jebster's creeper

[jebster]

my creeper is the first crawler i've owned and i love it. i've been modifying my creeper based on much of the advice i've been reading on this forum. it has been very helpful. i've modified my rear links as noted by rmdesignworks (much appreciated!). i feel that torque twist has been reduced but it is still present. how much can it be reduced? given this is a shafty i don't think it can be completely eliminated but how low can it go? could changes to the front geometry (i'm still working on that) compound the issue?

inputs/advice is appreciated. also, how to i post pics? i've read the FAQ and i'm not seeing the "Manage Attachments" button they mention. (i'm pretty much a newbie to forums.)

 

[rmdesignworks]

Pics bro,,,gotta have pics,,we caa help you much better with pics,,ya know we need pics right?

Welcome to the money pit and the Creeper Realm.

Oh wow great grammar,,,sorry guys,,edited

 

[lazynocturnal]

if you buy a star you can post directly to the site and spnsor this great sight also....or be like me and upload them to photobucket and copy and paste the img code....

and welcome to the fun world of the creeper...

 

[jebster]

they didn't note a star is what allows you to post pics directly in the FAQ. looks like i'll be providing financial support to the site after all.

rmdesignworks, i'll be getting pics up tonight (gotta work today to funding the RC addiction!).

 

[jebster]

ok. here is what i've got (with pictures below):
ckrc stage 2 kit
dig
novak goat 3s
venom 55t
saddle pack lipo on custom battery tray
traxxas drive shafts

my next investments will be new tires (rovers) and possibly a brushless motor. that is why i'm curious about torque twist. i still have more than i would expect and adding more power and traction would only seem to make it worse. if anyone sees something in my setup that i can change i'm open to suggestions.

 

[icemancrawler]

Read RMDesignWorks OnTheCreeperWagon thread from beginning to end. he has the ultimate creeper copy his mods and you should'nt have any problems"thumbsup"

 

[rmdesignworks]

First off I wanna say,,,Very nice work on the aluminum pieces. The rear axle set up is sick....although I would suggest a couple of things. One,,,I would stack the lipos on the front axle. Mount one to the right of the servo then center the second one on top of the servo and first lipo. You really want you weight bias forward. Secondly...when you mount the lipos up front that will allow you to widen your rear upper links more at the rear axle. The links are very close to being almost perfect but they could really stand be another 20-24mm apart (add about 12mm to each side with what you already have) it will make the uppers much closer to parallel. Third...move your lower rear links to inside the rear axle mounts like in the instructions (between the mount tabs) and mount the shocks to the outside of the mounts. This will give you much better shock stability and better link geometry.

And I just noticed it but I would also move the upper rear links at the chassis end to the outer most hole to increase your pinion and driveline angle. This will ehlp with rear axle approach angle. Just make sure any change to links of any sort doesnt put you over the legal comp length for wheel base if you want to comp,,,12.5 inches MAX.

 

[jebster]

good suggestions. i'll be moving the rear links/shocks as you mentioned and move the upper links out from the chassis center on both the front and rear to increase the pinion/driveline angles (one of the things i just noticed that i wanted to work on). to get the rear upper links more parallel could i also decrease the separation at the chassis end? i'm curious because i may keep the saddle pack on the rear axle (at least for now). i was thinking adding weight to the front while still having weight on the back would help bring the overall CG down and still provide the forward weight bias needed. if i do that i could get the links separated at the axle but i'll need to raise my bracket so the links would be above the saddle packs.

one other question. i've seen narrow 2.2 wheels advertised. is there a benefit to narrow vs. standard? i'm consider the narrow 2.2 aluminum wheels on ckrc (green beadlocks). i like the green theme!

 

[jebster]

would the weight bias at the rear i currently have contribute to torque twist? i've read that geometry is the best way to address TT but would harder ring springs help? i didn't install the stage II springs yet.

