Wraith Beginners Guide

[vortex000111]

Thanks tocsin, I pulled the car apart found that the pinion was loose on the drive shaft, so fixed that and fixed the mesh up and it till makes a single click very time the spur gear goes around one revolution, can't figure it out but the beauty runs really well now.

Thanks for your help,
Vortex

 

[malekia]

Vortex, are you sure the sound isn't coming from the axles? My rear axle is noticeably noisier than the front. This was apparent after step 4, even when I was twisting the axle shafts with my fingers.

 

[tocsin]

Can try flipping both diffs around in the housings. Sometimes they are just happier that way. Will have to reverse your motor rotation if you do.

My front diff is a little rough too. Hoping it'll smooth out when I put the helical cut heavy duty gears in, after the felsenfast lockers arrive.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Lundy]

Hey everyone, got my wraith going this evening and everything is going great but when I accelerate to fast there is a ratchet or clicking noise comming from the main body bit, is this just the gears wearing in ordinary I need to check themesh, if so how?

Thanks,
Vortex

This happened to me, the first run was about 30 seconds long...
The motor wasn't meshed close enough to the spur gear, and stripped it.
I got a new one and now it runs perfectly.

 

[vortex000111]

The sound is Definately coming for The clutch it was making that noise when I ran it without it connected to the driveshafts.
I'm happy just to leave it because there is no damage being done as far as I can see.

 

[Madkiki]

In the first stage, when you say Axial Universals do you mean the AR60 OCP Universal Axel Set by Axial?

I was looking at the Vanquish BBD heavy duty Axel shafts and was wondering if this was the same thing?

I am a total newbie here and legally deaf, so all the help I can get will be most appreciated.

Thank you

 

[slimfire]

Wiring Diagrams

Note: None of these diagrams show the stock lighting controller. It only requires a 4-6v power supply so any open port will work or you can direct wire it off your BEC (as long as you are running appropriate voltage) or your ESC's red RX wire.

Standard stock setup WITH BEC.
Note that you need to pull the red wire out of the plug from the ESC so that you do not burn up the internal BEC in the ESC. Just pull it back and tape it, you will need to be able to reconnect it to program it via a Castle link or Hotwire if your ESC is compatible with that (stock ESC can use a Castle link).

A typical 2 servo system.

Dear Harley
I am a fairly new Wraith happy owner..
I was wondering whether I can use 3S and CC BEC 10A plugged into RX w/o damaging the light controller (stock Axial Wraith included into RTR - AX24257)
I did not find full spec about this controller, dunno whether it can stand higher voltage... I would like to set my BEC to 7,2 V to run high torque HT servo 7950TH, what do you think ?

I checked my RX is capable of handling up to 9,6 volts so no problem I guess... but the light controller?

and, do you suggest I stick to BEC connection diagram 1 or 2? (into RX or directly into Servo?

thanks for your support
/slim

 

[Harley]

In the first stage, when you say Axial Universals do you mean the AR60 OCP Universal Axel Set by Axial?

I was looking at the Vanquish BBD heavy duty Axel shafts and was wondering if this was the same thing?

I am a total newbie here and legally deaf, so all the help I can get will be most appreciated.

Thank you

Yes it is refering to the Universal axle set.

The VP VVD's are a much stronger version of the universals. They are just another upgrade option. The VVD's were not out when I wrote that post.

 

[Harley]

Dear Harley
I am a fairly new Wraith happy owner..
I was wondering whether I can use 3S and CC BEC 10A plugged into RX w/o damaging the light controller (stock Axial Wraith included into RTR - AX24257)
I did not find full spec about this controller, dunno whether it can stand higher voltage... I would like to set my BEC to 7,2 V to run high torque HT servo 7950TH, what do you think ?

I checked my RX is capable of handling up to 9,6 volts so no problem I guess... but the light controller?

and, do you suggest I stick to BEC connection diagram 1 or 2? (into RX or directly into Servo?

thanks for your support
/slim

I run my BEC into the RX because it is a cleaner and easier option. I have ran the stock light unit at 7.2v without a problem. I am not sure on what Axial specs say though.

 

[slimfire]

Thanks a lot indeed!

 

[doc.hamilton]

Harley,
I'm looking to build a wraith that's more of a basher than crawler.

So my question is this: will a traxxas vxl motor and esc from a stampede fit in a wraith kit?

I'm debating on selling my stampede or just using the electrics in my wraith kit.

Thanks a bunch for such an informative thread.

Cheers,
Todd

So I'm a goof... I just noticed Harley's other thread about drivetrain choices - D'oh. So I'm not gonna do this traxxas thing - just sell it and use the proceeds to purchase a brushed system.

T

 

[Harley]

Harley,
I'm looking to build a wraith that's more of a basher than crawler.

So my question is this: will a traxxas vxl motor and esc from a stampede fit in a wraith kit?

I'm debating on selling my stampede or just using the electrics in my wraith kit.

