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Would replacing my vrd carbon motor mount plate with the plastic one from the stance lower the lcg?

HouseFeces

Newbie
Joined
Sep 2, 2024
Messages
13
Location
Seattle
Would replacing my vrd carbon metal motor mount plate with the plastic motor mount plate from the stance lower the lcg? I wondered why made the motor so huge with a high center of gravity, couldn’t they extended the plastic cover over the whole thing saving weight cutting the round part over the motor, the round part above seems a bit unnecessary.

Has anyone gone as far as to mount the plastic motor mount on?

I want to hear from anyone whether you comp or not. I just like making my crawler better. Skill can only carry so far and I have increased my crawlers vertical ability slowly to clear some hard lines much easier.

The motor mount plate is a big piece of metal on the unsprung weight, the chassis. Wondered if swapping to plastic would help lower cog enough to make it worth my time to swap, which is pretty easy just a bit time consuming.
 
I don’t have both on hand to weigh, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the carbon spec lightweight motor plate was in fact lighter than the plastic version.

The carbon spec vfd is noticeably lighter than any other vfd available.

Besides that the plastic motor plate allows too much movement for my taste, unless you’re running stock or lower end electronics.
 
If you're chasing grams of weight reduction. Maybe.

If you're just after lowering your CG point, I'd look into other options than swapping "upper half bits" for lighter versions. ie: getting as much weight onto the axles as possible to get it to keep the wheels stuck to the ground (wheel weights, heavier rims, etc).
 
I really appreciate the replies. A lot of good perspectives and info, thank you guys. I only started crunching weight as I have not done so well in my last local comp specifically side hilling so I thought id ask the community. Usually I’m afraid to ask things like this so I appreciate you guys deeply.
 
Even with all the upgrades the vrd carbon spec tranmission is still kind of heavy compared to the comp spec tranmissions. Getting the stubby kit and dropping the steering servo down behind the axle should help a good bit. If you don't want to go that route, adding weight down low and messing with shocks will help as well.
 
Even with all the upgrades the vrd carbon spec tranmission is still kind of heavy compared to the comp spec tranmissions. Getting the stubby kit and dropping the steering servo down behind the axle should help a good bit. If you don't want to go that route, adding weight down low and messing with shocks will help as well.
Fair point. If you’re real weight conscious something like the dlux portal or NOD, etc is a better choice.
 
Good to see a new username. That's especially true when asking questions like this. Welcome to the site! I hope you stick around.

It is easier to add weight low and overcome any differences in the weight of the motor plate. The plastic motor plate has a major disadvantage. It's basically a one-time use item and then disposable. Once you tighten the moto screws on the plastic, it leaves indentations behind. When you try to adjust the motor screws to a slightly different position, they tend to fall back into the indentations made by the original motor screw placement.
 
So the plastic motor plate was lighter?
The plastic plate with the stance is lighter by 4g, far less than I expected. The motor plate was machined efficiently for weight and durability. I'm definitely chasing grams at this point keeping the stock transmission.
Good to see a new username. That's especially true when asking questions like this. Welcome to the site! I hope you stick around.

It is easier to add weight low and overcome any differences in the weight of the motor plate. The plastic motor plate has a major disadvantage. It's basically a one-time use item and then disposable. Once you tighten the moto screws on the plastic, it leaves indentations behind. When you try to adjust the motor screws to a slightly different position, they tend to fall back into the indentations made by the original motor screw placement.
Thanks for the heads up, I ended up leaving the aluminum motor plate justifying all the work late at night for cleaning and re-greasing the transmission case. As of right now, I have been taking a long look at the rear brace which lifts a bit to clear the rear links. I've seen others removing this: . Any ideas for adding more weight to the axle, I'm all ears. I already have steering blocks, the heaviest I can find. Maybe a metal f10 axle.
en with all the upgrades the vrd carbon spec tranmission is still kind of heavy compared to the comp spec tranmissions. Getting the stubby kit and dropping the steering servo down behind the axle should help a good bit. If you don't want to go that route, adding weight down low and messing with shocks will help as well.
I have the thickest portal blocks on my vrd I can find other than that I could not figure out how to add more weight to the axle other than buying the aluminum f10 front portals. I don't count the wheels I actually like the wheels to be lighter than what most people use.
 
I have the thickest portal blocks on my vrd I can find other than that I could not figure out how to add more weight to the axle other than buying the aluminum f10 front portals. I don't count the wheels I actually like the wheels to be lighter than what most people use.
I'd offer my opinion of, you're missing out then.

