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Wheely King Axle Breakdown pics

ok I'm to lazy to open my WK axle (well until i get my front 4wd parts) does anyone have a pic of its innereds... (front half of cover off.. diff, bearings and axles still in back half)... if so could you post it up.... thanks
 
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HauntFreaks.com said:
PERFECT!!.... thanks!!... great tips as well...

My main reason for asking was I wanted to see if the axles road on bearings...
Click to expand...

Yep, small bearings out at the end of the housing, before the hubs. I believe they are mostly there to keep crud out of the axle housing.
 
do you think if you could have had the end of the 1/4" rod machined to fit in to the diff like the stock axles do, it would be better??... or do you feel your setup is stronger?... I ask this because if machining it would be better I would do so at a friends machine shop.... whats your opinion??
 
HauntFreaks.com said:
do you think if you could have had the end of the 1/4" rod machined to fit in to the diff like the stock axles do, it would be better??... or do you feel your setup is stronger?... I ask this because if machining it would be better I would do so at a friends machine shop.... whats your opinion??
Click to expand...

I answered your question before you asked.... "thumbsup"
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51121

We're also discussing it in this thread:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66124

Wanna talk about it there to keep it together?
 
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I just realized tonight that when switching to the Hardened gears it switches your pinion from stock 6mm to 5mm output. So if you are planning on switching to hardened gears later you will have to switch drive shafts as well. I bought Revo shafts and am going to have to go back to 5mm Tmax shafts.

Just an FYI"thumbsup"
 
clarkrw3 said:
I just realized tonight that when switching to the Hardened gears it switches your pinion from stock 6mm to 5mm output. So if you are planning on switching to hardened gears later you will have to switch drive shafts as well. I bought Revo shafts and am going to have to go back to 5mm Tmax shafts.

Just an FYI"thumbsup"
Click to expand...

I figured that would be an issue, and I've been waiting for someone to try it..... Looks like you get to be the Guinea pig?

The hardened pinion shaft doesn't have flats on it either. Does the Revo shaft still slip on, but it's sloppy? Can you still put in the cross pin/screw? Can you then fill the voids on each side with something, like plastic chunks or JB weld?
 
swhenrik said:
I figured that would be an issue, and I've been waiting for someone to try it..... Looks like you get to be the Guinea pig?

The hardened pinion shaft doesn't have flats on it either. Does the Revo shaft still slip on, but it's sloppy? Can you still put in the cross pin/screw? Can you then fill the voids on each side with something, like plastic chunks or JB weld?
Click to expand...

It has one flat side but not two and doesn't have a hole...which makes it hard being that it is a "hardened" shaft that is harder to drill through. I think what I am going to do is use the Jato shafts with the metal ends and since I am using a R2 trans I will just take off the 6mm adapters I picked up from RC4WD and go back to 5mm-5mm which is fine.
I just wanted people to know that the hardened gears are different and that they are not 6mm like stock.
 
clarkrw3 said:
I just realized tonight that when switching to the Hardened gears it switches your pinion from stock 6mm to 5mm output. So if you are planning on switching to hardened gears later you will have to switch drive shafts as well. I bought Revo shafts and am going to have to go back to 5mm Tmax shafts.

Just an FYI"thumbsup"
Click to expand...

RC4WD sells adapters that converts the 5mm to 6mm and one from 6mm to 5mm. They are listed at $8.99.
 
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JIA's Dad said:
RC4WD sells adapters that converts the 5mm to 6mm and one from 6mm to 5mm. They are listed at $8.99.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yes i purchased two of the 5mm to 6mm adapters to convert my R2 to 6mm to match the wk axle outputs. However, when switching to hardened gears the axles become 5mm outputs. So rather then getting more 5-6 adaptors to convert the axles back to 6mm I am just going to have both at 5mm and use Jato shafts rather than the revo ones......make sense???
 
I didn't notice the flat in any pics, but it makes sense, the set screw in the metal drive cup needs something to press against. Making a second flat would be semi easy with a dremel with a stone on it (and some patience), but a cross pin would still be necessary. Drilling the hardened gear does sounds like a problem.

Ahh yes... running a R2 tranny would make the Jato shafts more appealing. Or run T-Maxx tranny output yokes (5mm) on both ends of the Maxx shafts? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDT2&P=Z
 
For the hardened gears which are 5mm output and to the R2 trans I have found that these traxxas part numbers work great!!!

4927X times 2
4951X

Very nice beefy shafts and perfect lenth"thumbsup""thumbsup"


clarkrw3 said:
Thanks. Yes i purchased two of the 5mm to 6mm adapters to convert my R2 to 6mm to match the wk axle outputs. However, when switching to hardened gears the axles become 5mm outputs. So rather then getting more 5-6 adaptors to convert the axles back to 6mm I am just going to have both at 5mm and use Jato shafts rather than the revo ones......make sense???
Click to expand...
 
I've built a number of WK axled rigs since I created this thread. It is a general assumption that the WK axles are better suited to larger vehicles...like 1/6 scale, etc.

Check it out...

TLT axle on top with Blackfoot stub axles (Something we do to get a little extra track width and make the rigs more stable in an off-camber situation) and Pede fronts. Width: 10.25"

WK axle on bottom with double-narrowed Pede rears. Width: 10.25"

tltwk.jpg


Now...which of those two will have better steering force at the tires with the same servo? It won't be the TLT. "thumbsup"
 
After all this time, what is the best option for stronger ring/pinion and axles for the WK? I ordered the Integy Heavy duty gears, the details said they were direct fit but after intalling them I found out the stock axles will NOT work with it. You have to use the Integy cvd's with the crosspin. So for two sets of gears and 2 sets of cvd's thats over $80. Seems like alot. I also broke an axle after half of a 4600mah 6 cell nimh just like in the picture earlier in this thread. Sucks its so easy to break, but nice that it took 2 min to replace it after I got another one. Anybody having any luck with the alum tranny gears too? I'm putting a Traxxas VXL system in it so it will need to be strong. Thanks, T.
 
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