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Your preferred wheelbase/link setup?

Alaskan

Newbie
Joined
Feb 22, 2022
Messages
30
Location
Juneau
What is your preferred wheelbase/link choice and why?

I just did a 4 link conversion up front on my Jeep and had to do some trimming to the grill area on the body to clear the servo with the new extended wheelbase. I relocated the front lower links to the top and used the extra rear lower links that come in the scx24 kit to use as the front lower links. Finished it off by trimming and installing the extra female drive shaft after cutting it to size.

I used the warthog chassis YouTube install video because he goes through the 4 link conversion as part of it. My goal is to get up this stair climb we’ve made in the house that as of now is not doable. We can get so close but just can make it up the last step! I’m looking for that little extra to make it happen and maybe this chassis extension will help.

Anyway I’m not 100% in on the changes I’ve made. I’m going to run my jeep this way for a bit to test things out. I’ve also got a bunch of parts coming in the mail like patigonias which I’m counting on to improve things as well.

I’d love to hear from you guys on your preferred setups? Why do you run your rig the way you do? Pics would be nice as well if possible.

Here is mine. It’s still a work in progress.
 
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Lengthening the wheelbase isn't always a good idea because you run the risk of dragging or hanging the skid. So, whether or not it helps with your step depends on the step dimensions and your climbing approach to the step as well. It's not very satisfying to hear but, it depends! lol

I run mostly 'standard' link setups with that usually being performance oriented and biasing weight towards the front. Prior to building SCX24 based rigs, I had never run or built anything with an extended wheelbase. I did extend the wheelbase of my Warthog per the designers recommendations and I'm building another rig with a longer wheelbase as well. We'll see how it turns out.

For some interesting content on chassis geometry and theory check this guys presentation out:

Rock Crawling Physics And Philosophy - Basic To Advanced

https://youtu.be/y_ibIJMDbNY
 
On my JLU I have 6 aftermarket JLU-size links, full rear and lower fronts, and I used the extra links as uppers. Seems to have stretched the wheelbase a tiny bit but not much. Thankfully my e-max servo still fits neatly under the hood although I did have to remove the front bumper and front bumper mount to make it work.

Especially with the Gladiator adding a THIRD layout I really wish the hop-up suppliers would A. sell 4-link set ups straight up, don't even bother with the dogbone, and B. let you mix and match which links you wanted. I just picked up a hard body Blazer that is like a 122mm wheel base, so ideally I'd probably have C10 rears and 4-linked deadbolts in the front... but to get a full set of 8 aluminum links would require buying both sets of links and I'd only even be using the front lowers from the deadbolt set
 
I run C10 front (sort of, 4 link uppers I made) and Deadbolt rears, about 5 5/8" wheelbase. Longer wheelbase and +4mm axles just balances everything better with the large tires. I am tempted to add rear steering though. It also makes high clearance lower links pretty much mandatory.

PXL-20220415-033753436.jpg
 
I found Injora High Clearance Links to be perfect for my needs.

On my MOFO LCG Belly Dragger I'm running C10 rear Length front and rear, set up as 4 Link.
Played around with Deadbolt rears in the rear, but found the rig would hang up on the skid too easily.
Widened the stance with hub wideners, and have it on stock axles. 1.0 Hyraxes.

My C10 has C10 stock lenth high clearance links, still needs to be changed to 4-link in the front.
It's heavy with widened axles, brass hub weights, front wheels weighted. This one has Patagonias and runs in full droop.

The Baby-Wraith is still on stock links, with Deadbolt rears in the back and C10 rears in the front.
It sits high with Mudslingers and heavyer springs than my other rigs. Clearance isn't a problem.

Now I'm playing with a rig that's aimed at performance. Dead Bolt high Clearance in the back, C10 high clerance in the front.
Looking forward to testing, but still still needs some work.
 
I do run with for my Jeep, but its the shorter or standard lenght Mofo RC four link on the front with McHue high clearance links. I'm sitting at 59/41 on weight distribution and this things crawls really well with the RC4WD steel bead locks and the Patagonia tires.
 
I have one with C10 front and rear links. It does pretty good but the 3 link flexes just as well. Running the internal spring shock desert lizard style with the spring under the piston.
 
I have one with C10 front and rear links. It does pretty good but the 3 link flexes just as well. Running the internal spring shock desert lizard style with the spring under the piston.


4WS, radio link micro rx, lizard pro ESC with 66t brushed motor. Thought I’d try this ESC with a brushed motor and it works pretty dang good. Not as good as brushless but pretty close.
c6b4184faa4a74a1fe97602a29153a96.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I recently stumbled upon a tip somewhere to use deadbolt front lowers to 4 link the C10/JLU front end, and it works pretty well. I used the pivot ball screws from the stock steering links. I am curious to try the longer front end, but since I run several bodies on this chassis that are already setup for the wheelbase, I just haven’t committed to trying it out yet.. I haven’t gone HC links anywhere yet, but wanting to do that soon.. It seems like the most benefit of the HC link would come in the rear end, do y’all find that the fronts make a big difference? I might bend up some stock links soon just to experiment..

Oh, and to anyone wanting to try thes things, but turned away by the price of aftermarket, I purchased a set of stock Axial links from the LHS just to have spares to mess with. For $12 the pack includes all the lengths of stock links(short, med, long, upper and lower), pivot balls, and a bunch of screws. What a value!
 
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