Dostradamas
RCC Addict
Thanks.
Great thread.
Boy I wish this kinda thing was around when I buit my 1st RC10T.
Great thread.
Boy I wish this kinda thing was around when I buit my 1st RC10T.
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Wraith Beginners Guide
- Thread starter Harley
- Start date
desertmaxx
Quarry Creeper
maybe you guys already explained it, but i didnt want to search through all 31 pages.:roll: i want to do a cage mod. not sure which one, but like the one that goes all the way to the rear of the chassis. rolled roof would be cool too."thumbsup" i like the look of the wraith when the back half of the chassis has been cut off, and nothing else done to it.;-)
It's not covered in this thread, but there are lots of other threads in this section that cover it. Just search for them.
I'm new into crawlers. I traded one of my sct for a fresh built kit wraith. I have quite a bit experience with Rc cars but not crawlers. The wraith has a spektrum servo and a 12t brushless set up. It's all stock except alum shocks. Im not entirely sure where to go now with this. I bought some weights for the front to help keep it down when climbing. It doesn't seem to really help. Can some one help me go in the right direction with this truck.
I just received my Mamba Max Pro and Tekin Pro4. I was surprised that the Pro4 doesn't come with any cables.
Should I cut off the MMP's banana plugs and solder the cable directly to the motor? or add male banana plugs to the motor? If the answer is "add", are these parts I can find in a HW store or Radio Shack?
Also: I bought the CC BEC (the smaller one), the Axial lighting controller, and I'm planning to install the dig kit. How/where can I connect these 3 on my 3-channel receiver?
Should I cut off the MMP's banana plugs and solder the cable directly to the motor? or add male banana plugs to the motor? If the answer is "add", are these parts I can find in a HW store or Radio Shack?
Also: I bought the CC BEC (the smaller one), the Axial lighting controller, and I'm planning to install the dig kit. How/where can I connect these 3 on my 3-channel receiver?
Lowering the ride height will help. You can flip the lower link/shock mounts on the axle over to drop it down a bit.
The Pro4 comes with the needed sensor cable, motor wires are up to you. I would suggest high quality wire, such as Deans Noodle wire. Do not use wire from Radio Shack or a hardware store. Banana plugs or not, that's just up to you.
Does your 3ch RX not have 4 slots?
I'm using a Spektrum SR300, mainly because I have an unused one. It has: AUX, THR, STR, BND.
I assume that the BND plug can only be used for binding?
One of the other Spektrum receivers has a BIND/RS plug. I'm not sure what is meant by "RS".
I assume that the BND plug can only be used for binding?
One of the other Spektrum receivers has a BIND/RS plug. I'm not sure what is meant by "RS".
I'm not 100% sure but I believe you can use the bind port. It's been a long time since I used Spek though.
You can use the Bind port for either your bec (everything powered at set voltage) or the lights (lights would always be on). To run all you listed, run the bec directly to the steering servo (use a Y harness) and plug your light controller into the Bind port (lights on when batt is plugged in), throttle stays the same as well as the dig servo to AUX.
On the SR300, you can use the bind port to tap or inject power. Just make sure to remove the red wire from your ESC first. We power transponders on the bind port and also add glitch buster capacitors to them. Use a Y adapter to plug the lights and BEC in on the bind port, and run the dig on AUX.
Thanks for all of the helpful replies.
I wired my motor (12g wet noodle/CC 4mm bullets) and added a connector to my ESC. Not the most beautiful solder job, but it's solid.
I can't complete final assembly b/c I'm still waiting for replacement rear shafts, but the motor/trans case are assembled and mounted on skid plate. I'm initially using a 32p 54T spur with a RR hardened .8mod 12T pinion.
At low throttle I can see the motor and trans case jiggling around, and not really together. Is this normal?
At full throttle I expected more noise/aggression. I don't expect it to act like my E-Revo's Mamba Monster, but still. Here's a video:
MMP and Tekin Pro4 3300
I wired my motor (12g wet noodle/CC 4mm bullets) and added a connector to my ESC. Not the most beautiful solder job, but it's solid.
I can't complete final assembly b/c I'm still waiting for replacement rear shafts, but the motor/trans case are assembled and mounted on skid plate. I'm initially using a 32p 54T spur with a RR hardened .8mod 12T pinion.