I run the following in my front wheels:

Adding an entire wrap of harbor freight stick on wheel weights, adds an additional 86g per wheel up front. I literally just stick them directly onto the outside of the brass wheel clamp insert.


And the following in my rear wheels:
For the rear wheel clamp rings, I use the aluminum one that come with the rims.

Both rims, I run 1.9 IBTR Beadlock


Axles:
Brass knuckle/portal covers
Front: Vanquish Products Brass F10 Portal Knuckle Cover Weights (2) (128g) [VPS08650]
Rear: https://www.amainhobbies.com/vanquish-products-f10-brass-rear-portal-cover-weights-2-64.5g-vps08651/

Aluminum steer knuckles:
 
I'd offer my opinion of, you're missing out then.

I run the following in my front wheels:

Adding an entire wrap of harbor freight stick on wheel weights, adds an additional 86g per wheel up front. I literally just stick them directly onto the outside of the brass wheel clamp insert.


And the following in my rear wheels:
For the rear wheel clamp rings, I use the aluminum one that come with the rims.

Both rims, I run 1.9 IBTR Beadlock


Axles:
Brass knuckle/portal covers
Front: Vanquish Products Brass F10 Portal Knuckle Cover Weights (2) (128g) [VPS08650]
Rear: https://www.amainhobbies.com/vanquish-products-f10-brass-rear-portal-cover-weights-2-64.5g-vps08651/

Aluminum steer knuckles:
For some reason the links didn't work for me but I was able to see what they are through the link itself. This is a great list. You have a great wheel setup which I may follow. I have the same hubs 261g a set. The adhesive weights was a good idea too opened a new horizon for me, thank you for this. If you don't mind, I'd love to see you vrd comp rigs, if possible. Hope I'm not being too nosy. Pardon.
 
The plastic plate with the stance is lighter by 4g, far less than I expected. The motor plate was machined efficiently for weight and durability. I'm definitely chasing grams at this point keeping the stock transmission.

Thanks for the heads up, I ended up leaving the aluminum motor plate justifying all the work late at night for cleaning and re-greasing the transmission case. As of right now, I have been taking a long look at the rear brace which lifts a bit to clear the rear links. I've seen others removing this: . Any ideas for adding more weight to the axle, I'm all ears. I already have steering blocks, the heaviest I can find. Maybe a metal f10 axle.

I have the thickest portal blocks on my vrd I can find other than that I could not figure out how to add more weight to the axle other than buying the aluminum f10 front portals. I don't count the wheels I actually like the wheels to be lighter than what most people use.
The aluminum housings are not much heavier than the stock plastic housings (with brass tubes). Maybe a few grams. What size battery are you using? What electronics?
 
For some reason the links didn't work for me but I was able to see what they are through the link itself. This is a great list. You have a great wheel setup which I may follow. I have the same hubs 261g a set. The adhesive weights was a good idea too opened a new horizon for me, thank you for this. If you don't mind, I'd love to see you vrd comp rigs, if possible. Hope I'm not being too nosy. Pardon.
I'm also using that same wheel weight approach in all of my crawlers. Works amazingly well!

Sure, I actually have a thread with much of the build info and photos (most recent photos are at the end).
 
The aluminum housings are not much heavier than the stock plastic housings (with brass tubes). Maybe a few grams. What size battery are you using? What electronics?
Furitek Komodo 10 system. Comps: Tattu 450mah 4s, 650mah 4s lipo Home: 2s 850mah. If running the "long range" consistant lines in a large group I use the 1000mah 3s.

Out of all the crawling my main focus is not the comps. I have not been doing well this year in the few comps I've been to and the drive keeps getting further and further out. Recently, I found a shop with a massive hybrid indoor and outdoor(clean) crawl track but I cannot compete as I'm so far behind the regulars there but I'll shave every gram and hit the lines, tune.... until I catch up. Last night a friend told me if I wanted to compete there at a more competitive level I need to ditch the vfd transmission and chassis altogether and he suggested a what I think he said was a exo half dome chassis but I decided to just stay at my level and keep the chassis. I find I'm more competitve before or after the comps when the groups runs are going and things are casual but in a way it turns out to be a group comp in some ways. Here are some pics, It's not comp ready anymore, I remvoed the body mounts and body for now until I choose a new body. I kind of like running it without a body.

Side note: I do long range FPV RC and lately, i've been running my vrd FPV. Very fun.



I thought the aluminum may have been a gram or two heavier, but that was just holding them in my hand.
My aluminum plate weighed .4g more than the plastic plate, you can feel the differnce despite it bieng slight. It's really negligible.
 
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