• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Catch All Ring Gear Screw Breakage Thread

Boom Racing has a pretty good solution to breaking ring gear bolts: keying the locker into the gear. Not sure if the execution is any good but the idea is solid.

1.jpg
 
Boom Racing has a pretty good solution to breaking ring gear bolts: keying the locker into the gear. Not sure if the execution is any good but the idea is solid.

1.jpg

Very nice, shoulda been keyed like this from the git go, not relying on three 2mm screws to transfer all the power to the wheels. "thumbsup"
 
Boom Racing has a pretty good solution to breaking ring gear bolts: keying the locker into the gear. Not sure if the execution is any good but the idea is solid.

1.jpg

Better idea if they make the locker/ring with 4 screws instead 3 screws, like now :roll:
 
I disagree. 4 gears can (and will) shear off too, having the ring gear and spool keyed to each other takes all of the shear forces off the screws, so their only job is resisting torsional loads. They'll still see those torsional loads with a helical gear, but you'll be way better off by not dealing with the (even greater) shear force.
 
Vanquish locker here, i broke all my screws, front and rear:

1eb9lt.jpg

2uysuu9.jpg


I abuse pretty hard my rig and it has a ROC412 so it wasn't a total surprise when i found out they were broken, but in my Wraith it never broke one of those, i just ordered the 12.9 screws to see how they will hold up, and now i need to try to remove the loctited remainings from the spool's thread

I actually broke one screw into the VP locker while assembling them (probably screwed it in crooked). I was able to drill the remainings out with a 1,5 mm drill bit, with a hand held power tool.

The locker is so hard that even the threads did not take damage.

But do drill all the way through the locker so that any remainings of the old screw can get out.

I did order a spare VP locker to replace the drilled, and I will keep the drilled one as a backup.
 
Dissasembled my front axle/locker today after breaking one of the driveshafts.

All 3 locker screws were not tight. I wouldn't call them loose, but a hobo freight L wrench would have had no problem removing them.

They're 12.9 screws that were assembled with red threadlock and tightened to the point of me worrying about breaking the MIP tip.

I would guesstimate 100ish hours on them, slightly less. The original ring/pinion gears must have 200+ on them and still look great"thumbsup"

Adding new locker screws to the yearly maintenance list :lmao:
 
The only ones I have broken were because I over tightened them. Didn't even know about the 12.6 screws. Thanks for the info, I'll definitely pick some up for my next build when installing new lockers.
 
I'd just get the Honcho one piece lockers as soon as they become available. Should rid the issues completely.
200a3ae8973c77bf7a2b318a3e065122.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Trail Honcho states clearly, ring gear and locker are a single-unit piece made from strong sintered metal with a CNC cut pinion.
That's directly off the box art. Take it as you will.
 
Started to make a "clicking noise" you say? Sounds familiar. Might be time for a tear down and inspection.

I have broken 2 screws total. They were installed with the blue thread locker that comes in the kit, and I used my trusty bit driver to install them. I noticed an issue going on when my diff gears started to make a clicking noise. This was also only in the front diff. Rear has never had an issue. I opened the diff and found two bolts broken and the remaining bolt loose. I replaced them with new stainless bolts and used red locktite on them. Haven't had an issue since, but the damage done to the gears will still allow it to skip a tooth or two under heavy binds in reverse only. I would guess that I had anywhere from 100-120 hours on it when it failed.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Trail Honcho states clearly, ring gear and locker are a single-unit piece made from strong sintered metal with a CNC cut pinion.
That's directly off the box art. Take it as you will.

AKA powdered potmetal, same as the stock lockers, orginal ax10 gears, lockers, etc.
 
Powdered (sintered) metal is as good as it’s made, in other words, depending on ingredients, quality of mold (die), sinter temperature and pressure, care of machines setup and operation it can be very good or it can be crap. :)
 
Totally agree with Natedog. I bought a Tamiya CR-01 kit back when they first came out, their gears are sintered as well. I actually had a defective ring gear in the kit that was porous. That's pretty unusual for Tamiya, but they promptly sent me a replacement.
 
Totally agree with Natedog. I bought a Tamiya CR-01 kit back when they first came out, their gears are sintered as well. I actually had a defective ring gear in the kit that was porous. That's pretty unusual for Tamiya, but they promptly sent me a replacement.
The Axial Sintered is pretty legit. I made custom modifications to my locker so I can attest to its strength. A regular drill bit wouldn't even scratch it. It took a 2 fluted carbide bit with oil in a drill press and even that was struggling with tiny chips. It's at or beyond stainless in quality. It instantly dulled a hss tap. It's honestly about the toughest material I've worked with and I've worked with titanium, tool steel and high grade stainless. My initial thoughts were the same as everyone else till I put it to the test.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top