At low throttle I can see the motor and trans case jiggling around, and not really together. Is this normal?
At full throttle I expected more noise/aggression. I don't expect it to act like my E-Revo's Mamba Monster, but still. Here's a video:
MMP and Tekin Pro4 3300
The motor and trans should be rock solid together with no movement. Check to make sure your motor screws aren't too long and that your spur gear is spinning true and not wobbling.
12/54 is pretty mild gearing. Should have GOBS of torque, but if you're wanting more speed, you might go up to a 13 or 14. Remember to check your motor temps frequently. Did you calibrate your ESC to your radio?
Also, I saw in your video that you are testing with the wheels off. Remember, you're putting 5 1/2" tires on that dude. What seems slow at the hexes will be quite a bit faster 2 3/4" out
12/54 is pretty mild gearing. Should have GOBS of torque, but if you're wanting more speed, you might go up to a 13 or 14. Remember to check your motor temps frequently. Did you calibrate your ESC to your radio?
Also, I saw in your video that you are testing with the wheels off. Remember, you're putting 5 1/2" tires on that dude. What seems slow at the hexes will be quite a bit faster 2 3/4" out
I kind of see the shake you're talking about in the video. The screws holding the trans to the skid plate are two different sizes. Are you sure you got the long ones in the deeper holes? Looks like the whole trans case is moving on the skid plate?
Thanks, I checked those screws and they were fine. I HAD left out one of the case screws, but adding it didn't help.
It's difficult to tell what's going on because the motor and trans case are wiggling independently of each other and if you look at the beginning of the video, the spur also wobbles, but which came first?
I replaced the motor/esc with a Velineon VXL-3s from a Slash and switched out the 32P spur/pinion for the stock 48P 80T spur and a 48P 19T pinion. It didn't improve things.
This makes me think it's the trans or trans case or motor plate (not too solid). How can I possibly check the trans? This issue shows up when the motor is running not when I rotate by hand. Also, everything in the trans goes together in a set way, nothing I could have messed up.
It's difficult to tell what's going on because the motor and trans case are wiggling independently of each other and if you look at the beginning of the video, the spur also wobbles, but which came first?
I replaced the motor/esc with a Velineon VXL-3s from a Slash and switched out the 32P spur/pinion for the stock 48P 80T spur and a 48P 19T pinion. It didn't improve things.
This makes me think it's the trans or trans case or motor plate (not too solid). How can I possibly check the trans? This issue shows up when the motor is running not when I rotate by hand. Also, everything in the trans goes together in a set way, nothing I could have messed up.
So, I think I've narrowed things down to the final gear/hardware. I took the other 2 gears out of the trans, held the case shut between my fingers and rotated the outdrive shaft. I could feel the 2 halves of the case moving against each other as if something wasn't straight/square.
vortex000111
Newbie
Hey everyone, got my wraith going this evening and everything is going great but when I accelerate to fast there is a ratchet or clicking noise comming from the main body bit, is this just the gears wearing in ordinary I need to check themesh, if so how?
Thanks,
Vortex
Thanks,
Vortex
Shouldn't hear clicking. It's most likely the gear mesh between your motor pinion and the spur gear. You'll want to examine the teeth on your spur gear to make sure they're not rounded off. If they look okay, set the mesh by pushing the two all the way together and then back it off ever so slightly so that while holding the spur gear, you can move the pinion just enough to feel it move - if that makes sense. Turn the spur gear 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn and check again. Do this a few times until you're sure there are no "tight spots." The goal is to have the gears as close as possible, while still having a fraction of play between the two. Too loose and you'll round your spur. Too tight and you'll kill your motor and spur.
Can also place a piece of binder paper between the two, mesh the gears together with the paper in between and tighten it down. You should be able to turn the gears to cycle the paper out without binding.
Unfortunately, if you were hearing clicking, your spur gear is likely already toast. If the mesh looks good, it could be the ring and pinion gears in the axles aren't shimmed correctly.
Can also place a piece of binder paper between the two, mesh the gears together with the paper in between and tighten it down. You should be able to turn the gears to cycle the paper out without binding.
Unfortunately, if you were hearing clicking, your spur gear is likely already toast. If the mesh looks good, it could be the ring and pinion gears in the axles aren't shimmed correctly.
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