thumbsup"
 
nice that u got those parts. u will be very happy with the shocks. unforchantly i cant give u any tips on biulding them as i bought mine used, but u will like them. also dont go hog wild with using that incline board. actually get out and go crawling with it after words. incline is not always what proves a good crawler "thumbsup"

I hear ya on the incline board....but...made it up to 61 with the losi shocks installed,..lol..

About the shocks, I think they were the easiest shocks to build and bleed that I've ever done so far. Went 30 weight all around, suckers are smooth.
Only gripe I have are the lower plastic caps, would've much rather seen it metal with an o-ring for a seal. After a few times of screwing them on and off I can see them starting to leak.
Stock chassis just is'nt designed for these shorter shocks, I lost a lot of articulation with them. Hopefully the new chassis arrives soon..


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depending on how u have them mounted will determin articulation. post some pics of your setup, ill help u out. before the XR, i use to run a stock chassis with no battery tray and losi shocks. had lots of articulation when i had them setup right "thumbsup"
 
Thanks, I'll try and get some pics up after work....just dependant on how tired I am. 12 hr work days are a pia after a while.


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Got the pics...

Here's showing max flex..

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Mounting locations...I've seen people run the losi shock mounts attached to the chassis but again, not wanting to buy anything for this chassis. If I need to I'll make my own mounts for now but would rather not waste the time.

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okay first things first.
basic:
  • take the battery tray of and put some bracers in there. it will help a ton with its crawling
  • move your upper rear links in just a tad. like move the 2mm spacer on the inside of the links to the outside closet to the mounting tabs to get some more rear trainglution.
rear:
  • mount on top hole of chassis
  • have shock 6mm of the chassis (put spacer inbetween)
  • move your links to inside the stock link tabs
  • mount shocks on outside of link tabs, closet to the wheels
front:
  • have the upper shocks in the top hole of chassis
  • move you to the inside of the stock link tabs (meaning put a spacer in the link tabs and put a shocks closet to the pumpkin or center of the axle)
  • now here u have 2 choices, u can mount your links to the in side of the shocks or inbetween the stock lower link tabs, that your choice
shocks:
  • i know on mine i rebuilt them and took some spacers that i found in them out to get a little more shock throw, id suguest doing the same for when running the stock chassis, if u did put anything in them
for right now thats all i can spot, but try this and see how it works "thumbsup"
 
I built the shocks without limiters so they're at full travel.
I'll move the stuff around in the next day or so and see what happens. First testing will be out at Tierra Del Sol this weekend.


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Round 2 of parts came in today, I'm stoked! Thanks Thomas.
I also picked up a set of picquic, quick release hex drivers for the impact, should make building the rig a breeze. HR hubs and knuckles should be here in a day or so. I'll start the rebuild sometime this weekend.

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Recieved the HR hubs and knuckles today. Great looking pieces...

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But ran into a snag on install. You have to reuse your spacer sleeve from the stock knuckle. When I went to tighten down the knuckle to hub it would bind like crazy. Ended up having to add 1 shim inbetween the hub and knuckle. Did'nt matter if it was put on the top or bottom side. After that it was silky smooth.

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Also started the truss installs. Got the rear finished but have a question on the fronts. The supplied button head screw holding the link stay on pushes the truss away from the axle housing. I'm wondering which way you guys are mounting the truss? Obviously your own supplied spacers are needed for the rears and fronts as well ,but are you guys spacing the truss far enough away from the axle for the button head screw clearance, countersinking the truss, or drilling a hole through the axle housing?
Or some other way I'm not thinking of?
I'm going to countersink the truss unless I hear of a better way of doing it before I install it tomorrow. I figure countersunk keeps from needing a spacer at the hub and keeps the truss closer to the axle for support.

Pic of what I'm talking about and am going to countersink.

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was it a hard build? was thinking of getting one for my son but i would be the one building it and not sure if i can do it agian. i bult a Honch and it kicked my but. this one does not look to bad.
 
was it a hard build? was thinking of getting one for my son but i would be the one building it and not sure if i can do it agian. i bult a Honch and it kicked my but. this one does not look to bad.

Nope, was'nt hard to build at all. Venom did a great job with the kit.


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