 

[rmdesignworks]

good suggestions. i'll be moving the rear links/shocks as you mentioned and move the upper links out from the chassis center on both the front and rear to increase the pinion/driveline angles (one of the things i just noticed that i wanted to work on). to get the rear upper links more parallel could i also decrease the separation at the chassis end? i'm curious because i may keep the saddle pack on the rear axle (at least for now). i was thinking adding weight to the front while still having weight on the back would help bring the overall CG down and still provide the forward weight bias needed. if i do that i could get the links separated at the axle but i'll need to raise my bracket so the links would be above the saddle packs.

one other question. i've seen narrow 2.2 wheels advertised. is there a benefit to narrow vs. standard? i'm consider the narrow 2.2 aluminum wheels on ckrc (green beadlocks). i like the green theme!

Ok. Jeb...I would avoid increasing the pinion angle too much on the front,,you an but tremember to watch the KPI,,king pin inclination or caster angle of the front knuckles. If you increase too much you will begin steering forward and downward which will go against the rig when climbing.

The extra weight can hurt you when it comes to TT yes. The rear having extra weight will begin to plant and not allow the front to get traction and kick over on verts and breakovers..you want the added weight and more weight forward to make the front end settle better and to help pop the rear over edges and verts. I run 3oz. in each of my wheels. And the extra weight of the lipo and electrics give me the forward bias that works for me.

Narrow wheels do have some advantagesover wides and vice versa...I have really come to like my CKRC LINK "Murdered Out" Black Aluminums. I personally like the way the handle on the Creeper,,,one thing to consider though is my Paradox Foams. They react differently than most inserts. They also fill my tires.

So heres my primary suggestion....velcro strap the lipos to the front axle before you do anything else,,links,shocks anything. See what the Creeper does with add weight on the front axle and less on the rear. You did understand what I meant about stacking them in a staggered configuration?

would the weight bias at the rear i currently have contribute to torque twist? i've read that geometry is the best way to address TT but would harder ring springs help? i didn't install the stage II springs yet.

 

[jebster]

i'll give it a shot. i get what you mean by stacking the battery on the front axle.

appreciate the input. i'm enjoying just messing around with the rig and seeing what it can do. i'm sure i'll be on the forum alot looking for new and different configurations.

by the way, if i was interested in your paradox foams how would i go about getting some?

 

[rmdesignworks]

Paypal Bro,,,my id is rmdesignworks@yahoo.com,,,$20.00 a set (takes care of all four tires)

 

[Abavuso]

Very nice work I would have to say... did you cut you're aluminum your self? I've been trying to find a place to do some aluminum cutting for me and am still searching.

 

[jebster]

i appreciate the compliment. i did cut, bend and drill the aluminum myself. i wish i had more time to do this type of work but between work and kids it take me awhile to get anything done.

i plan on creating more parts for my creeper soon but it is always going to be on a small scale.

 

[jebster]

Paypal Bro,,,my id is rmdesignworks@yahoo.com,,,$20.00 a set (takes care of all four tires)

ok. once i decide on wheels/tires i'm going to seriously consider it. i've seen a lot of positive feedback on the forum about them from others.

 

[jebster]

Very nice work I would have to say... did you cut you're aluminum your self? I've been trying to find a place to do some aluminum cutting for me and am still searching.

one correction. the front plate was a ckrc plate i made some minor mods to. want to give credit where it is do!

the chassis brace, rear link and battery mount were mine.

 

[jebster]

i've looked over a lot of material and haven't seen much about modifications to the front end setup. does everyone feel the link spacing/placement in the stock configuration is good? i've added the stage II kit and moved my upper links out a little but i was curious if spreading the upper links at the axle (like the rear) adds any benefit.

 

[jebster]

another question. what servo do people recommend? i got a hitec 645MG but i'm not sure that will be enough torque once i get better tires with more traction and add wheel weight.

 

[rmdesignworks]

You need at least a 300oz of torque,,,I personally recommend the JR DS8711.

 

[jebster]

You need at least a 300oz of torque,,,I personally recommend the JR DS8711.

ok. and your bec diagram in the tips thread was very helpful. by the way, in one of my earlier posts i asked about the front suspension geometry. any recommended changes?