Thanks a bunch for such an informative thread.

Cheers,
Todd

So I'm a goof... I just noticed Harley's other thread about drivetrain choices - D'oh. So I'm not gonna do this traxxas thing - just sell it and use the proceeds to purchase a brushed system.

T

If you just want a speed basher then a VXL will work fine. I ran one for awhile, it's hard on parts a well but was fun at that specific duty. There are a few videos of it on the first page of my build thread.

 

[malekia]

I put one in temporarily to research a problem I was having. It fit, but I had to remove the plastic endcap.

So my question is this: will a traxxas vxl motor and esc from a stampede fit in a wraith kit?
T

 

[Harley]

I put one in temporarily to research a problem I was having. It fit, but I had to remove the plastic endcap.

If you rotate the motor properly you don't have to do that.

 

[WraithBurger]

Great thread Harley. Taught me a lot before I got my Wraith and helped me make the decision to get one. First thing to break was the steering knuckle (my daughter was going a little hard). Ordered the VP Knuckles, Universals, and Chubs to start with. We'll see where it goes from here. Definitely want to relocate the battery to the front. Thanks again.

 

[Plyfold]

Hi all, i have not yet received my wraith (kit) but am already looking at up-grades. i will be ordering from overseas so i need to make sure i don't miss anything of my order... if someone could cast their eye over this, it would be appreciated, i plan on going for the stage one upgrade listed on page 1:
vanquish products:
VPS03100 - drag link
VPS03110 - tie rod
VPS02004 - C-hub
VPS03200 - steering knuckle
i will also order a decent servo horn, recommendations? or any aluminium one be ok? (Savox)
VPS03120 - lower link (pair) - 2 of for front and back?
VPS03121 - upper link (pair) - 2 of for front and back?
will i have have all the parts (screws etc) i need or do i need other bits? and does this complete the steering upgrade completely?
are axial universals still required on the kit or are they the supplied ones? are these currently the best available? i'm not one for buying twice...
thanks in advance

 

[Harley]

Hi all, i have not yet received my wraith (kit) but am already looking at up-grades. i will be ordering from overseas so i need to make sure i don't miss anything of my order... if someone could cast their eye over this, it would be appreciated, i plan on going for the stage one upgrade listed on page 1:
vanquish products:
VPS03100 - drag link
VPS03110 - tie rod
VPS02004 - C-hub
VPS03200 - steering knuckle
i will also order a decent servo horn, recommendations? or any aluminium one be ok? (Savox)
VPS03120 - lower link (pair) - 2 of for front and back?
VPS03121 - upper link (pair) - 2 of for front and back?
will i have have all the parts (screws etc) i need or do i need other bits? and does this complete the steering upgrade completely?
are axial universals still required on the kit or are they the supplied ones? are these currently the best available? i'm not one for buying twice...
thanks in advance

Yes you will need two of each of the upper and lower links.

I suggest a double clamping servo horn, Axial or Robotronics.

You will need a few pieces of 3mm hardware for things. Do you have a little collection of hardware or have access to pick some up at a local hardware store?

The kit version comes with universals.

 

[Plyfold]

I have nothing at all, I am a complete novice. I would be happy to spend some cash on spare parts / useful bits etc but have no idea what these would be. I do have a LHS but they seem to be very pro tamiya. Although I'm sure to some extent nuts and bolts must be fairly generic?

Sent from my HTC

 

[malekia]

First time I took the Wraith out, and it took less than 2 minutes for the stock (kit) servo horn to lose it's teeth.

I went to my LHS; they had a huge Robotronic horn that they told me was too long, so I bought a Racer's Edge (10384B) for my Hitec HS-7955TG.

Putting it on, I had to use more force than I thought I should have to (no set screws yet) and I don't feel that it went on the servo "deep" enough. Are you supposed to spread the 2 parts open before assembly?

Also, what is the practical difference between using a servo programmer to set end points and setting travel on the radio?

Plastic or metal horn, the servo is pretty noisy. Is there anything that can be done about this?

 

[Harley]

First time I took the Wraith out, and it took less than 2 minutes for the stock (kit) servo horn to lose it's teeth.

I went to my LHS; they had a huge Robotronic horn that they told me was too long, so I bought a Racer's Edge (10384B) for my Hitec HS-7955TG.

Putting it on, I had to use more force than I thought I should have to (no set screws yet) and I don't feel that it went on the servo "deep" enough. Are you supposed to spread the 2 parts open before assembly?

Also, what is the practical difference between using a servo programmer to set end points and setting travel on the radio?

Plastic or metal horn, the servo is pretty noisy. Is there anything that can be done about this?

I've never been a huge fan of the racers edge horns, they really aren't that deep and tend to strip under some hard hits. Having to really press horns on though isn't a big deal.

Noisy servos are common, just something to get used to. A programmer can extend the travel of a servo beyond the capabilities of the radio. There are other benefits like that as well.